SeaFoam motor treatment in vacuum lines. M1009

[CycleJay]

Hi guys,

Since putting SeaFoam in my fuel tank after my last fill-up, I have noticed a change for the better.

So I would also like to run it thru my vacuum lines to clean that system too.
But the instructions on the can do not explain how other than to say use a little at a time.

So How do I introduce a can of SeaFoam into my vacuum lines?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thank you..

 

[gimpyrobb]

I'm not sure how to do that, but it IS a wonderful fuel treatment. I have heard it says its ok to add it to oil, I would recommend against that idea.

 

[CycleJay]

Thanks for the post.
It seems to be a wonderful fuel treatment... My truck runs better..
But on the can, it says you can add it to your crankcase as an oil treatment too..

Just my $0.02 cents...

 

[cpf240]

Treating an engine with Seafoam via the vacuum lines is only intended for gasoline-powered engines that actually generate a vacuum.

The idea is to pull off a vacuum line from something like the brake booster and stick it in the bottle of Seafoam while the engine is running. This will draw the Seafoam into the intake system.

The vacuum system in the CUCV is only for the operation of the automatic transmission, and does not enter the engine at any point. All it would do is run through the vacuum pump, possibly causing damage to it.

Don't do it.

Add it to the oil a few hundred miles before you change the oil. Add it to the fuel tank. Do not put it into the vacuum system.

 

[CycleJay]

Hello CPF,

Ok, no worries. Based on your advice and information I will NOT put it into my M1009's vacuum lines.
Period, end of story.

That is all I needed to know.

Thank you again, you have just saved me from causing damage to my 1009.

And I will remember to add it to my oil a few hundred miles before my next oil change.

Good night...

 

[gimpyrobb]

Thanks for the post.
It seems to be a wonderful fuel treatment... My truck runs better..
But on the can, it says you can add it to your crankcase as an oil treatment too..

Just my $0.02 cents...

I know, thats why I said it was a bad idea. A member here put some in his oil and 5min later, his (deuce)turbo seized. I think anything other than oil, is not smart.

 

[cpf240]

I know, thats why I said it was a bad idea. A member here put some in his oil and 5min later, his (deuce)turbo seized. I think anything other than oil, is not smart.

I've added it to the oil of my M1009, and driven it for several hundred miles before preforming an oil change. I don't have a turbo, so can't speak to that, and I have not torn down the engine to see if there was any other damage. I did read many posts from users of Seafoam in the oil, and did not come across any problems. Some people said they would add it to the oil, drive around the block, and then do the oil change. At least one post I read said they use it all the time in their fleet vehicles and leave it in there. The Seafoam can lists adding to the oil as an application of the product, and I would think they would not list it if they got lots of bills from damaged engines.

I will say that a lot of goop came out when I did change the oil after running the Seafoam. My plan is to add it again before the next oil change and see how things look.

As they say "correlation does not equal causation".

Of course, your mileage may vary!

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I know, thats why I said it was a bad idea. A member here put some in his oil and 5min later, his (deuce)turbo seized. I think anything other than oil, is not smart.

Here's what probably happened: His engine was pretty gunked up, and he used a generous amount of Seafoam. The Seafoam did what it's supposed to do, and started dissolving the gunk. A chunk of gunk broke off and plugged the line to the turbo. End of turbo.

Either that, or it was pure coincidence, which is also a real possibility.


If your engine is really gunked up, you have to be VERY careful about how you clean it out. Short interval oil changes are the safest way to do it.

The problem of breaking off gunk chunks is very real, and is the reason that all of the auto manufacturers recommend AGAINST doing engine flushes.

 

[scottladdy]

My . Please, this is not intended to offend anyone. Just sharing my perspective. If you want to use a particular product, or choose not to, please realize that is always your choice. I am just sharing my thought process on these types of things.

To my way of thinking, anecdotes and opinions have their place. People have reported near miracles using Seafoam, and complete destruction. Some report no discernible difference from the before and after. I always look to see meaningful, structured, scientifically based testing to back up any products claims. When I see such a range of experiences for a product, I rely even more on this type of testing.

My concern with Seafoam is that I have yet to find this rigorous type of testing for this product. In addition, when I see statements like the following in their technical section, I seriously begin to question what engineering science is behind the product.

"Sea Foam Motor Treatment is petroleum based, NOT A CHEMICAL!"

Sounds good, but what does it mean? Diesel and Gasoline are chemical "concoctions". Motor oil is a chemical concoction. So, my next step is to look at the MSDS, located here: http://www.seafoamsales.com/271-msdsseafoamen.html

It shows three chemicals:
Pale Oil - Based on the CAS number it is considered Paraffin oil (essentially diesel)
Naptha - Also known as Coleman or Camp fuel
IPA - Isopropyl alcohol

Based on this, Seafoam appears to be a chemical concoction of solvents/fuels blended into a diesel carrier base. The companies claim is that it is "petroleum based", which appears to be true. But it also contains IPA, also known as 'wood alcohol'.

