Cold weather radiator and battery issues

[UPFINN]

Hello all.

I took the deuce out for about a 40-50 mile drive to pick up some lumber Thursday and everything was fine. Yesterday an arctic front came through dropping temps near 0F and now all hades broke loose when it comes to vehicle issues. Today when I went to start the truck, the batteries had froze, but that was the least of my problems when I noticed quite a bit of coolant under the truck. It is leaking from the rubber pad in which the mounting bolt/spring attaches the radiator to the frame. I did not see any leaking higher up in the radiator tubes, so it as at the bottom.

I am debating what to do to fix this issue.

I will likely need to use the truck again in the next week or two to pick up some stumps and more lumber.

#1: I can add more coolant along with some additive to plug blockages until it leaks again. However I heard that using additives to plug leaks can cause damage.

#2: I could drain and flush radiator, solder leak, finally get that heater core installed, and add new coolant for winter along with a anti-cavitation additive.

I would rather do option #2, but can it be done in sub-zero temperatures? I was told everything would keep freezing up as I worked on it and hoses would be brittle. I do know people with large heated garages and I could see if I could do it there instead. I could actually fit the truck into my garage with the soft top and windows down. This would force me to finally get around to sanding and re-sealing those window frames

However, before I can get to a garage I have to get the truck started! The 650 CCA amp batteries for summer just won't start the truck in this cold . I was thinking of putting a heated jacket around the batteries and turn it on hours before I need to run the truck, as I was told due to the high compression these batteries should be enough to start it if they are warm. Right now I have to bring each battery into the house to warm and then charge them. I would rather not sink in another $200 for 1000 CCA batteries.

Until we find a plow truck as a secondary work vehicle, we still can't store the deuce yet as I still have to use it. It is amazing how the road salt coats the frame and corrosion/rust is not far behind.

 

[doghead]

Your batteries should not freeze. They freeze when they are no good.

You should not bring batteries in to a home to charge. They give off deadly and explosive gasses.

Have you ever tested your antifreeze?

 

[UPFINN]

I don't know for sure if they are frozen. They show no bulge. However, below freezing the performance really drops.

I have not tested the antifreeze as I planned to change it soon as weather conditions permit.

 

[Karl kostman]

If you just ran the truck the batteries should have had enough charge in them to NOT freeze??? As far as you radiator issues and the fact that you have not tested your antifreeze for strength, well there is a chance that the radiator may be the LEAST of your problems!! When you get it running again make sure you check the frost plug holes etc. and GOOD LUCK with this one!
KK

 

[UPFINN]

Hopefully the leak isn't a sign of ice, and that the difficulty starting is not cause by ice in the water pump creating drag! (I don't know if this is possible). The fluid dripping out has really decimated the ice and snow on the driveway, so perhaps the strength is ok. I guess I'll only know if the frost plugs pop.

All I can do now is bring my batteries in to warm up, take them into the garage to charge, and try starting it so I can limp up the road to my neighbors garage this week. Should I open the radiator cap to relieve pressure if ice is forming?

Tomorrow I will try getting to town to pick up anti freeze, distilled water, napa cool or water wetter, solder, sealing aditive, along with a screw in block heater and battery heating pad. Anything else I should pick up?

 

[OD_Coyote]

You may want to consider purchasing a coolant tester. They are inexpensive and come in handy in situations like yours.

 

[gimpyrobb]

The bolts on the bottom of the radiator are not attached to the bottom of the radiator. If you have coolant dripping from them, it is from the sides or middle of the radiator. If you have a minor leak, regular table pepper will stop the leak. Yes it can clog passages, but it can be removed easier than that "stop leak" they sell.

 

[Dhallftworth]

I've got a radiator leaking from what it sounds like the same spot. For your battery issue, I've had batteries explode, they don't come or charge around anything that I deem as important. The battery warmer should be able to be mounted on the truck with the batteries, I would warm and charge them there. Look at getting a block heater. They make a dip stick style, that goes down the dip stick tube and you just plug it in to an extension cord. When you can afford new batteries, I would go with an optima blue top. I personally don't put any kind of stuff in my radiators to stop a leak, why bandage, when you can repair? Solder and a stick torch works wonders.

 

[UPFINN]

Well I brought the batteries in the house overnight and checked the voltage. It is right at 12.6 which is good. I put them back in the truck and still it barely turned over. I would assume that 650 cold crank amp batteries are just too small to turn the engine when the fluids and oils are cold. My friends diesel pickup truck needs two 1000 CCA batteries.

A block heater would solve this problem. I read bad reviews on the dipstick heaters and magnetic heaters look the easiest but I'm afraid they would burn the oil. Freeze plug heaters look like a pain in the a$$ to install as I would have to punch out the freeze plugs and deal with the coolant, which I would rather not do outdoors. I was thinking of putting a T connector on the fitting below the thermostat with a screw in heater plug. The other end of the T will go to the heater core I need to install.

Before I can get the truck to the shop I need to get it moving. I could either get bigger batteries, a magnetic heater, or use the propane salamander tube heater under the engine to warm it.

 

[swbradley1]

I've had two of the KAT magnetic block heaters melt down and one smoked so bad you could see the traces going up the side of the oil pan.

I suggest an in the block heater that goes directly into the water.

A warm engine should easily start with a pair of 650s but my 1150s will spin it like a top.

 

[doghead]

Why buy and install additional band-aids? Just buy better batteries.

 

[steelandcanvas]

I suggest an in the block heater that goes directly into the water...

Steve hit the nail on the head again. This is the route to go.

