I'm having a problem with new Doghead Relay

[Roc Rat]

Hi guys,, need some help,, I got the proper relay from NAPA and installed exactly as instructed. Printed the final photo and had it with me. The 1009 started fine before,, had a few false starts due to the old relay system, so I decided to change it. Now it won't start at all, new military batteries with a full charge. All lights come on when I turn the key, but when I hit the starter it's a dead stick. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[o1951]

Check grounds and use a test light to make sure relay is getting power.
If you do a search on doghead relay, you will find a number of posts on issues like yours, and the solutions.

 

[M1009 NEWBEE 2013]

Agree with o1951 but the DH Relay, if all 4 wires were landed correctly, should have not caused any issues just did it myself, took less than an hour and all was fine. sounds strange, there must have been an underlying issue prior? did you verify relay is correct one?

 

[Warthog]

Sometimes new parts are bad.

 

[steelandcanvas]

Can you "bench test" the relay?

 

[M1009 NEWBEE 2013]

Warthog may be correct, testing the relay as per SAC may wield the solution to the problem. this is a pretty easy install, even for a non mechanical type like myself, was real simple to get done.

 

[Roc Rat]

I got a new relay and connectors and will re do it tomorrow,, I'm thinking I may not have gotten the crimp right. It's so simple, it must be me. It had no issues at all before,, except for trying to start spontaneously,, hence the Doghead relay. Hopefully I can get it working in the morning.

 

[o1951]

For reliability, I crimp and then solder.

 

[rivcrazy2000]

I had the exact same thing happen to me, I had the new upgraded relay in for 8 months or so and one day had symptoms exactly as you described. Crawled under the dash looking for anything looking out of place and sure enough had a broken connector on the relay. Hopefully you can track it down easy.

 

[Recovry4x4]

When you turned the key, did you hear a solid clunk under the dash?

In reference to crimping, here's what I do. Strip the plastic insulator off the connectors (or buy them uninsulated) and use heat shrink. I would also suggest a high quality crimper as there is a major difference in the way they crimp. It's much easier to visually check the crimp without that chunk of plastic in the way. Lastly I shrink up heatshrink at the crimp.

 

[Mainsail]

In reference to crimping, here's what I do. Strip the plastic insulator off the connectors (or buy them uninsulated) and use heat shrink. I would also suggest a high quality crimper as there is a major difference in the way they crimp. It's much easier to visually check the crimp without that chunk of plastic in the way. Lastly I shrink up heatshrink at the crimp.

That's how I did mine except I fill the connectors with solder. Overkill but it keeps the moisture out.

 

[Roc Rat]

Nice looking job Mainsail,, I think I will use shrink wrap too. I was wondering this as well,, I've been checking out the setup while not bolted up under the dash,, could this make any difference? I didn't want to cover the connections and bolt the mounting plate back in before I knew it was working properly,, I know the black wire is the ground,, just thinking out loud.

 

[doghead]

Did you disconnect your batteries while doing the work?

 

[Roc Rat]

Yes,, first thing. Getting tired of those clamps,, pretty sure I messed up one of the crimps. It made no sound at all when I hit the ignition.

 

[Mainsail]

I was wondering this as well,, I've been checking out the setup while not bolted up under the dash,, could this make any difference? I didn't want to cover the connections and bolt the mounting plate back in before I knew it was working properly

I don't *think* the mounting plate provides a ground if that's what you're wondering. I know the relay is grounded through the wire because there's a similar relay that grounds through its mount- the one Doghead listed does not.

Of course, it should be pretty easy to check your connections while it's still hanging out of the dash, then bolt it back and try it.

 

[WARWAG]

Take a pic of it as is.

 

[WARWAG]

Here is a picture of my Dog Head Relay Mod. Im a big fan of liquid tape and heat shrink. When you strip back the insulation on your wire do so so you can double it over and push it into the metal of the connector. You should see it come out the other side a bit. Crimp and give a good tug on it while holding the connector. If it held take the shrink tubing that you slide on BEFORE you crimped the connector and slide it down over the connector insulation and part of the metal. Heat shrink it. After everything is in place and everything works as it should take some liquid taped and give a good coating over the exposed terminal ends. Don't go crazy with it. If you want more then let the first coating dry then add a second coating. This will help prevent shorts. After its all coated and ready to go back (your batteries were disconnected again after the test and before coating) place it in and re-connect your batteries. Test her again. I keep a second relay in my glove box as a back up.

 

[doghead]

Do you have a multimeter?

 

[WARWAG]

I believe this was the very first mod I did. The stock relay would get old and stick. The starter would run away. By the time you would be able to open your hood and disconnect the battery terminal your starter would be toast. This mod is one of the best things you can do when you first get a CUCV. General DogHead came up with this modification. Thanks Doghead.

 

[o1951]

That's how I did mine except I fill the connectors with solder. Overkill but it keeps the moisture out.

View attachment 466575

EXACTLY what I do, even on civy vehicles. Won't corrode or turn green in damp environment.