VIN not located on data plate or under either fender on the chassis!

[doghead]

JT, you started 2 threads on this topic. I merged them into one.


Is that picture on the passenger side frame rail?

 

[JimmyThompson]

Thank you!

The photo is on the driver's side.

 

[doghead]

OK, the number you show in the picture above looks to be between the upper shock mount and the rear(front) spring mount. That is too far back(typically).

Here is a picture with a Vin number exposed. Notice that it is just behind the strengtening plate. Look at the pitman arm, then look to the rear and you will see the diagonal edge of the plate shown in this picture.

 

[Warthog]

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?17017-Deuce-VINhttp://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?1691-Vin-number-location-m35a2
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?4882-Found-Frame-VIN
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[JimmyThompson]

Doghead-I already sanded down that area and found no numbers.

 

[doghead]

Have you looked well on the passenger side as well?

You may have an older Studebaker truck with it on the passenger side.

If not, then you may have an oddly stamped(drivers side stamped) older truck.

Do you have a turbo? Can we see a few pictures of your dash, and truck?

Can you look at the data tags on the differentials and see what year they have on them?

Do you have an OD transmission?

Do you have a winch?

 

[Recovry4x4]

Here's what you need to do. Check the passenger side but not for a VIN. Check the back motor mount to see it it's bolted or rivted to the frame. My guess is that it's going to be bolted. It certainly does appear to be a depot repower that was once gas. The truck is not a Stude for sure. All Stude VINs started with an M and had 5 digits after it. Example; M34567. I'm suspecting that its a Reo but could also be a Utica Bend or Curtiss Wright or even a few others. When it's all over and done you will probably have to "Assign" it a year and Mfg.

 

[JimmyThompson]

Alright... I just snapped some photos, the truck does have a turbo as the motor's data plate stated "D" turbo with a manufacture date of E-67 which I would guess is May-1967? The frame has black spray paint on several spots which is where I previously looked for the serial number. The bumper numbers/letters are "31 FSB"(Passenger Side) & "B 157"(Driver Side). Either way, here are 10 of the most recent photos:

 

[JimmyThompson]

Some of the rest... I wasn't able to find a data plate on the differential(s).

 

[doghead]

The 1D on the motor plate does not indicate which turbo you have. It designates an engine revision.

Your motor was part of a 1986 contract. It was most likely to have been manufactured in 1986 or 7. This would indicate that your truck was rebuilt after 1986.

Your dash has an older gauge panel. Your truck is most likely to have been originally built between 1952-1967 as a gas engine truck later converted to a multifuel. Your dash data tag may have been replace with the incomplete tag you have now.

Is your driver side inner fender flat on top? or is it slanted/angled toward the motor?

Also, if you follow the main wiring harness above the steering column, is there a connection(cannon plug) that goes to the alternator? If so, then you have an early generator harness that has been converted to use an alternator(what you have now). Your truck may have received a completely new harness when it was rebuilt.



Look at your axle tags next. Here is a picture to help show where they should be found. All 3 axles should have one. There is a date on the tag.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Gasser conversion for sure. Has the narrow gauge cluster. You say no data tag on axles? That makes perfect sense for the older trucks. Most had the numbers and dates stamped in them. Once you find these and post the info we can narrow down a build date pretty close. Check out post 33 in this thread!
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?3910-Deuce-Wrecker-Engine-Swap&highlight=wrecker
It has some visuals in reference to where the numbers are on the axles. This is going to be of great assistance in narrowing down your year.

Edit, note bolted bracket. Former gasser converted to multi!

 

[JimmyThompson]

Let me start off by saying thank you once again for everyone's assistance. Doghead, here are some photos of my turbo and the rear differential data plate, any suggestions/hints on how to remove the CARC and not erase the data? I'm not sure I follow you about the front fender slanting toward the motor. I'd greatly appreciate a photo of what your referencing...

 

[JimmyThompson]

Gasser conversion for sure. Has the narrow gauge cluster. You say no data tag on axles? That makes perfect sense for the older trucks. Most had the numbers and dates stamped in them. Once you find these and post the info we can narrow down a build date pretty close. Check out post 33 in this thread!
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?3910-Deuce-Wrecker-Engine-Swap&highlight=wrecker
It has some visuals in reference to where the numbers are on the axles. This is going to be of great assistance in narrowing down your year.

Edit, note bolted bracket. Former gasser converted to multi!

There was not any numbers on the passenger side inside of the bolt heads which you put a red square on.

 

[Recovry4x4]

The fact that there are bolts and not hot rivets seals the deal on a gasser conversion. The original mount was hot riveted in place. When the truck was converted to multifuel they replaced the mount and bolted it in place. If you look at other deuces you will notice that your dash panel has a different gauge layout. What you may not notice is that it's narrower as well. Both are sure fire indications of a repower. As far as the axles, I thought there were no data plates. If the front axle has no data plates, check it for stampings. Will be just to the right of center of the pumpkin while sitting under the truck.

 

[JimmyThompson]

It looks as though there is a data plate on the rear differential. Any suggestions on how to safely remove the CARC so I don't remove the information?

 

[Recovry4x4]

You may be able to get it loosened up with DOT 3 brake fluid but it will take days of reapplication.

 

[JimmyThompson]

How about acetone or mineral spirits?!!?

 

[doghead]

I can see that your inner fenders are the older gas engine style.

If you can set a cup of water on the innerfenderwell, then it is the old style.

The old style are a 90 degree angle, with a flat top. The newer style is angled and you can not set a cup on it.

 

[doghead]

Oh, and you have a "D" turbo.

Again, the engine data tag has nothing to do with which turbo is installed.

 

[doghead]

You can see in this picture, the large flat surface on the driver side inner fender. This is a gas truck original.