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Deuce Dump Truck Conversion

DeuceSiek

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I raised my bed 2" (added 2" tubing) but I still had to cut out and box some cross members for hoist clearance. You may be fine with your sub frame but it still looks like it will be close.

The link to my dump project- http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...highlight=dump
Your dump conversion looks great! Is there anything you wish you had done differently?

I have measured over and over again. I am still using the hardwood spacer and the 4" subframe. It will give me an extra 1" of clearance between the hoist cylinder and the closest bed cross member. I designed it so that the highest point of the hoist fell directly between two of the bed cross members.
 

Stretch44875

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I notched a couple bed crossmembers, and didn't raise the bed at all. Bed looks completely stock, aside from the missing bumperettes.
 

Mud Hugger

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apparently everybody has issues with clearance between hoist frame and bed rails.....I have 395s on my duece and haul firewood and really don't care to throw it much higher so I made a great effort to avoid raising bed at all and want to maintain stock look as much as much as possible. I decided to drop hoist between truck frame rails but made sure I wouldn't have drivetrain clearance issues. The only issues I had is the hoist is 40" long and only have 35" between crossmembers. I turned the air tanks sideways in frame and moved cross member forward 5", my hoist has 1/2" between top and bed cross members. My hoist is 16ton and my pivot point to hoist lift point is 101"s.
 

m16ty

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My hoist wouldn't fit between the frame crossmembers either. I opted to add about 1 1/2" to the bed height and notch the bed crossmembers. I also had to add the extra height for gringeltaube's hinge design that I used ( it allows me to keep the stock hitch and bumperetts). I'm also using a dropside bed which is weaker than a standard cargo and I figure the extra 2X2X1/4 tubing will help a lot on strength.

The bed has held up fine hauling large rock, gravel, scrap iron, logs, and dirt. The only weak point now is the thin bed floor. You have to be real careful hauling rocks and such not to damage the bed floor. If mine gets too bad I'll add a thicker skin.

Just make sure you place the hoist where it will give you the dump angle you want. You've got a advantage in that department the way you cut the frame off so it shouldn't be a issue.
 

aheilmann68

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I used a hoist from premium supply and the thing fit with tons of room to spare, put 2x4s as the wood and I have another 5". The pump is under the bead next to the frame rails as well
 

ridingshotgun

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Can't believe I just saw this thread. Let me know if you need pics of anything on my truck. My only concern with using the regular deuce bed is that while it may work fine for hauling mulch or dirt, it really wasn't designed to dump rock, rip-rap or anything really heavy. You will notice this when you get a heavy load up in the air or in a slight twist that it could easily tweak the bed. It makes you pay special attention to the spots you pick to dump. Just my 2 cents.
 

aheilmann68

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my bobber will do 2 yards of qp or any similar sized stone up to 1.5"rounds, luckily that stuff likes to come out of the truck fairly easily. When I haul 2 yards of topsoil that does not want to budge, with those loads I need to be on level ground so like you mention there is no tweaking of the hoist or frame. The way I mounted the hoist was to set the hinges on brackets at the back of the frame, mount the hoist where I wanted it mid bed on 6"x 3/8" channel and then used 4x4x1/4 structural angle to connect the hoist points to the hinges. The bed was then put on that frame and welded to the angle iron in about a dozen spots, this way if I ever need to take the bed off I just use the plasma cutter to gouge the welds out.
 

ridingshotgun

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my bobber will do 2 yards of qp or any similar sized stone up to 1.5"rounds, luckily that stuff likes to come out of the truck fairly easily. When I haul 2 yards of topsoil that does not want to budge, with those loads I need to be on level ground so like you mention there is no tweaking of the hoist or frame. The way I mounted the hoist was to set the hinges on brackets at the back of the frame, mount the hoist where I wanted it mid bed on 6"x 3/8" channel and then used 4x4x1/4 structural angle to connect the hoist points to the hinges. The bed was then put on that frame and welded to the angle iron in about a dozen spots, this way if I ever need to take the bed off I just use the plasma cutter to gouge the welds out.
Sounds like your set up is pretty thorough. I was referring specifically to the bed itself based only on my experience with my truck. I have a straight ram and a reinforced frame and I rarely have to worry about tweaking the hoist. I'm just saying that the beds weren't designed to be dump beds and I know I have to be extra careful with mine, especially since my hoist will lift WAY more than my truck will handle.
 

aheilmann68

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ok now I see where your coming from. I guess that's one thing to worry about, really testing the ram. That must be a nice feature, being able to do full loads and all. Since I did the bobber I wanted fully loaded capacity at the front spring ratings so its a tad over 3 tons and that's when the hoist quits so it works out well. Truck weighs 11500 fully loaded by itself with 2 in cab and a full tank of fuel and I have it GVWed at 17999 so with the exception of one case where I was hauling wet clay a few miles, I fall under the GVW as regestered
 

aheilmann68

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North NJ
Actually no my distance is what the math worked out to be for a 3 ton load. The hoist is rated to 3 tons max and that's what I am able to dump at a roughly 45deg on the bed. The front springs on the deuce are rated for IIRC 6.5k so I did not want/need/pay extra for a hoist that could do 10 tons because that is well out of spec for the suspension since as it is with 3 tons in the bed is above what the suspension is engineered/rated for.
 

m16ty

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The farther toward the back of the bed you mount the hoist, the more unstable the raised bed will be. Closer to the back also limits the hoist lift capacity but it allows for more dump angle. When you mount the hoist it's all a tradeoff between lift capacity, dump angle, and stability.

A telescopic hoist mounted in the front of the bed is by far the best setup but you have build a doghouse in the front of the bed which takes up bed space and some don't like the looks of a doghouse sticking out of the bed.

The second best IMO is twin cylinders mounted under the bed. I had one of these hoist originally to mount on my deuce but ran into problems. Most of these hang down quite a bit below the frame and I ran into interference with the tandems.

The third and the one most people use (myself included) is the scissor hoist. The main advantage to these is that they will fit between the bed and the frame (sometimes with a little bed crossmember clearancing ). They are very compact compared to other setups and are easy to mount.

There are other setups like what the military used on factory dumps and other older setups that use various cylinder mounts but most of the civilian dumps you see on the road today will more than likely be one of the three styles listed above.
 
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Mud Hugger

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Good point....the fact that you bobbed it didn't register right away. How does material come out at 45 degrees? Our commercial trucks go up to a little better than 50 degrees but are also equipped with vibrators and poly floors.
 

aheilmann68

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M16: very good summary on the options for the dump action.
mud: depending on material sometimes good sometimes no good. Dry mulch, wood chips, stone all empty great. Topsoil not so much usually have to jump in and convince it. I'm only using it for house hold projects so works good enough for me
 

m16ty

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On my truck it goes to right at 60%. I haven't have anything stick in it except some very wet dirt.
 

DDurb

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To clarify things, you are using 4x2 steel tube for a subframe. The bed height will then be 4" higher than factory, correct?
 

DeuceSiek

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Groton NH
To clarify things, you are using 4x2 steel tube for a subframe. The bed height will then be 4" higher than factory, correct?
Yes, that is correct, I used 1/4 in thick 4x2 steel tube for the subframe and the bed is now 4" higher than factory.
 
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