CB runs batteries down

[MarcusOReallyus]

Eh, yeah. I forgot about that lack of an ACCY position! You are correct!


I sowwy!

 

[cpf240]

So, do we start the debate about the CUCV having / not having an accessory position? Mine does... put key in ignition, push in, turn counter-clockwise, power shows up at the wiper fuse. The ACC position is shown in the wiring diagrams as well. This is where I plan to tap into for an accessory relay... once I have some accessories...

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Awwwwww, shaddap!





Actually, that's on my list of future mods. Don't want to live without it.

 

[Rambling Wreck]

Simpler, yes. proper, no.

Not when you don't have an ACCY position.

Leaving the ignition on, without running the engine, just to use a radio, isn't a good practice.

Do it right the first time.

A timer is overkill unless you suffer from some sort of short term memory issue. Using a timer is certainly not the norm for a good reason and implying that the using a relay isn't proper, just comes across as silly and ill thought.

 

[TechnoWeenie]

A timer is overkill unless you suffer from some sort of short term memory issue. Using a timer is certainly not the norm for a good reason and implying that the using a relay isn't proper, just comes across as silly and ill thought.

Doesn't matter how mindful you are. You WILL forget to turn it off one day, you WILL come out to a dead truck, and you WILL need to buy new batteries. I don't need to go into what deep discharging a starter battery does, do I?

$20 for a switch/relay, or $30 for a timer... The answer is obvious.

I have just a little experience installing electronics/communications.




We're all here to learn, I wouldn't suggest cutting corners.

Ultimately, it's not my vehicle, and is 'yours' to do what you wish. I'm only explaining the 'best practices' for the industry.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Fun stuff, TW.

A question for you - pic #3... Why did you put the 450 antenna in the rain collector groove? Wait, let me guess.... Customer insisted it be on the centerline?

Nah, a customer wouldn't be that stupid! Right? Yeah, right!


Are those law enforcement or ham vehicles?

 

[TechnoWeenie]

Fun stuff, TW.

A question for you - pic #3... Why did you put the 450 antenna in the rain collector groove? Wait, let me guess.... Customer insisted it be on the centerline?

It's on a flat surface, just behind the valley.

Are those law enforcement or ham vehicles?

All are either my vehicles (which is why you see a lot of the same equipment), or my demo cars (when I had a company).

 

[Rambling Wreck]

Doesn't matter how mindful you are. You WILL forget to turn it off one day, you WILL come out to a dead truck, and you WILL need to buy new batteries. I don't need to go into what deep discharging a starter battery does, do I?

$20 for a switch/relay, or $30 for a timer... The answer is obvious.

I have just a little experience installing electronics/communications.

View attachment 415599View attachment 415600View attachment 415601View attachment 415602View attachment 415603View attachment 415604


We're all here to learn, I wouldn't suggest cutting corners.

Ultimately, it's not my vehicle, and is 'yours' to do what you wish. I'm only explaining the 'best practices' for the industry.

You can choose to skin that cat however you like. Whether you need a timer or not really depends on the application. So, what you call a "best practice" may work for you but may be highly impractical for someone else's application. That is why I would be reluctant to call most things that are open to opinion/interpretation/application a "best practice". Also, just because someone didn't do it your way doesn't mean that they cut corners either.

Nice looking pics of your installs. When I read your post and saw the pictures the first thing that popped in my head was the attached picture. Hopefully that will convey that I read and take all of this very light heartedly and hope you do the same.

 

[TechnoWeenie]

When I read your post and saw the pictures the first thing that popped in my head was the attached picture.

Heh. A timer is no more complicated than a relay, and not prohibitively expensive. So there is no reason to use a just a switch and a relay, and plenty of reasons not to.

So yes, I see it as cutting corners.

But, as I said, don't let me tell you what to do with your vehicle, it's yours to do with as you please.

Thank you for taking notice of the pride I take in my work, and in doing so, hopefully you understand why I'm sharing best practices.

 

[Rambling Wreck]

Heh. A timer is no more complicated than a relay, and not prohibitively expensive. So there is no reason to use a just a switch and a relay, and plenty of reasons not to.

So yes, I see it as cutting corners.

But, as I said, don't let me tell you what to do with your vehicle, it's yours to do with as you please.

Thank you for taking notice of the pride I take in my work, and in doing so, hopefully you understand why I'm sharing best practices.

