New here and have a couple questions

[Rapracing]

Forgive me if I ask stupid questions, I am new at this Genset thing. I have been looking for an MEP-002a for several months, in fact over a year. I was waiting for the prices to fall a bit but it hasn't happened. In fact they just keep going up. Anyways, I did win an auction that GSA had on a 002 this past week and will be picking it up sometime next week. According to the meter it has 7.8 hours on it. Cosmetically it looks 90% or better in the pics.

What are the things I need to do when I get it home?
Good place to get fuel, air and oil filters?
I notice that they should not be idled. Do I start it at idle and then throttle up or should I have the throttle already increased when starting?
What am I missing?

Thanks in advance for any input

 

[massey]

Welcome aboard.

Here is the Wiki, very informative.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?62648-MEP-002A-and-003A

I bought my filters on Amazon.

Before you start it, make sure it has oil and an oil filter in it, check the fuel filters. Bleed the fuel system. I change filters after I get it running and see what exactly I've got.

Make sure the injection pump isn't stuck.

It should be at or near 1800 rpm when it starts if not adjust for 60hz and look for oil pressure.

I'm sure others will add recommendations also.

Good luck

Ed

 

[Walt4653]

Do not IDLE GENERATOR AT ALL,,,,, YOU MIGHT BURN UP VOLTAGE REGULATOR, MAKE SURE FUEL TANK IS CLEAN, IF DIRTY CLEAN AND PUT NEW FUEL IN, I TAKE OFF INTAKE MANIFOLD TO SEE IF ANYONE DROPPED A NUT OR BOLT, STRANGE THING HAPPEN,,,, RUN GENSET FUEL PUMPS FOR 3-5 minutes to see if your gettin fuel back to tank, and to help clean old fuel out of lines, the last ones I have bought have no oil filters in them,you can buy a spin on conversion from another member that makes them well worth it,
some others will chime in
walt

 

[steelandcanvas]

Be sure and download the TM's to become more familiar with your genset. Pull the throttle out halfway, when you get it started twist the knob until you get 60 HZ, that will be 1800 RPM.

 

[Rapracing]

Thanks for the input. I wasn't ignoring but I pulled a bone head move. Not thinking, right after I posted this I posted a question about a genset that the auction hadn't started for yet Got banned for 3 days

Anyway, I will be picking up the unit tomorrow morning. Sure would be nice if I bring it home and no issues

 

[steelypip]

Probably the best thing you can do is turn it through slowly by hand (use the bolt head on the blower) BEFORE trying to start it. It will turn through very easily if all is well. If it stops or feels like you're pushing against more than just compression (of which there is very little when hand-cranking on a cold engine) then stop pushing and find out why. Possible reasons include fluid, objects or rust in a cylinder, stuck valves, or (most likely) a stuck injection pump. It's much better to find this out without breaking any parts.

Read the wiki. Read and understand the operator's TM. All of it. A few things are counterintuitive. Enjoy. Mine just powered the house for two days following a winter storm and was rewarded with an oil change on Saturday, which is about the only kind of maintenance it has needed since I got it three years ago.

 

[Rapracing]

Well I got it home late this afternoon. I rotated the engine as someone suggested with the fan nut and no issues there it seems. The fuel tank looks like it has fluid in the bottom. I opened the drain and it did drip a little but not much. The strainer (I think that is what it is?) attached to the cap in the tank has a little rust and a white oxidation on it. I think in the morning I am going to put a little gasoline in the fuel tank and let that soak for a few hours?? and then drain that out. I will scrub the strainer with a brush and see about removing the oxidation??

Once again I am new to this so if I ask dumb question forgive me. I noticed a couple of methods on here of cleaning the fuel tank? What is the best way to be sure it is clean? I assume it has to come off the generator to really clean it?

I also read about epoxy lining on here. Is that a spray? If not how is it applied?

I am considering also putting either gas or diesel fuel in the oil pan and letting that set for a couple of days.

