Safe to leave key in on position?

[gixxsta04]

My radio on my m1009 is wired to ignition power. Is it safe to turn the key to the ON position to listen to the radio with the truck not running? Will this continue to cycle the glow plugs or burn up my GP board?

 

[alburms311]

I'm in the same boat, but I'm considering rewiring. You will burn your plugs up leaving it turned to the on position, not sure about the board. Some guys on here have ignitions that when turned to ACC position, slots in the fuse panel are hot so they wired to them, but mine does not have that.

 

[RedneckMilenko]

I would just re-wire. My plan is wire mine through a kill switch. That way I don't have to worry about physically turning off my radio every time I get out of my truck being as I will be flipping the killswitch for the starting system anyway out of habbit.

 

[scottladdy]

Maximum Time for Key in "RUN" position

Check the TM's under diagnostic procedures. 2 minutes maximum when performing tests.

CAUTION
Do not leave key in “RUN” position for more than 2 minutes for any
electrical system test. Failure to follow this caution may result in damage
to glow plugs.
​

 

[scottladdy]

Accessory Position and Wiring Suggestions

I'm in the same boat, but I'm considering rewiring. You will burn your plugs up leaving it turned to the on position, not sure about the board. Some guys on here have ignitions that when turned to ACC position, slots in the fuse panel are hot so they wired to them, but mine does not have that.

Search the forum on this. Plenty of information on accessory position.

To test your truck, push in on the key and carefully rotate counter clockwise. I am fairly confident these all came with the accessory position available, as part numbers indicate such. Wiring diagram also shows that wipers are hot when in accessory position. Issues I see with obtaining accessory position include wear on lock cylinder and key or a poorly cut key. Could be all gummed up as well after so many years. I have been successful at obtaining accessory position in every truck I've tried so far. I just had to be a little more deliberate occasionally.

You can tap into the wiper fuse with a piggyback fuse holder that taps into the wiper circuit. I would wire a relay into that circuit that would energize a tap directly off the front battery and feed a separate fuse block to power additional accessories like a radio. A 6 position fuse block should be plenty. Make certain you utilize a fused tap and a wire gauge sufficient to carry whatever load you plan.

Remember that your Black Out service light switch will cut power to a lot of circuits. That is why I wired my stereo memory directly to the tap off the front battery. Now I don't have to re-program my presets every time I show off the BO lights.

 

[jgb680]

The CUCV factory ignition switch did not have an accessory setting. If your CUCVs have had an accessory setting the ignition switch has been changed out at some point with a civilian GM switch

 

[edpdx]

I pulled my ignition cylinder to see why it would not rotate CCW to the ACC position. I found that these OEM cylinders were pinned so that the key turned and hit the pin (Roll pin) and would go no further. I replaced my cylinder with one from Azone; but as I look at the original, one would simply need to remove the roll pin to allow it to turn Counter Clock-wise as needed to ACC. After you do this, you can add a piggyback fuse from the wipers fuse, and combine it to run an auxiliary fuse panel. Search this forum for the details. I'd keep the OEM cylinder, pull the pin to keep it near OEM. It kinda sucks having two keys. These little bastardizations add up.

 

[PAm1009]

This is true my 1009 has this

 

[cpf240]

The accessory position is depicted in the -10 TM, though I don't think it is referenced in the text.

My M1009 does have the accessory position, and I don't see any evidence that the cylinder has been changed, or that the column has ever been taken apart.

 

[alburms311]

I guess I should have worded my answer differently. My ignition will turn to acc, I do not have or have not found an empty slot that gets power while in this position. I forgot about the piggy back fuse on the wiper, thanks for reminding me, that what I was referring to others using.

 

[donalloy1]

The CUCV factory ignition switch did not have an accessory setting. If your CUCVs have had an accessory setting the ignition switch has been changed out at some point with a civilian GM switch

Thanks for clarification jgb680! I have tried to get mine to go to ACC position many times. Your direction should stop me from doing so anymore. LOL Lots of mixed messages on this subject here!

 

[Warthog]

Just to clarify.

The original CUCV cylinders have a pin the keys them from rotating to the ACC position. This was installed by GM per the military contract (a guess as I have never seen the contract)

Removing the pin or replacing the cylinder will give you the ACC postition.

Because of the waythe CUCV fuse box is wired, the only "hot" fuse controlled by the ACC is the wiper.

That circuit is NOT up to the task of controlling anything more than the wipers.

If you want to use the ACC to control anything else, then you need to piggyback off the circuit and feed power to a relay to energize an "add-on" fusebox.

Read this thread - http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?82247-My-new-ignition-switch-has-an-accessory-stop-but


Confussed now?

 

[Recovry4x4]

Wonder if there was an MWO. Both of my trucks came from DOD and have the acc position. The ignition switch is shared with many civy vehicles. I even have a source of NOS lock cylinders and they rotate back.

 

[cpf240]

I don't know anything about this pin in the lock cylinder that prevents going to the ACC position, as mine works and does not look like it has been changed. I presume people are pushing the key and the outer ring of the cylinder in before attempting to turn it back to the ACC position, which seems to be the normal way these things worked for the era these were built?

 

[Warthog]

I don't have the TMs available right now. What does the -10 say about when the wipers will work?

Maybe the first trucks had the pin and GM supplied replacements without it. Pure speculation at this point in the game.

 

[cpf240]

I only see the ACC position shown in the picture of the key positions, but no mention in the text that I could find other than "won't work with ignition off".

 

[edpdx]

I have to correct my initial post/observation (#7) I had a chance to take a closer look at my cylinder with the roll pin. Here is a picture of it. You can see where it was pulled from the original cylinder (73Y2) as stamped. Once I pulled the pin, I found I was still unable to rotate backward to the "ACC" position (B). Now it is my guess that the roll pin was placed there as a positive steel cam stop to keep the pot metal from wearing to the point that the key will go past the extraction point and bind -just my guess. I place the roll pin back in the hole and begin wiggling the key from side-to-side while pumping it in and out as well. I am not certain if that is the trick, or if the ACC position was bound up from no use before I took ownership of the M1009. I soon found that the secret to getting my cylinder to turn to the ACC position was to pump the key in-and-out two or three times while rotating toward ACC. I now suspect the twin detents between the cylinder body and keyway trim are getting hung-up in a worn detent ridge.

 

[Mainsail]

I managed, with a lot of wiggling, pushing, twisting, and grunting, to get mine into the accessory position and the wipers worked. So there you go.

 

[Skinny]

I plan on taking the ground control for the GP solenoid at the controller card and splicing in a switch. I am going to use one with a momentary on, off, and on position. This will give me GP bypass manual control, no GP's, and normal modes. That way you can keep the key on without the GP's on.

 

[edpdx]

Skinny, why? The cards are hard to come by, and somewhat delicate to be messing with when there is an ACC position. True, you'll have to add a fuse box; but that is pretty easy, and you can restore it to OEM at will. Besides, the whole purpose of having an ACC position to run a radio/com is so you don't accidentally leave the radio running- take your keys, the radio shuts of- no run down battery. If you forget to turn the GP toggle OFF just once, you can fry an expensive part and be stranded. Think about how many time you've looked at a gauge to find your blinker still on. Just saying ...