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how to swap a m35 steering box

Theduece

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I dont no if im just bad at searching or what but when i tried to read up on how to do it i couldnt find a thing on it. so i hope this helps whom ever is doing one that never done one.

step one: unbolt your front 2 motor mounts you can leave the bolts in them just take the nut off. if yours is like mine the radiator hose is right on top of your bolt. i wrap a piece of string around the hose and pulled up from the top and was able to take the nut off (requires a friend to do) that way, the top of the bolt was a 24mm and the nut was a 18mm.

step two: jack the front of the truck off the ground to turn the wheels all the way to the left. for safety i set the truck back on the ground, then i took off the nut that holds the pit man arm on all i had was a 1 1/2in socket that worked. be sure to use wd40 on it and a impact gun will help. once the nut is off more then likely you will need a pitman arm puller rent one from local auto part store. i had to tap the puller over mine it was a bit small but still did the job.

step three: lifting the engine up to get to all the bolts on the box. i used a floor jack and a good size 4x4 piece of wood. if you use this method make sure the wood cover across the oil pan and DO NOT lift on the drain plug. using a small piece of wood will dent in the oil pan. you can use a engine lift or a chain hoist to avoid any damage. no you may ask how high do i go on mine i went bout 2-3in up. go as high as you need to be able to get the bolts out of the side cover. they will be a 14mm socket. once you take out all the bolts remove the side cover. reach up there and pull the pitman rod torwds the engine to free it off the cork screw it will prob move 1/2in or so.

step four:we got the engine up, pit man off, and the cork screw free. now we need to take loose the four bolts on top of the box they are also a 14mm top right bolt you will prob have to use a wrench to get it out. then find the wire that is coming out of the box should be able to unplug it. now lets go inside the truck and look at the dash there will be one bolt that hold the colum up there. it is on the right side of the colum. i dont remember what size bolt it is but once out swing the latch over. now then with a simple yank on the steering wheel the colum should slide out of the box. (keep up with all the shims they are important) slide it complety out make sure the wire isnt stuck in there to.

step five: lets now tackle the 4 bolts on the outer frame that hold the box to the frame they are a 16mm socket. get those out pull the braces off with the bolts. no the box is free. you should be able to (with the engine still lifted up) maneuver the box out of there.

step six: now you still got a cork screw and a column still in the truck. there is a big nut in the center of the steering wheel use a impact to remove it. i cant remember the size of the nut. once the nut is off use a puller to remove the steering wheel. once off simply slide the column thru the fire wall and rather thru the bottom or thru the left side.

to re assemble just go thru the steps back wards.

i hope this helps whom ever. i no i wish i had some thing like this when i was doing mine. ill try to get picts of the steps later on.
 

Stretch44875

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There is a front motor mount plate, has two bolts, that you can jack the front of the engine with. Probably a good idea to never jack on the oil pan, they dent very easy, and can block the oil pickup.

And none of these bolts are mm. 9/16, 3/4, 7/8, etc...

Nice write up, I just explained how to do this job to someone the other day.
 

Theduece

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All my bolts were metric couldn't get a standerd on them. I believe they have 2 different motor mounts on them I don't believe I have that plate
 

clinto

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All my bolts were metric couldn't get a standerd on them. I believe they have 2 different motor mounts on them I don't believe I have that plate
You may have the M44A1 style mounts. Two of my '67's are that way.

See: TM 9-2320-361-20P, Section II, Figure 2
 

clinto

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So are you guys rebuilding these on the bench, then reinstalling with the side cover off, or rebuilding them in the frame?
 

creekrider

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So are you guys rebuilding these on the bench, then reinstalling with the side cover off, or rebuilding them in the frame?
I was pulling my steering column so I could pull off the old rusty cab and replace.

On another note, where can I find the small shims that are on the output column. I buggered mine up when I pulled the shaft.
 

swampzr2

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Why are you guys rebuilding / replacing? Mine seems to have some slop in it and give out a "clunk" when I turn.... I think I may need to rebuild mine.

Anyone know what oil to fill with?
 

peashooter

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Completely rebuilding, in frame: NO way!
May be you could service/replace the bearings #7; but what about something as basic as replacing the Pitman-shaft oil seal #4...?

Read this thread, how to remove the steering box.


G.
Thanks Gringeltaube. My gearbox has no leaks, but it does apear to have more slop than I think it should (Slop being = turning the wheel before the pitman arm starts moving). I've been reading through the TMs trying to figure out what I can adjust without needing to remove the box from the truck. I'm not sure if its shimmed wrong, if the bushings need replacement, if the preload adjustment screw (12) needs adjustment, or all/none of the above.
I was hoping to start with the things I can do while its mounted, and then if they dont fix the problem, pull it and rebuild or replace it.
 

gringeltaube

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.............................I've been reading through the TMs trying to figure out what I can adjust without needing to remove the box from the truck. I'm not sure if its shimmed wrong, if the bushings need replacement, if the preload adjustment screw (12) needs adjustment, or all/none of the above.
.....................................
Getting off-topic here, but still better than starting a new thread...

Eventually the "slop" can be reduced by adjusting the preload screw a bit, but that will not restore the typical wear spots. Clearly, both stud-ends on the pitman shaft (what is in contact with the worm) seem to be the weak link of this design; followed by the soft-steel lock/ star washers, where they support the rollers. In most cases I have found those parts looking like in the pics below, while the worm + shaft & bushings, plus other parts were still OK.

So, if these stud sets were available in form of a replacement kit, or the studs alone at least, that would cure most of the "excessive slop" issues and then only the pitman shaft had to be pulled for rebuilding, but not the whole steering box and column.


G.
 

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