CUCV Cold Weather Start Experince

[stationjj]

I live in the Middle Tennessee area. The Temps are way below average of this part of the US.
Many other owners are used to the cold weather. In the midsouth its been over 10 years since we have hit single digits temps

It was a great time to see how my CUCV reacted.

At 12pm the temp was 8.4 degrees. The startup was slow, but it fired upped.
At 12:00 am with temp at 1 degrees. The GP system seemed good, but the Costco batteries didn't even turn the starter over.

Overall I am pleased. I feel my GP system is good. I think the batteries failed me or fuel Gel issues at such extreme temps?

I have a manual GP Switch on my CUCV. I was installed with CUCV from Government Auction. The manual GP isn't needed

My thoughts are if you got your GP system, electrical, and Fuel gel issues in check you will be good.

Something failed with me. Batteries or Fuel gel? I am thinking batteries.

Thank You,

 

[porkysplace]

I live in the Middle Tennessee area. The Temps are way below average of this part of the US.
Many other owners are used to the cold weather. In the midsouth its been over 10 years since we have hit single digits temps

It was a great time to see how my CUCV reacted.

At 12pm the temp was 8.4 degrees. The startup was slow, but it fired upped.
At 12:00 am with temp at 1 degrees. The GP system seemed good, but the Costco batteries didn't even turn the starter over.

Overall I am pleased. I feel my GP system is good. I think the batteries failed me or fuel Gel issues at such extreme temps?

I have a manual GP Switch on my CUCV. I was installed with CUCV from Government Auction. The manual GP isn't needed

My thoughts are if you got your GP system, electrical, and Fuel gel issues in check you will be good.

Something failed with me. Batteries or Fuel gel? I am thinking batteries.

Thank You,

I would say the batteries failed since it wouldn't crank over , fuel gelling has nothing to do with cranking , but will keep it from starting . What size batteries ? Not enough cold cranking amps in the batteries will toast a starter over time especially in extreme cold..
Do you use any kind of anti-gel additive in your fuel ?

 

[RSOPerator]

I have 1000+ cold crank amp batteries and my M1009 sets outside. It was -14 this morning here in Ohio, and she would not crank over fast enough to start. But, at about 0 degrees F, she does start up.

I run anti-gel/lubricating additive, and have not yet had an issue with gelled fuel this season.

 

[howardc]

I started mine last night in a garage with no issues, then stopped to get gas since I was on E. I pumped 10 gallons in and it wouldn't turn over, just crank and crank. I gave up for fear of draining the batts. It was -2 here last night. So it is now sitting in the parking lot of the gas station until I can go at lunchtime and try the old hold the gas pedal down trick to start it. If that fails it's supposed to warm up tomorrow to above 30.


my truck isn't used to this cold weather. I'm about 3 hrs from the OP so my CUCV is not prepped for this weather either.

 

[K9Vic]

We have had some really cold days here in North Texas and this morning it was about 21 degrees. On these cold days with my 6.2L Suburban I have the block heater plugged in and also a battery tender to keep them constantly charging. If the batteries are kept slightly charging they will perform normally in this cold due to the small warmth it generates (not much, but helps). I have started my truck on these cold days with no wait time on the glow plugs and cranked over fast. My M1031 I started on a past cold day and had to cycle the GP two times and cranked over fine, but not like my Suburban with the block and battery warm.

 

[Skinny]

Even with no assist, my M1031 has been able to start without issue in sub freezing temps. It is cranky, requires two cycles, and certainly does not want to go to work without a significant warm up period. All components need to be functioning in order for this to happen. If you have one week component like a few bad GP's, weak battery, cable corrosion, etc. the cold will find it quickly.

The assist REALLY helps out with cranking speed, warm up time, etc. and really is ideal if you need to get moving soon and want to pamper your engine with warm oil/coolant in a single digit day. Love your 6.2 and it will love you back long time

 

[00Buck]

It was -16F for the past two days here and my 1028 is starting fine. I plug in the block heater and have added additive to the fuel to prevent gelling. The truck sits outside all the time so when starting I hold the manual glow button in for 10sec, release for three and hold again for 10sec. It will fire and quit then one more 10sec hold and it will stay running. I do the after glow three sec on three sec off for about six cycles then let it warm up for about 15 minutes before driving it. Kind of a pain compared to a gasser but this is a cool truck.

 

[topgun217]

I live close to RSOPerator apparently since the temp. here was the same. My 1009 had to be cycled a few times using the manual GP button, but she fired right up after that. In this unexpected cold snap, I find that if I take the ole gal for a quick 5 mile drive daily, it helps to keep the batteries charged. I have never had a problem with the fuel gelling. My neighbor who also has a 1009 with a plow set up, came down yesterday to do the drive and his suddenly quit. After he put in 3 gallons of kerosene and let it sit for a few minutes, his fired right up.

