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Help with an MEP-006A

Greasmnk1

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Tacoma, Wa
I purchased an MEP-006A at auction, it had been drained, I refilled all of the fluids and tried to fire it up, it turns over but the only way the fuel pumps run is with the battle short on. I get fuel through the filters but it won't start, and no white smoke when cranking it over, any suggestions? I would also like to convert it to commercially available filters if anyone has a list of kits or parts it would be much appreciated.
 
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1800 Diesel

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Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
I purchased an MEP-006A at auction, it had been drained, I refilled all of the fluids and tried to fire it up, it turns over but the only way the fuel pumps run is with the battle short on. I get fuel through the filters but it won't start, and no white smoke when cranking it over, any suggestions? I would also like to convert it to commercially available filters if anyone has a list of kits or parts it would be much appreciated.
I can only speak from my experience with the MEP004A units, but I believe the overall fuel system configuration is similiar among the 004-006 generators. I believe the only way to prime the fuel system is with the battle short switch on. On the MEP4 models I run the fuel pumps (with battle short on) until I hear the pumps "laboring", then turn off the battle short switch and go through the start sequence. Once the engine is running, the fuel pumps will run as needed to keep the day tank full.

As to the fuel priming method, I always disconnect the fuel line supplying the injection pump (IP) and place it into a gallon jug, turn on battle short switch until you see good steady fuel flow with no air bubbles. This could take a couple minutes to completely prime the filters and the lines. Once you see good fuel flow, turn off the battle short switch & quickly re-install the fuel inlet hose to the fitting on the IP. At this point try cranking with throttle cable about half-way out. Don't forget to hold switch in the start position until you see the freq meter swing close to 60 hz. At this point adjust freq to about 61 hz.

Another thing to check is the stop lever on the IP... On the Hercules 4-cylinder it is secured back in the run position. On that unit I believe you have an Allis Chalmers engine so I'm not familiar with the fuel stop lever, but check the TM for details. If the fuel stop lever is in the "no fuel" position, then IP gets no fuel to send at high pressure to the injectors and you'll get no light-off.
 
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Greasmnk1

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Tacoma, Wa
Thanks for the help, I haven't had to fire one of these beasties off in a while, so I went back to basics, I downloaded the TMs and figured out I forgot to set the dead run switch to run.
 

Isaac-1

Well-known member
1,970
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Location
SW, Louisiana
I don't have a MEP-006a, but do have a commercial Onan powered by a close relative of the same Allis Chalmers engine. Have you bled the diesel injectors to confirm you don't have air in the lines, and have you checked that you are getting return fuel from the return port on the top of the injection pump (it has a glass bead one way valve inside that can get gummed up) Mine uses a Roosa Master / Stanadyne DB or DC series injection pump (DCGFC-631 in the case of mine), these injection pumps have an internal kill solenoid which is powered by the 2 wires on the top of the pump, they also have 2 levers on the sides of the pump, one is governor speed setting for the internal mechanical governor (throttle cable would be connected here) and the other is an external kill switch. I am not sure is yours uses the internal solenoid or the external kill lever for shut down. I would suggest after careful surface cleaning to remove the side inspection window on the pump and check for "coffee grounds" which is sign guts are coming apart in the pump and it needs to be rebuilt, you may also want to remove the top cover on the pump as the kill lever sometimes sticks on these when stored and does not return to the run position if your not getting fuel past the injection point.

Ike

ps if you have to get the injection pump rebuilt be aware that parts for the DCGFC pumps are a bit more expensive and getting harder to find than the more common members of the DB family of injection pumps, when I had mine rebuilt 3-4 years ago I had to call several Diesel injection shops before I found one that would work on it, and they quoted me an extra $300 above their regular price for a DB series pump, ended up at almost $900 for the rebuild after adding unexpected parts that needed changing, this was on a running, but smoking low hour engine.
 

PeterD

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Location
Jaffrey, NH
The pumps run when there is oil pressure (or RPMs, I can't remember off the top of my head) and/or when the battle short is on. The feed from the day tank, to the final filter, to the injection pump is strictly gravity, if the day tank, and final filter have fuel it will start. When fuel lines are drained, I crack the inlet line to the injection pump, and wait for fuel to show at the pump, and all is (usually) good. I do have battle short on when I do this so the day tank keeps full, but normal operation does not need for this to be done.
 
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