Will pick up all new filters and oil to install as soon as the tank is cleaned.

This is going to be a project over the next month or so for me.

 

[Jimc]

Take the tank off to clean it. You wasing your time any other way. If your tank is like many there will be a layer if goop in the bottom. Drain the diesel and whatever you can out if it. Some guys start by pressure washing the inside. A trip to the car wash might be in order. Once the heavy stuff is out and its basically clean pour 1/2 gal or so of laquer thinner in the tank to dissolve the varnish. Slish it around 10 min or so and dump it out. Should come out really clean after that. The epoxy liner isnt really necessary but can be done as an extra safeguard if tou want to. Its not spray. Mix, pour it in.

 

[Rapracing]

One more question. Where can I get the green paint that is used on these? I'd like to take care of a couple areas with surface rust before it goes any further.

Thanks

 

[Jimc]

Well there is nor real color match as these gens have been painted many different colors over the year then the paint fades something feirce as they sit out for years. Unfortunately you cant paint over rust irregardless of what some products say. Rust must come off then paint it. The gen end seems to be most prome to the rust issue and flaking. Not too sure how far you want to go on the paint end. If your just looking for a quick rattlecan job you can do that. The proper way to paint bare metal is to use an epoxy primer then you can have a flat single stage polyurethane mixed to color and that will go over the epoxy. Any automotive paint jobber can supply you with the paint. They are all over. You will have one locally im sure

 

[edgephoto]

Well I got it home late this afternoon. I rotated the engine as someone suggested with the fan nut and no issues there it seems. The fuel tank looks like it has fluid in the bottom. I opened the drain and it did drip a little but not much. The strainer (I think that is what it is?) attached to the cap in the tank has a little rust and a white oxidation on it. I think in the morning I am going to put a little gasoline in the fuel tank and let that soak for a few hours?? and then drain that out. I will scrub the strainer with a brush and see about removing the oxidation??

Once again I am new to this so if I ask dumb question forgive me. I noticed a couple of methods on here of cleaning the fuel tank? What is the best way to be sure it is clean? I assume it has to come off the generator to really clean it?

I also read about epoxy lining on here. Is that a spray? If not how is it applied?

I am considering also putting either gas or diesel fuel in the oil pan and letting that set for a couple of days.

Will pick up all new filters and oil to install as soon as the tank is cleaned.

This is going to be a project over the next month or so for me.

The epoxy tank lining is to coat the inside of the fuel tank. You would remove the tank and follow the instructions from the kit. You will thoroughly clean the tank, etch it and then apply the epoxy. You pour it in cap off all the holes and slosh it around. and pour out the excess then let it cure.

My tank had some corrosion in it too. I removed it and put in gasoline, sloshed it around. Did that a few times. Then I did the same with acetone and that really remove most of the gunk. Then I put a few handfulls of nuts and bolts inside and shook and turned and worked them around. Then I removed the nuts and bolts of course. Lastly I sloshed some diesel around and remounted the tank.

I would not put gas or diesel in the crankcase. Just drain the oil, replace the filter and start. After you run it for a while then drain the oil and refill with clean oil. You will be fine.

I read one a post here about adding Marvel Mystery oil to the fuel system and letting it sit. This will help remove some deposits from the injection pump (IP). What I did was add the marvel to the last fuel filter in line, add some fuel to the tank and run the pumps long enough for some to return to the tank. Then I let it sit. Overnight was the plan but it ended up being a week. It started right up when I crank it.

I did do some checks like make sure the glow plugs were good. I gave it a compression check. I did a visual inspection on all the wiring.

I did this to both units I bought. Both started up and ran.

 

[Rapracing]

Thanks for the input on the tank

What batteries should I get for this unit? Seems the boxes are small.

 

[swbradley1]

Just drain the oil, replace the filter and start. After you run it for a while then drain the oil and refill with clean oil. You will be fine.

