Headlights on, Headlights off, on, off, on, off .......

[gimpyrobb]

I found a great step-by-step for opening up the 3 lever switch. Rebuilding an m-series 3-lever master light switch

I have seen that. If your switch is NEW, you will probably be SOL. The new switches can not be taken apart. If its a metal case, you might get lucky.

 

[davemccoull]

Being in u.k. i changed sealed beam units to uk halogen units ( better lights and they dip the right way), i then had problems with lights tripping out, due to extra load of halogen bulbs, knowing the breaker in the switch can go weak i replaced switch which cured problem. if it happens again a relay needs to be fitted
Dave

 

[crazywelder72]

I have seen that. If your switch is NEW, you will probably be SOL. The new switches can not be taken apart. If its a metal case, you might get lucky.

Mine is aluminum. After reading this i was considering putting it in my Bridgeport and slotting around the edge to part it. However I have the switch infront of me now and using a hook tool i removed the silicon on the back and there is a phillips head screw.

I'll keep you posted.

 

[crazywelder72]

This is sweet.... After you remove the back cover and fumble with the O-Ring, remove the front levers, then inside there are 3 small Phillips screws. After you remove them it pops right out.

It's a 20A circuit breaker and easy swap. Off to the electronics store to try to match it up or i'll order it online probably from Digi-Key.

 

[crazywelder72]

I have seen that. If your switch is NEW, you will probably be SOL. The new switches can not be taken apart. If its a metal case, you might get lucky.

Gimpyrobb, do I get bonus points for doing the impossible?

 

[Gun Goober]

Does this same relay work for the dash lights? All my electricals work great except the dash lights. None of them work with new bulbs or the switch in any position.

 

[crazywelder72]

I got a new breaker at Autozone for $3.95. This repair is a riot.

Now that I know what pin the breaker is on I think I will add a inline fuse out side the switch to protect the breaker from a fatal hit.

I think a 25 amp fuse will allow the 20A breaker do its job but pop with any over surge. Any electrical engineers out here wish to chime in?

 

[crazywelder72]

I got a new breaker at Autozone for $3.95. This repair is a riot.

Now that I know what pin the breaker is on I think I will add a inline fuse out side the switch to protect the breaker from a fatal hit.

I think a 25 amp fuse will allow the 20A breaker do its job but pop with any over surge. Any electrical engineers out here wish to chime in?

 

[crazywelder72]

OOPS I caught myself. The part i bought is a 12 volt breaker. I am waiting to hear from napa for a 24 volt. but i did find it online for $8 at circuit breakers 12 volt to 48 volt heavy duty dc circuit Protection 10 to 300 amp.

 

[steelandcanvas]

Does this same relay work for the dash lights? All my electricals work great except the dash lights. None of them work with new bulbs or the switch in any position.

You could have a wiring or grounding issue. Do your gauges work?

 

[panheadric]

I also have a similar question , with my head lights off my tail lights work ( 70 m35a2) ,when I turn the headlights on the running / brake lights go out, turn signals still work in both positions . I have non-stock tail lights ,just bought the deuce last week. thinking maybe bad 3 lever switch or bad ground ? I'm new to this so any answers is helpful.
thanks

 

[crazywelder72]

I am not a wiz at this yet but the brake lights should work in the stop light position. The head lights will not have power during this and its normal for a convoy. When it's in "service drive" the headlights and running lights and brake lights should work.

I would look into the wiring at the non stock tail lights. i would disconnect them and probe them with a multi meter and see if they have the proper power without the lights connected. If the problem is still present you know the after market lights are not the problem, then you can start looking at the switch. These 3 lever switches are not cheap. About 60 bucks on average.

 

[crazywelder72]

Oh, BTW..... Welcome to the forum.

 

[dodgedougak]

Steelandcanvas mentioned my thought. My lights were going on and off, turned out to be ground wire that grounds to the frame near the radiator. It was broken at the terminal, making occasional contact. As my old engine shop teacher said "it's the ground, it's always the (*^%*_)(* ground!" Except when it is the circuit breaker, of course?

 

[crazywelder72]

That's funny. Flickering lights are always a ground. No lights is usually a broken connector or something stupid. Have you checked to see that all the bulbs are not burnt out? Or the spider harness is connected?

 

[mobileauto2000]

OOPS I caught myself. The part i bought is a 12 volt breaker. I am waiting to hear from napa for a 24 volt. but i did find it online for $8 at circuit breakers 12 volt to 48 volt heavy duty dc circuit Protection 10 to 300 amp.

Amps is amps. Voltage does not matter. you can use the one you bought.

 

[crazywelder72]

Thanks for the vote of confidence. I actually already installed the one I bought figuring the worst case scenario it would pop instantly. It didn't so it's staying in.

However i still need to track down the blinker short. I think I will have to open up the connector to check there.

 

[Gun Goober]

You could have a wiring or grounding issue. Do your gauges work?

Thanks for the reply. Yes, the guages work fine. all the other lighting around the truck work well. Just no dash lights and no "front wheel engaged" light.

(72 M109 A3)

 

[3twelve]

Has anyone had a problem with the high/low switch on the floor. My head lights go on and off but if I kick the switch the lights work.

 

[steelandcanvas]

Has anyone had a problem with the high/low switch on the floor. My head lights go on and off but if I kick the switch the lights work.

Check the switch connections under the floor.