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Synthetic WMO for a 6.2?

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axshon

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So I've seen crystallization referred to in a few threads but nothing definitive and most of those are older threads. Is synthetic WMO a viable option? It will be going in a 6.2L (1009) and be mixed with other WMO.
 
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axshon

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Thanks, so it looks like I'd be PROBABLY good to go if I stick with WMO that is strictly synthetic motor oil, not other kinds of synthetic waste oil. Interesting. Enter at your own risk...
 
Beyond Biodiesel

Beyond Biodiesel

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It does not mater where your WMO came from, you can burn it as fuel. The big problem with WMO is it can have a lot of dissolved solids and free carbon that can result in coking in your engine. For some reason turbocharged engines have less coking issues when burning WMO. So, if your 6.2L has a turbo then you may not have problems. If, not then expect to have to remove your injectors every 100-1000 miles to decoke them, because that was what happened with my 6.2L when I tried running WMO on it.
 
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axshon

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So after reading this reply I found this thread on another forum: http://beyondbiodiesel.org/forum/index.php?topic=140.0

Hey I've sean that mug shot before!

So once I sell my car I plan to run the M1009 as a daily driver for as long as possible. I don't have the house in Raleigh yet so I'm not sure about my actual commute but I think I'm going to be running about 60 miles per day and maybe a bit more. I want to save as much as possible and reuse as much as possible so WMO seems like a good alternative with a home grown filtration system to prep it. Now I'm thinking that most of the people doing this on SS are probably running true multi-fuel engines so I might be out of luck.

Since this is a DD I don't really want to have to pull it down once a week to clean the injectors and I certainly don't want to get stuck on the side of the road. The wife would lose faith in my 'experiment' very quickly if she had to come get me and tow the old truck home.

On the other hand, it looks like it may be possible to start with a very low WMO blend of 90/10 and very slowly work my way up, running a full tank of straight diesel every 3rd tank and pulling the injectors every weekend to check them out until everything stabilizes. This is what I have gleaned from looking around, not a plan I saw anywhere else. I've seen people discussing running 60/40 D2/WMO and that would be a significant fuel savings as long as it wasn't offset with an occasional towing bill or an hour along the side of the road with a bottle of acetone cleaning my injectors twice a month... BTW, no turbo on the truck.

Thoughts?
 
Beyond Biodiesel

Beyond Biodiesel

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Prescott, AZ
axshon said:
So after reading this reply I found this thread on another forum: http://beyondbiodiesel.org/forum/index.php?topic=140.0

Hey I've sean that mug shot before!
Click to expand...
Thanks for the link to my forum. If you want to run WMO, then you might want to look at this section of the Beyond Biodiesel forum Making Black Diesel (WMO)
axshon said:
So once I sell my car I plan to run the M1009 as a daily driver for as long as possible. I don't have the house in Raleigh yet so I'm not sure about my actual commute but I think I'm going to be running about 60 miles per day and maybe a bit more. I want to save as much as possible and reuse as much as possible so WMO seems like a good alternative with a home grown filtration system to prep it. Now I'm thinking that most of the people doing this on SS are probably running true multi-fuel engines so I might be out of luck.

Since this is a DD I don't really want to have to pull it down once a week to clean the injectors and I certainly don't want to get stuck on the side of the road. The wife would lose faith in my 'experiment' very quickly if she had to come get me and tow the old truck home.

On the other hand, it looks like it may be possible to start with a very low WMO blend of 90/10 and very slowly work my way up, running a full tank of straight diesel every 3rd tank and pulling the injectors every weekend to check them out until everything stabilizes. This is what I have gleaned from looking around, not a plan I saw anywhere else. I've seen people discussing running 60/40 D2/WMO and that would be a significant fuel savings as long as it wasn't offset with an occasional towing bill or an hour along the side of the road with a bottle of acetone cleaning my injectors twice a month... BTW, no turbo on the truck.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...
Your plan of starting with 10% WMO seems like a good plan. I started at 80% blended, settled, filtered and centrifuged WMO and worked my way down to 20%. I found the less WMO I put into my 6.2DD the longer it took for my injectors to coke shut. At 20% it took 3 months. At that point it did not seem worth it. Now I am working on distilling it. Burning distilled WMO in the same engine has not coked my injectors yet.
 
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axshon

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Thanks very much both for the advice here and for putting your knowledge online on the other forum. It helps out a lot.
 
svd dragunov

svd dragunov

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Beyond Biodiesel said:
Thanks for the link to my forum. If you want to run WMO, then you might want to look at this section of the Beyond Biodiesel forum Making Black Diesel (WMO)

Your plan of starting with 10% WMO seems like a good plan. I started at 80% blended, settled, filtered and centrifuged WMO and worked my way down to 20%. I found the less WMO I put into my 6.2DD the longer it took for my injectors to coke shut. At 20% it took 3 months. At that point it did not seem worth it. Now I am working on distilling it. Burning distilled WMO in the same engine has not coked my injectors yet.
Click to expand...
how much energy are you using towards distilling the oil? what temp does it evaporate? how much can you do at a time? just curious.
 
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