I hope you mean drain the oil, change the filter, refill with clean oil and then drain and refill again. You said drain it, change filter and run it for a while.

 

[Rapracing]

Gauge and sensor?

Take the tank off to clean it. You wasing your time any other way. If your tank is like many there will be a layer if goop in the bottom. Drain the diesel and whatever you can out if it. Some guys start by pressure washing the inside. A trip to the car wash might be in order. Once the heavy stuff is out and its basically clean pour 1/2 gal or so of laquer thinner in the tank to dissolve the varnish. Slish it around 10 min or so and dump it out. Should come out really clean after that. The epoxy liner isnt really necessary but can be done as an extra safeguard if tou want to. Its not spray. Mix, pour it in.

Do I need to remove the fuel gauge and the sensor that are in the top of the tank before using the lacquer thinner? I didn't know if it may eat the float or cause damage to the sensor.

Thanks
Bob

 

[Jimc]

Prob no necessary since all that stuff that comes in contact with fuel is chemical resistant BUT i did on mine. Only takes a second with a pipe wrench and it gives you a couple more holes to be able to look in to check tank condition. Remove them before you remove the tank from the skid

 

[Rapracing]

OK! I pulled the gauge and sensor out. I have had the thinner in it for about an hour now. I have sloshed it around many for quite a bit. I have not emptied it yet but I can still see rust marks inside the tank. (The thinner has taken paint off the fuel tank). And the wife says I STINK

Do I need to do anything else?? or just rely on the filters to catch anything else that may come off?

i pulled the filters off and there was a cartridge in the oil but nothing in the fuel. I am going to head out and see if I can find what I need to get them replaced. I know I saw the part numbers posted here somewhere so I am going to do a search.

The air filter appears to be in real good shape so I am not sure whether to replace it or not.

 

[Jimc]

Well an hour is def enough. Laquer thinner usually dissolves varnish and gummed up fuel almost in contact. Empty that out. As far as your rust, without seeing the tank its hard to tell. If you have rust that is real flakey and loose then you prob dont have much life left to the tank anyway (guessing). If its just spotty and not heavy and loose and you want to take care if that then dump a gal of muriatic acid in the tank. Avail from home depot. Slosh that around in the tank until the rust is gone. Acid will dissolve the rust leaving perfectly clean etched metal then you can either line it or just use the tank as is. When you dump the acid out be sure and rinse the inside of the tank with water then a quick qt of acetone sloshed around will absorb the water. Dump that and its dry and clean.

 

[Rapracing]

Well an hour is def enough. Laquer thinner usually dissolves varnish and gummed up fuel almost in contact. Empty that out. As far as your rust, without seeing the tank its hard to tell. If you have rust that is real flakey and loose then you prob dont have much life left to the tank anyway (guessing). If its just spotty and not heavy and loose and you want to take care if that then dump a gal of muriatic acid in the tank. Avail from home depot. Slosh that around in the tank until the rust is gone. Acid will dissolve the rust leaving perfectly clean etched metal then you can either line it or just use the tank as is. When you dump the acid out be sure and rinse the inside of the tank with water then a quick qt of acetone sloshed around will absorb the water. Dump that and its dry and clean.

Nothing loose and it is spotty. Thanks

 

[johnray13]

...Do I need to do anything else or just rely on the filters to catch anything else that may come off?...

You lost me. [RD] Procedures: You should have the tank removed with the lacquer thinner doing its thing. Then you'll dump this into a bucket and rinse out the tank with a garden hose. You then rinse with muriatic acid to dissolve rust if needed. If the lacquer thinner and acid hasn't done you in yet, you can then rinse out the tank with acetone to help remove any water residue.

John

 

[Triple Jim]

The guys I know who restore a lot of motorcycle tanks stay away from strong acids like muriatic because it can get in the seams and be hard to get out, causing problems later. Evapo-Rust works well, and some guys use electrolysis and washing soda (not baking soda). You can search that on the net and find instructions.