 

[xenocath]

pretty cold here today as well. to my surprise truck fired up and ran like it always does. I hold the manual plug button to a 10 count mash the accelerator to the floor, hold it and crank like the visor says. I run no additives except a quart of 10w30 on each fill up and a quart of tranny fluid every once in a while.

 

[howardc]

My batteries were dead. deader than dead. I took them out, took them to AZ, and got new ones under a pro rated warranty ( saved me $60). Installed new batts and it fired right up. 11 degrees at the time.

Two batts for this truck, a batt and an alternator for my daily drive trailblazer. Rough couple of days.

 

[antennaclimber]

-7F this morning and the 1984 M1009 started right up on the first GP cycle with only 7 functioning glow plugs.

I am glad I added some anti gel treatment to the fuel the other day.

 

[Corvette1974]

The weather is beating my truck up. Its been around 0F the past week in NJ, going lower during the night. It started fine when it was 3F no problem. Followed the usual starting, one GP cycle and foot to floor. Started right up.....get to my friends house and it dies! It turns out that the fuel filter was clogged. I thought all was good as it was running/starting perfectly. Today, I go out and the truck doesn't have ANY power - completely dead.

Now I need to figure out this issue, whether or not the batteries just failed or there are other problems.

Gotta love old vehicles!

Will

 

[tbearatkin]

7 degrees here today in western TN. Key on, pedal to the floor, when wait light went out I started the M1009. It took maybe 1-2 seconds longer than it usually does to start. It was running within 5 seconds of turning the starter over. A little longer to warm up but no issue starting. I put new batteries in it about two months ago. IP was replaced April 2012, spin on filter was installed Oct 2013.

 

[Coal Cracker]

my truck isn't used to this cold weather. I'm about 3 hrs from the OP so my CUCV is not prepped for this weather either.[/QUOTE]

They don't run or start well with gas in them

 

[stationjj]

Update from Original Post

It seems my Costco Batteries don't like extreme cold temps.

This morning the temps warmed up to 14 degrees. The GP warm up was slow, but it started up. It makes me feel that I got my CUCV in good shape.
The goal was to test my CUCV in extreme temps, and learn more about my M1009 in the process. Overall I am pleased how my CUCV reacted in extreme cold.

Someone asked about my Costco Batteries. I can't recall specs on the batteries, and yes I do use a fuel additive.

stationjj

 

[scottladdy]

Here is my experience starting both of my trucks in the North East during this onset of the dreaded "Polar Vortex".

I have two CUCV's, an '84 (built late '83) M1009 and an '85 (built very early '85) M1008A1. Both have:

• New Air filters (Fram, wicked cheap at RockAuto)
• New Fuel Filters (stock Stanadyne rectangular military issue)
• Rebuilt fuel injector's using brand new Bosch nozzles (Badger Diesel)
• New plastic fuel tanks (only because I know the steel tanks will eventually leak, so changed them while I could, 31 gallon on the M1009)
• New fuel sending units (Spectra Premium, see fuel tanks above)
• Lift pumps that came on the trucks when I got them, look original but no real way to know (will be changing when it warms up, plus adding electric with prefilter when it's not so cold my fingers hurt in less than a minute holding a wrench)
• All wiring connections cleaned up and greased, especially the battery terminals and starter cables
• 24V starter
• Rebuilt Injection Pump (about 1 year old from Badger Diesel M1008A1, estimating no more than 2 years old on M1009 but came on truck so no way to know for certain)
• Fully functioning stock Glow Plug system - resistor bypass
• Sixteen good/new and tested AC60g's (eight per truck of course)
• No fuel additives (but they have both been filled up with Winter blend fuel available at local pumps since Fall)
• Doghead relay upgrade (Thanks again Eric!)
• 6TL's in the M1009 and Optima Red Tops M1008A1, both date codes in 2009 and same batteries from when I received the trucks.
• Compression tested and all 16 cylinders well within specifications.
• Rotella T6 synthetic motor oil.

Unless I am missing something (apologies if I am) everything else is as it was when I received the trucks relative to fuel/ignition and electrical starting systems.

Now for the actual experience. This is for both trucks, started daily during this latest onslaught of Global Warming. Coldest temps seen here (when the Dreaded Vortex has been closest to us) were about -10F overnight. Average has been about 5-6F.

Followed starting procedures indicated on visor (as I always do). GP's energized immediately on key turn (relay clicks nice and loud) and Wait Light lit for about 18 seconds. Foot to floor and turn the key. Fired up in under 3 seconds and stabilized in less than 5. Afterglow automatically kicks off at about 40 seconds. NO afterglow "pulsing", just a steady on. The truck's were ready to rock and roll in just over 1 minute.

