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M101 - convert to dump

wvu dodge

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I know I'm a new poster, and I've used the search function and read over the usual responses to these type of questions. Let me start off by saying that I have no intention of trying to use this trailer in its current form as a "dump trailer". So now that's out of the way, I'm interested in seeing how/if anybody has successfully modified their M101 trailer to dump. Also very interested if anybody has a story about attempting it doing more harm than good.

To show you I'm serious, I attached a picture of the trailer I just bought 2 days ago. I got a plate for it today and just used it tonight to help my sister move across town. Very impressed with it so far and happy with the purchase. I definitely have the only one in town.

I have some ideas of how to make it dump. One is to lengthen the tongue to a point above the axle and attach it to a new crossmember I will install between the bed frame. This would be re-inforced and triangulated as I see fit. Maintain the mounting points at the front of the bed, but replace with pins for easy removal. The attachment point at the crossmember would be heim joints to be able to pivot. This would give an angle of dump similar to if you lifted the tongue up in the air with the trailer unhitched. May not be steep enough depending on material.

Second option is is to fabricate a complete dump frame and hinge it at the rear. This would give a steeper dump angle, but require more work. The first option may still be easier accomplished by fabricating a new tongue (i'm thinking 2 x 4 box tubing if I do it).

My thoughts for lifting would be to use a 8 ton manual jack similar to whats used on a cherry picker, though I could be easily swayed for a 12 volt hydraullic system. I'm thinking of a scissor lift arrangement mounted off the tongue in front of the trailer bed. I'd have to be sure to get the geometry right before starting on any of this, but I think a lift arrangement on the front could be made to work.

So has anybody done anything similar, because I haven't come across any posts showing pictures.

SAM_0492.jpg
 

doghead

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If you were to convert it to dump. what do you intend to use it for and how often?
 

wvu dodge

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I already read that thread. Just read it again for at least the 3rd time to make sure I didn't miss something. I'm looking for info from somebody who has modified their trailer to reliably dump hydraulically. And by modify, I don't mean replaced 2 bolts with 1/2" quick pins.

I plan on hauling gravel, dirt, wood, brush, trash/junk. Most of what I would use this trailer for could benefit from being able to dump to unload.

Tried to load the 4 wheeler in it yesterday for fun...had to ram it through the wheel wells (but it did fit), so I won't regularly be hauling a 4 wheeler with it.
 

doghead

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For "regular use", I would make a full trailer frame and add rails under the bed. You may need new springs too.

BAsically reuse the bed and axle. Build the rest.

An M103(M105) is a much better choice, but bigger and heavier. It would require an axle change.
 

wvu dodge

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Fairmont, WV
Nope. Others have and leaned it was a poor choice to start with.
Thats the type of info I was looking for. I agree that the M105 would probably be a better starting point, especially if it needs completely redesigned anyway. The 101 is a pretty lightly constructed trailer and frame. I may give it a try for occasional use, though I know you'd be better off with a purpose built dump trailer.
 

wvu dodge

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Fairmont, WV
Well, anybody that read this thread probably thought I'd never be back. I decided to go the full frame dump as opposed to pivot on the rear axle. The more I thought about it and played with things, it seemed like a huge compromise, and still a fair amount of work to have something that bury's the tailgate in the ground and won't dump steep enough.

Went with a 12v hydraulic power pack. Still need to re-wire, and remount the tail lights, but I'm very pleased with it. This picture is dumping under hydraulic power. Had to pull it out of the garage for the head room. My design was for a 50 degree dump angle, but because I had to account for "real world" obstacles, I ended up with 48 degrees. Very pleased with the outcome.

I also widened the area between the fenders since I bought it. So my 4 wheeler now fits. They were 45.5" and now I have 48.5" between the fenderwells now so I can fit the 4 wheeler, sheets of plywood, drywall, etc... I have since bought an M1101 also, and the fact that they are only 7ft 2" long still baffles me. Why anybody that would make a trailer 45" wide, or 7ft long I'll never understand, but I guess the military does not think in 4ft or 8ft intervals. they spec exactly what they need and thats it.
 
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wvu dodge

Member
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Location
Fairmont, WV
Well I can't manage to attach a picture. Don't remember what I did in my first post to get it to attach. So I guess you'll have to take my word for it. See the picture in Post #1, and imagine it with the bed tilted to 48 degrees and you get the idea.
 
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wvu dodge

Member
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Location
Fairmont, WV

Nice. I had seen that thread and was hoping you'd update it with pictures in a little more detail. That should work good since you can take the tailgate off. Looks like you made it a quick removal too. I have some 1" heim joints that are meant to fit in 2x2x1/4" box tubing that I was trying to figure out how to incorporate as my hinges on my full dump bed. Would have worked very well for a pivoting tongue modification, but could not figure out a way that I liked to make them work as a hinge on a full dump.

I ended up using Sch 40 1-1/4" pipe, and 1-3/8" round bar for hinges. They fit perfect together. I tried every combination of round bar and pipe smaller than that and nothing fit quite right, but those two work great.
 

dnote

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I wish these things were bolt on. Unable to weld means I have to wait til mine break then find someone with the skill and brain power to fab something up.
 
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