Front cv boot replacement labor time

[Blackmagic94]

Replace ripped one piece and replace with zipper style on passenger front axle. How long to do you figure. Trying to figure out what to pay my mech buddy to do this.

 

[jrobinson5093]

it took about 45 min so i would say a hour and a half. but thats just a jab in the dark

 

[oldshep]

id say thats about right if i remember correctly

 

[Warthog]

And it all depends on your experience level of doing a boot replacement.

I would say an hour on your first one.. The hard part is getting the retaining ring in the proper place.

 

[jrobinson5093]

that aint no lie

 

[wsucougarx]

Took me about 5 minutes to figure it out, but took me well over an hour to keep the darn boot from slipping out of the hold down ring. That was 1.5 years ago and I'm still ticked off about it....... Also an FYI, try and buy USGI boots if you can. I got some Asian made zippered boots from Eriks....after 6 months they are already falling apart. Found some USGI one's w/2008 manuf date on them for $15 on ebay.

 

[rlwm211]

I agree on the learning curve on the zipper boots.

The trick for me was having the clamp at a size just big enough to slip over the boot and hold it, and that was enough to hold the boot while I tightened up the clamp.

I figure an hour is fair depending on any other PMCS he does while he has the tire off.

RL

 

[svd dragunov]

old thread, but im currently doing this and was getting extremely frustrated trying to keep the seal on while i put the ring on. any one have any tips besides the ones already mentioned?

 

[JimmyThompson]

I decided to go with a 1-piece silicone boot... I figured why not inspect the seals, bearings, and replace the grease. Good thing I did, my bearings were pretty worn. It took about 7-8 hours to do both. Which includes steam cleaning the axle, steering knuckle, and hub. It's only time & money right?

 

[svd dragunov]

I decided to go with a 1-piece silicone boot... I figured why not inspect the seals, bearings, and replace the grease. Good thing I did, my bearings were pretty worn. It took about 7-8 hours to do both. Which includes steam cleaning the axle, steering knuckle, and hub. It's only time & money right?

Already purchased the zipper boot.

Sigh time and money. 2 things im short on right now......

 

[welldigger]

old thread, but im currently doing this and was getting extremely frustrated trying to keep the seal on while i put the ring on. any one have any tips besides the ones already mentioned?

Go to home depot, Lowes, etc. And buy the giant bag of plastic wood clamps, the kind that sortof look like pliers. There should be all sorts of different sizes. The small and medium ones are perfect for this. As you get the boot where you want it add a clamp. Slowly work your way around adding a clamp every few inches.

 

[svd dragunov]

awsome idea thanks!

 

[DUG]

When we did boot replacements we did it in a few minutes like this -

Make sure the boot is perfectly clean where it touches the groove.

Make sure the groove is spotlessly clean. Use brake or carb cleaner to remove any trace of grease or oil.

Apply a light coat of rubber cement to the boot and groove in several areas (5 or 6).

Install boot after waiting as required by the glue instructions.

Give it a couple minutes to set up. (You can work on the other side while waiting or grab a beer).

Install clamp.

The first time I did this we used a cheap made in china boot and it tore 9 months later. When we removed it it was not adversely affected by the glue. I assumed it would tear or leave rubber chunks where it was glued, but it did not. The potential is there though, so if you do spot glue it in place and need to remove it later your boot may not be reusable.

 

[m-35tom]

DUG is right, but I don't even use glue. Clean everything with brake cleaner so there is NO grease. It has to be spotless! then it is really pretty easy to keep it in the groove and put on the clamp.

 

[welldigger]

DUG is right, but I don't even use glue. Clean everything with brake cleaner so there is NO grease. It has to be spotless! then it is really pretty easy to keep it in the groove and put on the clamp.

Not so much with the silicone boots. They have a slick texture so they want to slip out of the groove regardless. Getting the grove clean and dry does help a lot. If the silicon boots get any oil or grease on them they refuse to stay in place.

 

[Iski]

I like to slather grease everywhere to stop parts from rusting. So when I get to this its going to be lots of little clamps, or a custom jig.

 

[SoundGuy]

I recommend the clamps. I fought with my silicon ones for hours. After getting totally aggravated by it, I tried some clamps and they worked great. I only had 2, but made it work. I made the clamp ring barely big enough and it also helped. Mine were not totally clean. I greased it up good. After reading this, That may have been some of my fighting. Friends are also helpful in this regard too. Good luck.

 

[JimmyThompson]

Just get two extra people to help you "bead" the boot... You'll thank me later!

 

[svd dragunov]

JEEZE! got it on yesterday, after fighting with it for a good hour i broke down and and got some glue like was recomended earlier. I basicly did little spots all around then slipped on the ring. Im pretty sure i invented some new cuss words. Thanks all.

 

[tashaak]

I new to this forum and read some stuff on cv boots for m925. Does anyone have pics of or even better a video on installing cv boots either the zipper type or solid ones. Installing the solid ones involves more labor but the better way to go. What is involved in installing them. I'm still not sure which way to go. Thanks