Again, your best practice for your application. There are instances where a timer wouldn't make sense. I run my systems for hours at a time while tailgating and would not use a timer because I wouldn't want things (tv, powered antenna, stereo, subwoofers, speakers, PA's, train horn solenoid, cab fan, shop fan, party lights, cabin light, and occasionally a blender) to shut off unless I choose to manually switch them off (either individually or all at once with the master accessory switch that operates the solenoid in front of my distribution block). A relay or a solenoid switch, isn't "cutting corners" if the application doesn't lend itself to the use of a timer.

I would like to know where you get your timers from because those are good prices. In the future, another application or an additional component may warrant a timer. If you ever need relays, let me know. I can find them for much cheaper than $20 (24v or 12v).

 

[TechnoWeenie]

Again, your best practice for your application. There are instances where a timer wouldn't make sense. I run my systems for hours at a time while tailgating and would not use a timer because I wouldn't want things (tv, powered antenna, stereo, subwoofers, speakers, PA's, train horn solenoid, cab fan, shop fan, party lights, cabin light, and occasionally a blender) to shut off unless I choose to manually switch them off (either individually or all at once with the master accessory switch that operates the solenoid in front of my distribution block). A relay or a solenoid switch, isn't "cutting corners" if the application doesn't lend itself to the use of a timer.

I would like to know where you get your timers from because those are good prices. In the future, another application or an additional component may warrant a timer. If you ever need relays, let me know. I can find them for much cheaper than $20 (24v or 12v).

The 3$ relay will become $20 with the purchase of the appropriate connectors/mounts/etc. I assume that not everyone has a shed full of electronic parts/components.

You can always set the timer to x hours.. ... and reset it with a quick on/off cycle of the ignition, or, flip a switch to change it from your standard time (15 mins,30 mins, etc) to a longer time (3 hours, 5 hours,etc)

 

[Cleveland Iron]

Ok... Two switches and a relay... Switch one: ON, OFF, ACCESSORY. Switch two: TIMER with RESET. Also a set of status lights... Then if you need to get really fancy, install a voltage sensor to kill the relay if the battery voltage drops too low. This is one of those projects that can get as complex or as simple as you want. If someone is happy with a switch... Fine. If he decides to upgrade later. Better. Balance needs, time and budget. Seriously folks, if Rube Goldberg were to design a system... Well, thinking about it... I think I've seen his work in some of the TMs...

 

[Rambling Wreck]

The 3$ relay will become $20 with the purchase of the appropriate connectors/mounts/etc. I assume that not everyone has a shed full of electronic parts/components.

You can always set the timer to x hours.. ... and reset it with a quick on/off cycle of the ignition, or, flip a switch to change it from your standard time (15 mins,30 mins, etc) to a longer time (3 hours, 5 hours,etc)

So by that logic, a $30 timer would actually become $47 because you still need connectors/mounts/etc, right? Post a link if when you get a chance for those timers. I'd like to see which ones you use and where you get them for that price.

 

[TechnoWeenie]

So by that logic, a $30 timer would actually becomes $47 because you still need connectors/mounts/etc, right?

touché

Post a link if when you get a chance for those timers. I'd like to see which ones you use and where you get them for that price.

I'll see if I can find a link. Most timers I buy are more elaborate and in the 60$ range... basic ones I've seen as low as 10$, but wouldn't trust them to mission critical applications.

 

[cpf240]

Um, I"m sure it is small, but doesn't the timer module have a continuous draw of its own?

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Yes, but nothing that should bother a healthy battery.

 

[TechnoWeenie]

Um, I"m sure it is small, but doesn't the timer module have a continuous draw of its own?

either none, for the good ones,unless activated, to a couple ma for crappy ones.

 

[Rambling Wreck]

touché



I'll see if I can find a link. Most timers I buy are more elaborate and in the 60$ range... basic ones I've seen as low as 10$, but wouldn't trust them to mission critical applications.

You ever find a link to those cheap timers?

 

[TechnoWeenie]

You ever find a link to those cheap timers?

I didn't look, TBH.

It's not high up on my priority list, being unemployed and all.
Check Ebay.

 

[Rambling Wreck]

I didn't look, TBH.

It's not high up on my priority list, being unemployed and all.
Check Ebay.

I looked on Ebay and Amazon but I would really like to specifically see the ones you use and recommend that are around $30. If they are too hard to source/find then that may be an issue. I'm in no rush. If you don't mind, just post the link whenever you get a few minutes to look.