Rusty nuts and bolts

[misupratwin]

Hi everyone, I have been reading throught threads, Researching about my M37 project and I have noticed that some have trouble removing rusted nuts and bolts or screws,or broken ones. I have been a ASE master certified auto technician for 20 years, I worked at a GM dearlership for 15 years and have owned my own shop for 8 years, So i thought i would offer what works for me.

I live in Michigan, we use salt for everthing, so everything is rusty, ok extremly rusty.

The method I used to remove all my rusty nuts, bolts, screws is to use a torch, First heat the nut, bolt , screw until it is red hot then cool it completely with water. Most times i can take them out with my fingers. Another method is to heat them up and use parafin wax.

I have removed nuts that were paper thin using the water method, broken studs in heads and exhaust manifolds. On my M37 I have had only one broken windshield screw not come out.

I hope this helps someone some frustration, I hope this is useful, and not offensive. Thank you , Tim

 

[Artisan]

Tim can you explain the parafin wax method please?

I will add that "PB BLaster" now sold at Home Depot works well,
espically if a guy can pre-soak the offending hardware a week or
more in advance...

Wax? Teach me bro...

 

[jw4x4]

The best thing (besides heat) and safest is a 50/50 mix of transmission fluid and acetone. This concoction works great.

 

[emr]

PB Blaster is amazing, Kroil is even better, and the trans fluid and actone is said to be the very best yet, i cant wait to use that, But even if third on the list PB is still amazing, The Kroil is like 23 bucks a can around here, its a big spray can, but worth it, Like I said, i cant wait to use the mix, I have a ton of that stuff at the shop I will also try the torch and fast cool down too, Thanks

 

[misupratwin]

Artisan , you just heat the bolt or nut a cool it with the wax as the metal cools it pulls the wax into the threads.Tim

 

[T. Highway]

I found that the cheap birthday cake candles or canning wax work the best when dealing with seized fasteners. Heat the problem bolt or nut up with a torch then touch the wax to it, it will wick in like water.


Bert

 

[Tinwoodsman]

I use the wax method frequently. I still like the fire wrench the best although the colors on the PB Blaster can are purty!!!!

 

[Scarecrow1]

Its a shame the guys in the motor pool didn't ask you for advice. The numb skulls broke off not one but FOUR bolts even with the instrument panel . I am putting off that job for a day when I just need to have a reason to rant and rave about something

 

[swbradley1]

I am putting off that job for a day when I just need to have a reason to rant and rave about something

You need a reason.

 

[Scarecrow1]

LMAO hey I didn't realize you knew me that well .... I stand corrected some thing to (blame) for my ranting

 

[mdmorgan]

The best thing (besides heat) and safest is a 50/50 mix of transmission fluid and acetone. This concoction works great.

I've tried this on a seized up vise, left it submerged for 3 days, only thing I have noticed is the paint fell off and that tranny fluid and acetone don't mix, the tranny fluid will settle out on bottom. It didn't do anything for loosening up any part that was stuck.

 

[jw4x4]

Put it in a metal pump can. Give it a shake and squirt it. Works better than Kriol. there is a thread somewhere on here. Some "Institute of Technology" did tests, measuring torque required to remove rusty fasteners, and this was far and away the best. Some things don't work for everyone.

 

[GUNNY 155]

I am a big fan of Sil-Kroil. A gallon can is about $40.00 so you have a life time supply. The product is much like PB Blaster but also has a silicone bsae which allows it to creep into the threads. Put it on, reapply as needed and let it soak for a couple of days. I had only a few bolts that I had to use heat on in doing my frame off restoration.

 

[snowdad]

Tim, what kind of torch do you use?
Phillip

 

[DUG]

I find that living in Southern California and having a truck that leaks oil eliminates and rusty nuts or bolts. This method won't work for everyone though since it would result in even more over population.

My winch was imported from way down south and rumored to have once belonged to Wreckerman. One of the fill plugs was frozen and refused all attempts to remove. I heated it up with a Home Depot torch and some MAPP gas until it was red. Then I cooled it down with a little rum and coke that I hadn't finished. It came right out.

 

[misupratwin]

Snowdad, I use a Matco brand oxygen-acetylene torch. I have used a mapp gas on a propane torch head (not always enought heat ).

As a side note ,Being a auto mechanic, I don't really get days to remove a broken exhaust manifold bolt, Brake bleeders,etc , On my personal project I Installed electric wipers from a deuce onto my M37 and someone had broken almost every inner windshield bolt off, I just heat and treat (water)out they come. Even worked on the taillight housing bolt that was broke and the battery cable retainer in the bottom of the battery box. I think I have only broken one or two bolts on my truck

The picture is the brake line from the master to the tee on the frame I took it out with a open end wrench after heating it. Hope this helps everyone on there rusty projects.Tim

 

[whatadeuce]

Thank you all for this clarification. I have first learned of the wax method and am going to try it next opportunity.

 

[AN/GRC-46]

I've found the wax method to far and away the best. Remember to work the bolt or nut both ways rather than just trying to unscrew it all at one time.

 

[whatadeuce]

Thank You

 

[steelandcanvas]

I reprinted this in our Club Newsletter last quarter:

Machinist’s Workshop Magazine™ recently published some information on various pene-
trating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. The magazine re-ports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts.
They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
Penetrating Oil .......... Average load*
None ..........................516 pounds
WD-40 ........................238 pounds
PB Blaster ..................214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............127 pounds
Kano Kroil ..................106 pounds
*ATF-Acetone mix........53 pounds *AFT=Automatic Transmission Fluid
The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. The ATF-Acetone mix is the best but you can also use ATF- lacquer thinner 50 - 50 mix.