Do I need bigger brakes...?

[Efituned]

I recently did a rear disk brake conversion and installed a gooseneck hitch on my M1008. While pulling a dump trailer, I tried braking with out using the trailer brakes @ 30mph and I felt like the truck was never going to stop. Without the trailer I felt like the truck stopped better with the rear drum brakes. The pedal is firm and the system is fully bled.

When I went over the scales the truck and trailer weighed 17900lbs full, 12400lbs empty, and the truck weighs 5500lbs.

Is this to much for these brakes? Do y'all have any problems towing this with drums?

 

[jdknech]

drum brakes do have more stopping power... if pulling heavy loads, i would prefer the drums.. plus the D60 rear that the M1008 came with had some VERY beefy drums on it... just my

 

[DieselBob]

I recently did a rear disk brake conversion

Something don't sound correct. Did the kit you installed come with a new master cylinder and proportioning valve ?

 

[Efituned]

Something don't sound correct. Did the kit you installed come with a new master cylinder and proportioning valve ?

It wasn't really a kit. I just ordered the brackets and used all the front brake components from a k20. It's a popular conversion, but I am not sure if the master cylinder can keep up when towing. I have heard with people locking up the rears with out changing the stock proportioning valve, but that's not my case.

 

[hovenga67]

Did you bypass the rear valve? At the weight you are at trailer brakes are manditory. I have done that weight and more without, but you have to think ahead and stop early. That being said you should be able to to lock the brakes up.
Brent

 

[Cucvnut]

you have a 14ff not a dana 60 rear.

 

[Efituned]

Did you bypass the rear valve? At the weight you are at trailer brakes are manditory. I have done that weight and more without, but you have to think ahead and stop early. That being said you should be able to to lock the brakes up.
Brent

I did not bypass the rear valve, change the proportioning valve, or the master cylinder. I know at that weight they are necessary, but it seemed like I couldn't stop at all. I have towed that weight and more with other trucks, but never my cucv.

you have a 14ff not a dana 60 rear.

Yeah, I know.

 

[hovenga67]

I would bypass the rear valve so you have full pressure at the calipers. You should be able to lock the brakes up with a heavy load with no trailer brakes. If you can't lock them up you might have a bad master cylinder or other problems. I bypassed the valve with the stock rear brakes and haven't had any problems.
Brent

 

[Efituned]

I would bypass the rear valve so you have full pressure at the calipers. You should be able to lock the brakes up with a heavy load with no trailer brakes. If you can't lock them up you might have a bad master cylinder or other problems. I bypassed the valve with the stock rear brakes and haven't had any problems.
Brent

If I turn that valve, all the way in the rear, will it fully open? I really don't want to bleed the brakes again.

 

[Sharecropper]

The correct setting for the rear proportioning valve is for the little dot to be at 12:00 when there is no load in the bed of the truck. Please see post #75 in my rebuild thread http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...arried-away/page8&highlight=kinda+got+carried

Hope this helps.