Winch experts: secrets to getting a secure cable/lock nut connection

[Rebar]

The winch cable was pulled out of the chain connector lock nut on GL acquired M817. Finally got the locknut loose. What are the secrets to getting a secure connection? Do I pass the lock nut up on the cable end, put the anvil in the base and then just tighten it down? How far do you push the cable through to get it locked by the anvil and nut assembly? I have never done this before and cannot find a page describing procedure in TM. Obviously this is critical step if I ever want to have a functioning winch on M817. Any tips would be appreciated.


Rebar

 

[doghead]

Search "esmet".

We have posted this info before.

 

[doghead]

Look at the last post here. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?18826-Winch-cable-clevis-installation&highlight=esmet

 

[Rebar]

Outstanding. I didn't even know enough about winches to search the right terms.

Really appreciate the help!

 

[marchplumber]

Informative thread! Haven't had to take mine apart, but now with this info save via pdf, if I ever do, it's there! THANKS!
God bless,
Tony

 

[m16ty]

You don't have to have the special tools to assemble one. It is a pain in the rear though.

I've done it on a deuce and I'd imagine a 5-ton would be that much harder.

 

[Rebar]

No doubt it will be a pain. That is why I am asking for "tips" on reducing the pain.

 

[73m819]

I did mine on my m819, it was not to bad, use anti-seize on the threads, I also used it on the wedge, BIG wrenchs really help

 

[Csm Davis]

I have done a few and have talked to the engineer at Esmet they recommend to replace the plug each time and the thimble if damaged. I replace both they are not high priced and feel better about the termination, less chance of failure.

 

[m16ty]

The hardest part is getting the wires bent over the plug where they will stay so you can get the nut started. It just takes time (and a little cussing).

 

[Rebar]

Where do you buy new plug and thimble?

 

[73m819]

The hardest part is getting the wires bent over the plug where they will stay so you can get the nut started. It just takes time (and a little cussing).

Use a hose clamp

 

[73m819]

Where do you buy new plug and thimble?

http://www.esmet.com/electroline.html

 

[Rebar]

A hose clamp. Outstanding. That is the kind of "trick" I was hoping for! Thanks to all of you!

 

[zebedee]

Originally Posted by m16tyThe hardest part is getting the wires bent over the plug where they will stay so you can get the nut started.

It just takes time (and a little cussing).
Use a hose clamp

The optional installing kit/tool they sell has a punch with a hole at the other end that you can use to bend over the strands past the plug. I used needle nose pliers and a hose clamp like Ron said. Just make sure that you can see the cable ends through the little inspection hole when you are done - it ensures you pushed enough past the plug.

 

[Neophyte]

Been there, done that.....not to bad of a fix. TM does a good job explaining how to reassemble.

 

[Bighurt]

How does one proof load?

Not the actual procedure but to what percent and with what apposing force?

 

[zebedee]

Proof load - the correct way is to use a load cell. Look up your local crane company - they have to recertify annually(? - Ron...) and when ever doing repair work so you may be able to stop by or ask at a decent rigging supply Co - they may be able to rent one out for the day.

As far as opposing force - back up between two big trees, strap the rear to one and winch off of the other with the cell at the tree strap - you will need at lease one other person to read the cell as you increase the pull from the truck. But don't dump the clutch or you'll break the shear pin - all you need do is feather the clutch slowly 'till the load you want is reached then stop.

Alternatively, you can use a snatch block up a tree and down to something you know the weight of - ie., front of another truck knowing its FAW (front axle weight) - if that is enough.
Recovery manuals do give factors for ground type, grade, amount of immobility etc., so you could go get something stuck then calculate the factors to come up with the load you for winching - but these are guides and not precise.

As far as percent - I'd go to the load that the winch is rated for or all the way to the correct shear pin breaking if you have a spare. Then you know what you have.

Hope this helps.