Just purchased MEP-002A - Rent our home - suggestions on best way to use?

[445gsdss]

Hi, I just scooped up a MEP-002A on a M101A2 trailer from Craigslist. We purchased it for our annual 72+ hour power outage that seems to occur at least once every year. They always seem to occur in conjunction with a snow storm that leaves us stuck during that time. I had been ready to purchase big-box genny when I came across the MEP002. I jumped on it.

Anyhow, we rent our present home and I'd like to minimize investment in it. We really only want to run our fridge, a couple of space heaters and some lamps during a power outage. While I'm ok if it is the only logical deployment of the MEP to go with the full blown transfer switch into panel solution, I'm wondering if there is viable option that doesn't require modifications to the home? Is it possible/practical to wire some sort of breakout box on the generator and run some extension cords? The previous owner thought that might cause an issue due to not balancing the load.

Thanks for any help.

 

[steelandcanvas]

This may work for you:
http://www.interlockkit.com/

 

[steelypip]

A panel interlock is the cheapest solution that will probably meet code. If your house (rented or not) burns down, you will need to prove that you met code to the insurance company. Be forewarned that some municipalities don't allow panel interlocks for generator connections and insist on a switch instead.

 

[1800 Diesel]

Order 2 of these: http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electr...enerators/120-240-VAC-GENERATOR-PANEL-BOX.axd

Wire each one to both 120v legs & then you'll also have the option for 240v. Use proper grounding & neutral connections and make sure you ground the generator chassis. Only problem with these is that they come with a connector on the rear side that has to be adapted to your wiring. (It doesn't come with both sides of the connector.) I plan to do this for several of mine for folks that need the extension cord method only (for construction job sites) or for folks that don't want to spend the money on a whole-house arrangement with transfer switch, etc.

Kevin

 

[Isaac-1]

Running in 120v only mode and running extension cords will work. Just make sure the cords are heavy enough.
Ike

 

[DeucesWild11]

Order 2 of these: http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electr...enerators/120-240-VAC-GENERATOR-PANEL-BOX.axd

Wire each one to both 120v legs & then you'll also have the option for 240v. Use proper grounding & neutral connections and make sure you ground the generator chassis. Only problem with these is that they come with a connector on the rear side that has to be adapted to your wiring. (It doesn't come with both sides of the connector.) I plan to do this for several of mine for folks that need the extension cord method only (for construction job sites) or for folks that don't want to spend the money on a whole-house arrangement with transfer switch, etc.

Kevin

Question, still a novice to the MEP's but why would you need two of these units, can't you just hook up one of them?

 

[steelandcanvas]

Order 2 of these: http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electr...enerators/120-240-VAC-GENERATOR-PANEL-BOX.axd

I plan to do this for several of mine for folks that need the extension cord method only (for construction job sites) or for folks that don't want to spend the money on a whole-house arrangement with transfer switch, etc.Kevin

That might not be legal on construction sites...they require GFCI receptacles for temporary power.

 

[1800 Diesel]

Question, still a novice to the MEP's but why would you need two of these units, can't you just hook up one of them?

Depending on how much he wanted to load the unit (in 120v only), the QTY (2) 20 amp outlets wouldn't provide all the capacity available. IIRC, the MEP2 produces 52 amps or more in 120v mode. When he mentioned 2 space heaters, I assumed he meant the 1500-watt "milk house" type--these two alone would consume most power available at the two 20 amp outlets provided by only one of the panel boxes. Theoretically he would have about 7 amps available from each of the outlets, so he might have a problem with adding the fridge depending on starting amps, but with a little power management I agree with you that he could make it work with just one, but again the full output of the generator would not be available.

An afterthought to this discussion--with the convenience outlet (allowing what 15 amps?) then yes the one panel should work fine....

Also, for construction site units, I just like having more "base outlets" available in lieu of daisy-chaining multiple cords from one zone to another...but for home use, one panel should be good-to-go.

Kevin

 

[storeman]

It won't meet code but many just buy a drier plug, disconnect the drier and back-feed the panel through the 30 amp drier circuit to the desired circuits ensuring the house main breaker is off. Your unit produces 26 amps 220 and the drier hookup is very likely 30 amps.

Gives you 220 as needed and 110 as well. Just need a #10/4 or 10/5 SOOW cable if within 50' of the receptacle. It is what I would do (with care) in a rental. Certainly safer than extension cords IMO, so long as you use care.

Jerry

 

[n1oty]

I use a CEP power distribution box for portable operation. It gives me multiple GFCI protected receptacles. New ones are expensive, but used ones on Fleabay are generally reasonable. They are available with either locking receptacles or standard receptacles. They are approved by UL for this purpose in all weather.

John

 

[Isaac-1]

On the topic of distribution boxes that are not insanely expensive, check out this 30 amp 120/240 box http://www.smarthome.com/56099/Cole...table-Temporary-Power-Distribution-Box/p.aspx (it is available cheaper at other locations online, ebay, etc.)

