James Kelly
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- carthage, Missouri
Thanks so much ;O) Have had my M1009 about 3 weeks now and everybody here has been just super ass cool! Thanks again :O)
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It had nothing to do with using latex paint on metal...that is done every day...just not in "cold" weather if you want good results. Here is what the Behr paint can says: "Application"."Apply when air and surface temps are between 50-90 degrees." Furtherdown in that same paragraph it says "After 4 weeks, cured paint film maybe washed with a mild detergent".Bummer. Kind of shows you how latex enamel works on smooth metal surfaces. I've told this story before but I painted a car with it many years ago and a week later the temp dipped below freezing overnight and the paint froze. It peeled off in streamers on my drive to work. My next paint job on that car was oil based enamel applied with a roller.
I used some 150 grit automotive grade sandpaper that my buddy had at his shop and used a DA to speed things up.BP M1009,
When you did your prep work, what type of sand paper did you use to roughen it up, so the paint would stick?
I plan on doing the same thing.. But most of the paint job on it is way too smooth to apply paint, and it stick.
So I need to roughen it up.
Thank you.
CJ, if it is as smooth as you say, I would simply go over it with 220 grit or even 300 or finer wet/dry sandpaper. Babybutt smooth is your friend here, not your enemy. You do need to wipe it all down with a degreaser though as well, but latex is even very forgiving on that. The latex paint will still have some texture to it even if you spray it and if you roll it, it will definitely have texture to it. So you are comfortable with that, drop the tailgate and practice on the inside of it. You have to remember that nobody is going for a 6" away appearance of a show quality high gloss paint job here...that's why we get by with $100 in paint, prep hours and the satisfaction of having done it yourself. Good luck.When you did your prep work, what type of sand paper did you use to roughen it up, so the paint would stick?
I plan on doing the same thing.. But most of the paint job on it is way too smooth to apply paint, and it stick.
So I need to roughen it up.
There ya go folks, excellent advice on prep!!! Paint problems are usually traced back to prep and conditions when applying in some form or another. Thanks MWMULES.I have been using house paint for years on my MV's and the best results as far as bonding go are on top of rough CARC that has been degreased and power washed. When I have repainted a truck that a Fire Dept had put a gloss automotive paint on, the bonding is not as good, seems to take forever to get a hard finish. When I get one like that I now wipe the whole thing down with scotch pad and lacquer thinner, then scuff it, wash with PSP then power wash before paint. Any rusted areas get sanded then covered with an oil based primer and given a few days to cure. Always wait till the metal and air temp are above 50 and no rain or heavy dew are forecast-ed for a week if outdoors.![]()
Agreed. I wouldn't want to wet sand the previous finish to a smooth texture when using house paint over it. Unlike an automotive finish, the house paint will be thick and forgiving anyway so why not leave something for it to bond to?I have been using house paint for years on my MV's and the best results as far as bonding go are on top of rough CARC that has been degreased and power washed. When I have repainted a truck that a Fire Dept had put a gloss automotive paint on, the bonding is not as good, seems to take forever to get a hard finish. When I get one like that I now wipe the whole thing down with scotch pad and lacquer thinner, then scuff it, wash with PSP then power wash before paint. Any rusted areas get sanded then covered with an oil based primer and given a few days to cure. Always wait till the metal and air temp are above 50 and no rain or heavy dew are forecast-ed for a week if outdoors.![]()