M1008 starting problem when warm?!!

[dozenjeeps]

Thanks, I thought it was the correct IP (4502) but not positive, whats the possibility of buying a new temp sensor and trying that?? when the engine cools down it will start right up... thanks for the help.........

 

[ryan77]

Put a hummer pump in! I put one my last m1009 thing ran great!

 

[epartsman]

Thanks, I thought it was the correct IP (4502) but not positive, whats the possibility of buying a new temp sensor and trying that?? when the engine cools down it will start right up... thanks for the help.........

A glow plug temp sensor may help but not likely. Locate it, check your wiring, and make sure it's connected. Make sure you test your IP with the water first and make sure during the no start condition you are getting fuel at the injectors by undoing one of the lines with a 3/4 wrench at the injector. Then I highly suggest converting your GP system to 12V eliminating the 24V resistor (simple conversion) which will prevent the cascade failure that can occur. The likelihood that it is a GP problem when warm is not very high as diesel fires on high compression not spark and a hot engine does not need the GP system to fire provided you have proper compression. The temp sender actually turns off the GP system at the proper temp. Glow plugs are only necessary at cold start. The manual switch idea, although has its merits, can lead to GP failure and swelling due to holding the button too long. A swollen GP can be a nightmare to remove.
My truck has a fresh 4502 in it which is military spec and it runs flawlessly with plenty of power.

 

[dozenjeeps]

Thanks for the advice epartsman, I am actually heading down to Florida to go to the Bellview military show......I go every year and love it......I will try your advice when I get back home as its a pretty bad snowstorm today and the truck is not in the heated shop!.....really appreciate all the help from SS members..........

 

[Militia1776]

I've been dealing with the same issue .. I'm really trying fix this with as little money as possible IP's ain't cheap these days. I know that the fuel shut off might cause this issue if I have researched right. I have shot the pink wire on top of the IP and when the key is in the run position and running I only get 10v. I started the motor (when cold) and pulled the pink wire off (motor shut off) I can hear clicking when I put the wire on an off. Is 10v enough to open the fuel shut off when warm? Is there a possible short in the wire to cause it to be weak? Any help is greatly needed thanks

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

If you are hearing it clicking, then I'd have to say 10v is enough. But maybe it's marginal so won't work under some conditions.

No, a short won't cause low voltage. Corrosion somewhere sure will.

 

[dozenjeeps]

I finally took my truck to a diesel mechanic, and he felt the starter was going out....ordered a heavy duty starter and she has been starting all the time, but its finally warm in Wisconsin so maybe it still will not start in the winter......won't know for a little while!!! good luck.........

 

[Militia1776]

Awesome thanks! I will chase the wire and see if I can't clean it up some. My next issue is the part number for the IP I have no clue which one to use in my truck since it looks like the IP is the culprit of my no start when warm issue. This is what I have looked into all of these are for the 84-87 CUCV
-4267 '84 HD CUCV
-4309 HD CUCV
-4386 HD '84 CUCV (1.2cSt)
-4520 '86-'87 HD CUCV
-4521 '86 CUCV (1.2cSt) this on is in the TM

From what I have read the 1.2cSt is for arctic conditions and will run "thicker" fuel i.e. kerosene, JP-8 and 5.

I currently have a 4425 on the 6.2 in my truck which is a light duty (LD) pump. I have seen posts about 4502 (LD C/K truck) 8th vin # "C"and a 4544 (HD C/K truck) 8th vin # "J" .. So many numbers I don't know where to begin. I would like to put original parts in it but its not a must. The truck is my daily driver and I want to make sure that I'm getting the right one and have it replaced and up and running over the weekend.

 

[Keith_J]

I finally took my truck to a diesel mechanic, and he felt the starter was going out....ordered a heavy duty starter and she has been starting all the time, but its finally warm in Wisconsin so maybe it still will not start in the winter......won't know for a little while!!! good luck.........

Ouch, that was expensive. What was going out in the starter were the brushes. A $13 kit off ebay cured the starter on a friend's 1009. Took me all of an hour to pull, disassemble and overhaul. The brushes were chipped on the corners, glazed and heat damaged. Heat causes the resistance to increase in the commutator, causing lower turnover speed which makes the engine harder to start.

This kit also has bushings, a 1/4 NPT pipe tap can be used to remove the nose bushing. The tail bushing comes out easily. Grease the bushings, clean the commutator and rest of the starter guts while you are at it. No need to replace brush holders if the original ones are not damaged, the Bakelite doesn't decompose unless exposed to oil.

 

[daniel.7575]

Hi there,

My 1008 has needed 3-4 attempts before starting from cold and I guessed the fuel was draining back somewhere , found loose fuel clip and tightened but while I had the air filter pan off the intake I noticed fuel dripping from the side of the IP and I think this is my problem. Do I need to swap this out for a new unit or is it an easy fix? I'm in the UK and no fuel injection shops will touch stanadyne pumps round here.. Anyone know of anywhere here that could overhaul I or do I just replace it? I guess it has to come off either way? I changed one on my 1009 a few years ago but I remember it being quite involved.. Any advice would be great.. Sorry for hijacking the thread..

 

[Keith_J]

Throttle shaft seal is leaking, Daniel. It can be replaced without pulling the IP or intake manifold. You should be able to search here to find out how and where to get the seal. Just need to be handy with tools.

Yes, a leaking case will cause starting issues, there is a vane pump which boosts the pressure inside the pump, filling the plungers which is how the high pressure injection happens. With a leak, the vane pump has trouble creating this boosted pressure which reduces the injected quantity.

 

[daniel.7575]

Hi Keith,

thanks for the info, that looks to be exactly what is leaking.. I've had a search around the site and come across others with the same problem... Most suggestions are to swap out the IP. Do you have more info on the seal swap, how to go about this and where to obtain the seal? Here in the UK there is nothing available it seems..

Thanks,

Daniel.

 

[daniel.7575]

Hi again,

quick update...

Got an IP seal kit... Removed the air filter and housing to get at the IP and needed to remove the inlet manifold to slide out the throttle shaft. Changing two O rings located on the shaft done the trick and now no more leaks!

HOWEVER.... This did not sort out the starting problem... Fitting a non return valve didn't help either... In the end a new starter motor cured the issue!

A big thanks to Rod at Marltrax for the advice and spare parts, and all the work done on my deuce too by the way.. She's never run so well!

 

[MakersTeleMark]

How long did it take to replace the throttle shaft seals and does the vendor you mentioned sell the kit?

Thanks for posting the result.

 

[daniel.7575]

Job took about 4 hours in total.. The seal kit came from Thomas Diesels in the UK who are main stanadyne importer here.

www.thomasautos.co.uk (+44(0)1233642816

They were very helpful though I had to order the kit from my local prefered supplier who added their % on. The seal kit cost just over $100! I only used the 2 O rings and the cap seal. And new inlet gaskets.

completed a 500 mile round trip to the war&peace revival show