This has been my experience. Your mileage WILL vary!

I will admit I am confused when people say they cycle the GP's more than once. I see no indication that the GP's are de-energized when the wait light goes out, at least not initially. So, if you feel you need extra heat for some reason why not just wait longer after the wait light goes out? Plus, you won't be letting the plugs cool down during the reactivation. I will defer to Antennaclimber or others more familiar with the stock GP controller to correct me if I am mistaken.

My other point on this practice is that good working GP's will reach maximum temp fairly quickly. I am not certain I understand what the extra time (beyond the already extended 18 seconds programmed into the controller for cold starts) is providing. The purpose of the GP's, as I understand it, is to provide a source of ignition heat when the engine may be too cold to ignite the fuel oil by compression alone, especially on the relatively slow RPM's the starter provides. They do this by glowing to white hot while being in the path of the injector spray. These tiny plugs aren't radiating much heat into the massive (by comparison) steel of the heads. They provide a source of ignition heat directly to the fuel spray.

One last side effect of this practice. By running the GP's longer, you are removing charge from your batteries, a charge you may prefer to go into the starter.

If my understanding is correct, if you have to cycle your GP's more than once you likely have at least one issue elsewhere that is preventing your truck from reliably starting.

I look forward to any corrections to my understanding.

 

[scottladdy]

Update from Original Post

It seems my Costco Batteries don't like extreme cold temps.

...

Someone asked about my Costco Batteries. I can't recall specs on the batteries, and yes I do use a fuel additive.

stationjj

Based on your symptoms, I would start by ensuring your batteries meet minimum specifications for CCA and reserve capacity. GP cycles are a significant draw.

Also, make certain your charging system is working properly. Are your battery connections all clean and tight? Especially battery posts, positive on starter and ground.

Also, consider that frequent starts without an extended charge time will quickly drain your batteries. Starting loads are the highest on your batteries. A good rule of thumb is 20 minutes of driving to recover the charge lost from a single start.

Lastly, most people don't realize this, but you must fully charge a new battery before you use it. Throw it on a 1 or 2 amp charger until it reads full charge before using it to start your vehicle. You will greatly extend the life of your battery. This is not one of those 'I heard it somewhere' or 'my buddy says' recommendations. There is a chemical explanation for this. I encourage everyone to do some research into the chemistry of lead acid batteries.

 

[scottladdy]

I started mine last night in a garage with no issues, then stopped to get gas since I was on E. I pumped 10 gallons in and it wouldn't turn over, just crank and crank. I gave up for fear of draining the batts. It was -2 here last night. So it is now sitting in the parking lot of the gas station until I can go at lunchtime and try the old hold the gas pedal down trick to start it. If that fails it's supposed to warm up tomorrow to above 30.


my truck isn't used to this cold weather. I'm about 3 hrs from the OP so my CUCV is not prepped for this weather either.

I respectfully submit that you have at least one issue that needs to be addressed. You say you were on "E". Does the fuel system need to be bled? Are you seeing any color smoke from the exhaust when you crank?

White smoke is usually indicative of raw fuel being exhausted. Black smoke indicates only partial combustion. This is during cranking only.

 

[howardc]

I respectfully submit that you have at least one issue that needs to be addressed. You say you were on "E". Does the fuel system need to be bled? Are you seeing any color smoke from the exhaust when you crank?

White smoke is usually indicative of raw fuel being exhausted. Black smoke indicates only partial combustion. This is during cranking only.

Hi Scottladdy

I went back the next day to start and the batts were dead, the wait light came on when I turned the key but quickly faded, which told me batts needed replacing. I bought two new ones and it fired right up. I drove it this morning to work and it fired right up with no problems. I waited a few seconds after the wait light went out to start to give the GPs more time. it was 15 or so here this morning.

In regards to the smoke; Every once in a while I may catch a puff of white smoke in my mirrors but usually there's no significant smoke. A corvette i had before this was a pack a day smoker.

 

[scottladdy]

Hi Scottladdy

I went back the next day to start and the batts were dead, the wait light came on when I turned the key but quickly faded, which told me batts needed replacing. I bought two new ones and it fired right up. I drove it this morning to work and it fired right up with no problems. I waited a few seconds after the wait light went out to start to give the GPs more time. it was 15 or so here this morning.

In regards to the smoke; Every once in a while I may catch a puff of white smoke in my mirrors but usually there's no significant smoke. A corvette i had before this was a pack a day smoker.

Excellent, glad you found the issue and are back on the road.