Stupid newbie, the sticky's are there for a reason.

[Lild]

So after picking p my 1009 last friday i had a been searching, reading post gathering a to do list. Every thing seemed to work fine, drove fine, with the exception of a few slow starts. Figured it was time for new gp's. but she was to be driven.

Untill yesterday. I had to jump start it, thought the batteries were going dead until i had them tested, both were good. How ever it still needed a jump. So i started it a few times last nite to make sure it would start, did fine, drove it a few times today, started fine. Untill i leave work to go home. I had just went some where still warm, no cold start. Then there was a slow death to the batteries to no start at all.

I then getbout a battery charger, jump box, hook them up same. U would swear the batteries were dead. But the jump box was showing full charge as well 24v. That when one of my co workers who drivers our werckers, as well as old box truck that had a diesel motor in, said its the starter. I was like you sure cause it sounds like dead batteriers. Sure enough get under the truck, starter was lose, one bolt missing, one barely holding on for dear life.

I went to advance got new bolt, still no go. So, now what, call advance for a new high output starter, 184. Ouch. Lucky me, my co worker had one from his 1995 box truck that he changed the diesel to gas motor swap. The one he had was what i needed and was still new. Stuck it in, fired right up. Did it 3-4 times, each time.
So next time u have good batteries, but sounds like they're dead, check starter, taddle tale sign, battery cables along with battery will be hot.

I suggest to all new guys, when u buy, go thrumthe check list first, oddly enough @ lunch, i went to oreilly & got the selinoid to do the starter mod. Thats on the to do list for this sun. Along with checking allother bolts.

 

[Lild]

There is one issue, & i may have to search it out, but after the install, & starting it up, u can hear the bindex, winding down, not staying engaged, but winding down. I don't know if it is the starter, & i need to do the 12v conversion, or if its the starter relay. Which i'm doing the mod for that sunday. But other then that bubba got driven home. I unhooked the batteries not chancing anything.

Hope this helps other in the near future.

 

[ducer]

Sounds like you need to shim the starter it may be too tight to the flywheel and if left will wear spots or knock teeth off.

Denny

 

[doghead]

Are you saying your friend had a 24volt starter? That is luck.

If you installed a 12v starter, you need to make some wiring changes or it will be dead soon(they don't last long on 24v). If it is 12v, you don't need the underdash relay at all, just a jumper from purple to purple w/white tracer.

Did you install a support bracked at the motor end of the starter?

 

[rchalmers3]

If you installed a 12v starter, you need to make some wiring changes or it will be dead soon(they don't last long on 24v).

If the engine starts easily, that 12v replacement starter may last for years. The OP definitely needs to confirm there is proper clearances due to the bendix noise.

Rick

 

[Lild]

This is the starter that is on there now. http://m.advanceautoparts.com/mt/sh...0-p?navigationPath=L1*14920|L2*15006|L3*15663

o do have the bracket that attaches to the end, & it is mounted the engine block, but it got late, & after tightening the starter to the block, I noticed the end bracket was a 1/4" lower the where the starter mount was. So it could be that the starter isn't correctly aligned.

So if I losen the bolts up, attach the end bracket to the front of the starter, that should give a correct alignment, assumption, but will I need any shimes between the block & starter?

i will have to get a video up later with the starter noise.

 

[Lild]

Another question, the 24v system is the same, with the listed starter above, will I need to move the cables around for a 12v setup. & could the extra juice cause the prolong wind binder to wind down? Like I said it's not staying engaged, I know what that sounds like. I would almost swear that it has to much torque.

 

[Hasdrubal]

The pic you posted shows a gear reduction starter. Does it look the same as the one you took out? Stock is a direct drive, it's thicker and heavier, which would explain why your support bracket doesn't line up, you'll need one for a GR starter..or make your own. Chances are your friends 95 starter is a 12V, plan on it failing soon. Consider getting your original starter rebuilt. Find a competent local shop or do it yourself.

 

[doghead]

You will burn out the starter with 24v supplied to either the solenoid or the motor(right now you are doing both). Both need to be modified to use a 12v starter.

You also need the support bracket. Every time you start it, you may brake it(without it).

Direct drive and gear reduction starters use different support brackets.

All of this has been covered in depth, very recently and many many times.

You would not connect a 120v water pump to a 220v line in your house, would you?

 

[ReubenJames]

Listen to all the advice you have been given. Here is one the possible outcomes of having a 12 volt started hooked up to a 24 volt system (even with the brace attached).

 

[Lild]

All I have done was drive it home, I won't drive it again until I get it straighten out. My original is thicker way heavier but the local stores as I know of have one like it. Just the one I posted. The bracket that is on mine to support the front is brass color & curved.i do plan on reading the other info. Just hadn't had the time to do so today.

 

[Lild]

Wow, just did 2hrs worth of reading on the 12v conversion....since i have the 12v starter i have 2 options.

from what i undertand, if i want to do a full 12v conversion, the rosco. Conversion is the way to go? I went ot their site, read steps 1-5, & thats all there is, the guide refers to photos 2 & 3, but all i see is photo 1. Thats it, i dont see the other photos or any other steps past 5. Did i miss some thing, or is that it?

or i can leave it stock, since i have the 12v starter, & need it for the time, i need to just move the red starter wire off the junction box, connect to the 1st batt, & either do the starter relay mod, & connect the purple/white wire to the purple wire,or just skip the relay mod and connect the two wires? (I assume that i splice the two together, or if I do the relay mod, i can connect the two on the same terminal?) I would like to leave things as is, not interested in the full conversion. & i assume with this option i dont have to remove or mess with either alt., or rewire the batteries? Just more of a plug & play deal.

I still have the original starter & will have it rebuilt, depending on price will detrime when. Also where i live, we rarely see snow & maybe low 20's in the winter.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Lild]

This is what it sounded like after the 12v starter is in with 24v running to it.