Other boost options

[twomorestrokes]

The leaf blower Monza video is awesome! About as practical as a 500 HP 6.5 too.

 

[skysix]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-INMo8fyTQE

 

[Hollowman]

Twomorestrokes,
That's a really sharp setup and exactly what I would like to do to my M1009. Did the necessary gauges, Boost and EGT, come from the Burb too or did you have to go aftermarket for those? Also, where did you mount them in the cab? I was reading somewhere that the Isuzu TD engines used the GM-8 turbo as well so I'm hoping that I will be able to track something down. What year was the 6.5 Turbo first offered on the suburban? Again, really nice build, I like the sweat copper joints, that'll oxidize to a nice O.D. Green color before too long.

 

[Hollowman]

Twomorestrokes,
Please disregard my questions above. I just read through your build thread and it's obviously all there. Should've read that first oh well, still a really sweet build that I hope to do myself one day.

 

[HETvet]

What about propane injection for more boost...?

propane is a fuel source in a diesel motor. must have the air thee to burn the fuel. long story short, it can and will damage your motor.

 

[Nathanater]

propane is a fuel source in a diesel motor. must have the air thee to burn the fuel. long story short, it can and will damage your motor.

Why? I haven't had any problems with propane in my n/a 6.2. Only when I turn it up too much it starts to knock a little but that's expected. I've seen what either does to an idi diesel but propane won't do the same thing will it?

 

[HETvet]

The 6.2 and 6.5 motors are both IDI. To much fuel will shoot EGT s through the roof. PAIN also is "dry" meaning it doesn't lubricate or have liquid like propertys. It also burns at a different rate.

Just look and see what dry firing the injectors does to them.

 

[Nathanater]

The 6.2 and 6.5 motors are both IDI. To much fuel will shoot EGT s through the roof. PAIN also is "dry" meaning it doesn't lubricate or have liquid like propertys. It also burns at a different rate.

Just look and see what dry firing the injectors does to them.

I haven't seen the EGTs get out of hand. No more than with diesel mixed with oil and ATF and fryer oil from thanksgiving. And I didn't have any luck finding a video about dry firing the injectors.

 

[marks86]

does anyone have a picture of a supercharger on a cucv?

 

[HETvet]

Cavitation, air in the fuel lines, exc. All of the above fuels are also horrible for injectors, injection pumps, and turbo seals. Not to mention they have less BTU than D2 meaning less power.

 

[patracy]

I've played with a number of diesels over the years.

Powerstrokes, Duramaxes, Cummins, VM, VW, and I've owned a few 6.2's and 6.5's. The return on investment is too little on turning up a 6.2 outside putting on a turbo setup. (I'd advise a 6.5 turbo setup due to cost vs yield)

Sure you can turn the boost up, add a supercharger, fog it with propane or even nitrous. But you've got two major issues with a stock 6.2/6.5. The compression ratio is around 21:1 and the blocks are weak.

I have a 6.5 turbo setup on my 6.2 in my M1008. Is it a race engine? Hardly. It might have 200hp honestly, if that. But it certainly woke it up from the stock power levels. And I'm fine with that.

If you absolutely must find a way to get 500hp out of a 6.2. Before you even start pricing custom IP's, turbos, injectors, exc. I'd suggest you price: a 599 block, have said block worked. (Magnafluxed for cracks, then blueprint to spec) Full set of studs for mains and rods. Have the rods and crank balanced. Have the rods peened. Then price a set of malory coated pistons in 18:1. Then you can have the heads worked, head studs, and you'd probably want to get the block and heads fire ringed. Once you've laid out about $4K in bottom end costs. Then you can start looking at a nice IP. Have the pop pressures and nozzles changed on the injectors, and installing a larger turbo setup. (Another $2K at least to go) All that work, and you might have a 6.2 that could put out 300hp safely.

I'd buy a 200K mile 5.9 cummins from the junk yard, swap it in. Toss a set of studs into it. Some springs. And a HE351 turbo from a CR cummins, tweak the pump, and have 300hp all day long. For way less.

 

[Nathanater]

Guess it's a good thing I don't have the expensive turbo on it! Haha. It's not really the fuel but how dirty it is that makes it bad for all those items. Except maybe the seals. I don't run any of them straight and use the propane for extra go power.

 

[KevinsM1009]

Iceman3005,
To those who do the work(research& Brain/Knuckle Busting...)go the rewards. Your time has saved me much uncertainty with my upcoming 6.5L replacement for my worn out 6.2(rear main seal consumption=1 Gal 15W40 every3-4wks...)& finding the turbo(s) to eventually power it. Know that an original MOPAR guy (85 Ramchrgr, 35" tires, etc) really likes his BOWTIE and is going to do his own research also...Thank you for the history lesson.

 

[HETvet]

I don't think it's worth trying to turn a 6.X IDI in to a race motor. But it's fun to tinker with. If the parts a cheep or free, I say go for it. All one has to do is read and study the forums out there to find parts that could be sourced from the salvage yard.

I have done this for the diamond precups, HX35 turbo, and some other odd and end parts. Total investment, $175.