So, based on this, I see SeaFoam as a solvent, that because of IPA's ability to form an azeotrope with water has some water "absorbing" properties.

Please use accordingly.

(BTW, all of the research conducted for this post took about 10 minutes).

Now I'd like to share how I clean the crankcase of an engine. I have real experience with this method, and it is as safe as an oil change. Because that is exactly what I do.

I use synthetic motor oils exclusively in my engines, as long as they meet the specifications and certifications the engine manufacturer stipulates. Rotella T6 in my diesels.

The synthetic oils I choose are proven to slowly dissolve varnish and sludge build up from "dino" oils. I have inspected inside the crankcase of several engines before and after use. I can attest to the fact that they do clean up. This is through use of a borescope AND before and after oil pan removal. I unfortunately do not have any before/after pictures. I fully realize that to you, this is anecdotal, so please treat accordingly.

Best regards ...

 

[Skinny]

I agree, if you properly maintain the engine and use it at regular intervals...probably not an issue. On something with unknown history you could plug that turbo up and burn the bushings. Not exactly the SeaFoam's issue. I ran into this problem all the time with BG transmission flushes. Older vehicles with very questionable service history never got the full detergent cleaner package because we always worried about messing with a good thing.

I don't even like high mileage motor oils because they contain seal swellers and heavier detergent packages. With an old engine...change the oil...leave well enough alone. Maybe change oil at earlier intervals. Use a good synthetic like it was mentioned above. Keep the fuel system clean.

 

[scottladdy]

... and I would think they would not list it if they got lots of bills from damaged engines.

I think this would be something to be considered if the product had a legally binding guarantee. I may have missed it, but have yet to see a written legally binding document from the manufacturer/distributor stating that they will cover damages caused by use of their product.

To me, this is another point of concern.

In comparison: http://www.shell.com/rotella/warranty.html

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I always look to see meaningful, structured, scientifically based testing to back up any products claims. When I see such a range of experiences for a product, I rely even more on this type of testing.

Okay, that's just weird.





ANECDOTE ALERT: I have used Seafoam in the oil, and quickly developed oil leaks that I did not have before.



I may try it as a parts cleaner one of these days....

 

[scottladdy]

Expensive Parts Cleaner

I may try it as a parts cleaner one of these days....

Now that sounds like expensive cleaner! On sale around here it is $7 or so a can before tax.

Maybe try mixing up your own batch : Diesel is less than $5 a gallon (thankfully). IPA can be had at wallyworld as ISO Heat in 99% form for a buck a pint or so (less on sale). And Coleman (the real Coleman) fuel is $10 a gallon at the local hardware.

Use the MSDS for the ratio, and voila! Flammable parts cleaner.

If you do try it, please let us know how it works. It may be worth the cost if it performs well.

By the way, the TM's reference using Dry Cleaning fluid as a parts cleaner. Dry Cleaning fluid = Stoddard Solvent = Naptha = Coleman Fuel = ... That stuff makes great parts cleaner, but only outdoors with a fire extinguisher nearby.

 

[scottladdy]

ANECDOTE ALERT: I have used Seafoam in the oil, and quickly developed oil leaks that I did not have before.

Just guessing, but I bet the naptha dissolved what was left of the wiper surfaces on the old seals.

What did you do to resolve?

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

What did you do to resolve?

I junked the truck!


Actually, I ran it that way for another year, and then the trans went blooey. It was old and tired and I needed a bigger truck anyway, so I got rid of it.

 

[mobileauto2000]

Never put solvents into crankcase oil!

Most of the time it hurts nothing, but it can take out an engine.

If your engine is well maintained it does not need cleaning!

If it actually has deposits that need removing you defiantly don't want to add solvents to the oil.

Solvents will break the deposits loose to fast and they can plug the oil filter forcing it to bypass and all that crud will go through your bearings. It can also plug your pickup screen.

The very nature of a solvent is to break down oil. Never ever ever ever drive a vehicle if you do put any solvent into the oil. The oil may break down to the point that you start getting metal to metal contact with your bearings.

Instead shorten oil change intervals and use a synthetic oil or substitute a quart of automatic transmission fluid for one quart of oil.

This adds more detergent will remove the gunk slowly over several oil changes and not harm anything.

Also diesel engines rarely get gunked up to start with unless you blow a head gasket. Gunkin' tends to be a gas engine thing.