 

[jdknech]

It won't meet code but many just buy a drier plug, disconnect the drier and back-feed the panel through the 30 amp drier circuit to the desired circuits ensuring the house main breaker is off. Your unit produces 26 amps 220 and the drier hookup is very likely 30 amps.

Gives you 220 as needed and 110 as well. Just need a #10/4 or 10/5 SOOW cable if within 50' of the receptacle. It is what I would do (with care) in a rental. Certainly safer than extension cords IMO, so long as you use care.

Jerry

this is what i do in my house... But i would NEVER do this with a rental house.. in my experance, if it can be screwed up, more then likely a renter will do it.. this is unless you know who you are renting to, and trust them with your life (or the electric company's linemen's life) If the main breaker isnt turned off when power is back fed, very bad things can happen..

 

[DeucesWild11]

Kevin, thanks for the info. Have you used the panel that you listed the link for? For $8.99 it seems rather cheap but I do like cheap as long as it is quality. Could be that it was a bulk purchase. Even at 18.99 or 29.99 I would think it's a good deal based on what you are getting.

Again thanks for your input. I am thinking of mounting this unit to my 002 to make a 220 quick connect/disconnect easy.
-Brian

 

[storeman]

JDKNH "this is what i do in my house... But i would NEVER do this with a rental house.. in my experance, if it can be screwed up, more then likely a renter will do it.. this is unless you know who you are renting to, and trust them with your life (or the electric company's linemen's life) If the main breaker isnt turned off when power is back fed, very bad things can happen.."

I agree, but he is the renter.
Jerry

 

[jdknech]

JDKNH "this is what i do in my house... But i would NEVER do this with a rental house.. in my experance, if it can be screwed up, more then likely a renter will do it.. this is unless you know who you are renting to, and trust them with your life (or the electric company's linemen's life) If the main breaker isnt turned off when power is back fed, very bad things can happen.."

I agree, but he is the renter.
Jerry

AH- I missed that part..

 

[Munchies]

I rent. (military family ...always on the move) With permission I ran conduit over to a RV/camper power box, and replaced the plug with the 60 amp nema outlet. Then I run a 40' 6/4 SO over to the genset. It all goes into a 50 amp breaker. I manually shut on/off the main breaker and the backfeed breaker. No one else is allowed to touch the panel. An interlock would be ideal here.

 

[445gsdss]

Order 2 of these: http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electr...enerators/120-240-VAC-GENERATOR-PANEL-BOX.axd

Wire each one to both 120v legs & then you'll also have the option for 240v. Use proper grounding & neutral connections and make sure you ground the generator chassis. Only problem with these is that they come with a connector on the rear side that has to be adapted to your wiring. (It doesn't come with both sides of the connector.) I plan to do this for several of mine for folks that need the extension cord method only (for construction job sites) or for folks that don't want to spend the money on a whole-house arrangement with transfer switch, etc.

Kevin

Thanks Kevin, All! A lot of great suggestions! Going back to the 2 boxes suggested, I was digging through the box of extras that the genny PO provided. There was one of the exact model outlet box suggested in with the other items.

My question is, it does have some sort of modular connector on the back. Does anyone know the type connector and the wiring/pin-out? I only have the enclosure, there is no box and I didn't notice a manufacturers name on it...

Regarding proper grounding, the generator is sitting on a M101A2 trailer. Can the generator be grounded to the trailer, then the trailer to a ground rod? I would like this (genny on trailer) to be permanent, so any suggestions on gauge wire to use?

Just curious, "use proper neutral connections?" Could you expound? I won't be doing this myself but would like to understand exactly what to ask for.

- Is it ok to use a galvanized ground rod? (I see Copper coated)

- What type/gauge wire for the ground connection?

I will be having my cousin (electrician) wire all of this, but would like to understand it myself as well

Thanks!

 

[Triple Jim]

Since the house is already grounded, you won't use a ground rod, but rather connect the generator's frame to the earth ground of the house. Also the generator's bonding wire from ground to neutral should be disconnected.

 

[1800 Diesel]

Kevin, thanks for the info. Have you used the panel that you listed the link for? For $8.99 it seems rather cheap but I do like cheap as long as it is quality. Could be that it was a bulk purchase. Even at 18.99 or 29.99 I would think it's a good deal based on what you are getting.

Again thanks for your input. I am thinking of mounting this unit to my 002 to make a 220 quick connect/disconnect easy.
-Brian

I have several of these on hand & they're pretty decent quality. Had to get off this project for awhile setting up two MEP4 models for family members. On the SC panels, I had planned to use an ammo box to install them in, but again have put the project on the back burner. The only down side is the "proprietary" connector on the rear side of the panel as I mentioned before.

Kevin

 

[1800 Diesel]

Since the house is already grounded, you won't use a ground rod, but rather connect the generator's frame to the earth ground of the house. Also the generator's bonding wire from ground to neutral should be disconnected.

Thanks Jim for the clarification!