 

[cafr11901]

I just got my M35A2 a couple of months ago - and the first thing I had to replace was the batteries. I went with the 7235 batteries from NAPA in Marquette. My truck started up Saturday night. I wanted to see if it would or not given how cold it was. I took it to grab some ice cream for my wife. It said 7 degrees at our house. My batteries fit right in the battery box and they had them in stock. Good luck.

 

[UPFINN]

Well I got the truck started yesterday when it was around 30F. Had to pull the throttle out a bit to get it going. When I have to get it started to move I'll just use the salamander.

Still waiting on when I can use the garage. Looks like it will be next week. Until then I am getting my supplies and tools ready.

I will be draining the cooling system, flushing it, pulling the radiator, and soldering the leak.

I am also going to order up a Kats circulating tank heater to install while the radiator is drained. I am going to try installing the hot water cab heater. I pulled out my heater kit parts and I have everything except a few bolts, hoses, and the blower motor. I will get a motor and fan wheel from NAPA.

Hopefully next week I will have all the parts together and I plan to document the tasks with photos. Perhaps I will put together a good tutorial for installing the cab heater and the circulating tank heater. It took quite a bit of looking around to figure out how it needed to be done.

If I have time I may use my new tire tools to take off the wheels and check the brakes and wheel bearings. Picked up a torque multiplier, axle nut socket, new bottle jack, jackstands, impact gun sockets/hose, and torque wrench to compliment the basic issue tire iron and cheater pipe.

 

[ATPTac]

Well I got the truck started yesterday when it was around 30F. Had to pull the throttle out a bit to get it going. When I have to get it started to move I'll just use the salamander.

Still waiting on when I can use the garage. Looks like it will be next week. Until then I am getting my supplies and tools ready.

I will be draining the cooling system, flushing it, pulling the radiator, and soldering the leak.

I am also going to order up a Kats circulating tank heater to install while the radiator is drained. I am going to try installing the hot water cab heater. I pulled out my heater kit parts and I have everything except a few bolts, hoses, and the blower motor. I will get a motor and fan wheel from NAPA.

Hopefully next week I will have all the parts together and I plan to document the tasks with photos. Perhaps I will put together a good tutorial for installing the cab heater and the circulating tank heater. It took quite a bit of looking around to figure out how it needed to be done.

If I have time I may use my new tire tools to take off the wheels and check the brakes and wheel bearings. Picked up a torque multiplier, axle nut socket, new bottle jack, jackstands, impact gun sockets/hose, and torque wrench to compliment the basic issue tire iron and cheater pipe.

I'm curious to see your cab heater install, I need to install one on our truck. Also if you don't mind me asking, where did you get your torque multiplier, and how much was it? I'm looking into getting one for easier wheel removal and installation.

Also does anybody know which Optima batteries to get for the M35's? I browsed their site and I'm assuming just get the highest CCA rating? My batteries are getting weak and I'd rather spend a little more money and get a much better battery that will last longer.

 

[UPFINN]

I'm curious to see your cab heater install, I need to install one on our truck. Also if you don't mind me asking, where did you get your torque multiplier, and how much was it? I'm looking into getting one for easier wheel removal and installation.

Also does anybody know which Optima batteries to get for the M35's? I browsed their site and I'm assuming just get the highest CCA rating? My batteries are getting weak and I'd rather spend a little more money and get a much better battery that will last longer.

I don't think there are complete instructions for the heater available. I just went to chapter 23 of http://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/M35/TM9-2320-209-20-3-4.pdf. I shows decent detail of the placement of the heater core, along with ducting. Hot water and fuel fired heater are both vented the same way. Blower motor is grounded to frame with one wire going to a 3 position switch with a resistor for high and low speeds under the instrument panel. Of course this is mounted near the pull knobs for the defrost and damper.

I got my torque multiplier from http://www.cheaterwrench.com/. Yeah it's probably from Asia due to the cheap paint and metal defects but it is pretty beefy, seems to work good, and comes with a nice assortment of impact sockets, including a metric equivalent 1.5 inch hex socket and a square budd socket. Case had enough room left in it to keep most of the common sockets I use with my impact gun and air wrench, along with a socket adapter set.

Those Optima batteries look pretty fancy . Maybe someday...

My current batteries are around 650CCA, and it is just barely enough to start the truck with a cold engine at 32F with the throttle out two notches and perhaps a shot of ether. Since I am going to be draining the cooling system I am going to install a circulating coolant heater and maybe I won't have to switch to larger batteries. If I have to, I would go with something between 800 and 1000CCA at least.

 

[UPFINN]

Well it looks like it will be until around Christmas when I can get to a garage. Until then I am working on loosening fittings and assembling the cab heater.

I am trying to remove the square head npt plugs on the water pump and manifold. I am using crescent wrenches with a hammer and they just wont budge. Even power lube and heating with a torch won't work. I would like to use my breaker bar and impact wrenches but can't find 4-point sockets in the 7/16, 9/16, and 11/16 sizes. Drilling these plugs out is not an option and neither is welding something to them.

Anyone have any ideas? The plug on the manifold have never been removed. They had perfect paint on them and the engine is only 7000 miles old. The plug on the water pump has white material around it. Either some type of anti sieze or corrosion.

As the weather gets cold the batteries are struggling even more to start the truck, even when I warm the batteries. Might just get the biggest ever starts (850cca) from wallyworld or get refurbished group 31 or 27 batteries from Interstate Batteries. Their distributor warehouse in Upper Michigan dosn't get many refurbs and when they do they go quick.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Heat them with a torch first.

 

[UPFINN]

Heat them with a torch first.

I did heat it with a torch, although it had a weak flame as the fuel canister was cold. I am going to give it another try right now. If that fails I will just find some 8 point sockets so I can break out the heavy tools.

 

[dabtl]

My cold weather issue is this: Is it too cold to go outside? If the answer is yes, the truck can wait till Spring.