mep-003a running temp in a closed environment

[steelypip]

If you do find you need more ventilation in summer, I'd probably put some screened solenoid- or pressure-operated shutters down low and a roof turbine on top. Another option that does the same thing is just to cut a ridge vent or cupola in to the roof.

You can use duct butterflies on the roof turbine pipe to shut them off in winter.

 

[storeman]

screened solenoid

Okay, I give up and Google did also. Can you give me a redneck definition of a "screened solenoid"?
Jerry

 

[steelypip]

Hypen at the end: screened solenoid-operated or pressure-operated shutters. Used for generator sheds, etc. for ventilation only when the unit is on. Screened meaning 'with window screen' so as to keep critters out.

 

[storeman]

Comprende. Guess the solenoid would have to be wired off the generator. Sounds expensive.
Jerry

 

[ctfjr]

Comprende. Guess the solenoid would have to be wired off the generator. Sounds expensive.
Jerry

lol - doesn't have to be - I'm in the hvac business & we sell a 'weighted' damper that will swing open when the pressure gets to great (or reverse it so it gets sucked open on a drop in pressure). If you know any installing hvac contractors in your area they might have a 'junk' one laying around that they could give you.
They normally get mounted in a round duct (6,8,10 inches etc) and I would run the duct close to floor & penetrate the wall low (you really don't need any ductwork).

A small thermostatically controlled fan in the roof over the genset (small atic ventilating fan?) should do the trick in providing the negative pressure to open the damper and these fans are often rated 1000 or 1200 cfm. An alternative, if you have room for it, would be a salvaged air handler. Our hvac customers are often throwing old (perfectly good) units away. These AH's are rated anywhere from 800-2000 cfm and usually have multispeed motors.

 

[SteveH]

lol - doesn't have to be - I'm in the hvac business & we sell a 'weighted' damper that will swing open when the pressure gets to great (or reverse it so it gets sucked open on a drop in pressure). If you know any installing hvac contractors in your area they might have a 'junk' one laying around that they could give you.
They normally get mounted in a round duct (6,8,10 inches etc) and I would run the duct close to floor & penetrate the wall low (you really don't need any ductwork).

A small thermostatically controlled fan in the roof over the genset (small atic ventilating fan?) should do the trick in providing the negative pressure to open the damper and these fans are often rated 1000 or 1200 cfm. An alternative, if you have room for it, would be a salvaged air handler. Our hvac customers are often throwing old (perfectly good) units away. These AH's are rated anywhere from 800-2000 cfm and usually have multispeed motors.

Thanks for the suggestions. Unfortunately I don't know any of the local HVAC guys, but Ebay & Craig's list have been my constant companions on this project so far! I'd been thinking of using a squirrel cage fan to add some positive venting if needed; and I have found a source of slightly damaged regular attic (gable) vents, but with fixed louvers.

I think most of the heat in the shed is going to be radiated off the mufflers before they exit - I may wrap those with some insulation.

-Steve

 

[storeman]

Steve,
Given what you have built, I sense a bit of overkill here. Looks like it will work fine!

A year or two ago a member showed an enclosed trailer mounted MEP003a which he uses for job site power. When it is hot he opens the rear doors, cold he keeps them almost closed. Same thing I do with my shed.
Jerry

 

[SteveH]

Steve,
...I sense a bit of overkill here...

I know...