• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

CUCV Cold Weather Start Experince

AECS

Member
310
6
18
Location
Munford, TN
I don't know if 30 degrees counts as cold, but one cycle of the glow plugs, turn to start with pedal halfway down, 3 seconds later she is running.... My buddy has a 2011 Ram 3500 Cummins, and he is jealous at how easy my M1009 is to start.
 
So far the coldest Grommit (85 M1009) has been fired up in was -18 F. Not plugged in and lives outside year round. It took 2 cycles of the GP's, then fired up under full throttle. Granted it sounded like she was gonna throw all 8 rods out the side of the block, but she still came to life.

Still full militarized, Completely original including original IP, and yes she plays spy hunter with smoking out the neighborhood for the first 10 minutes. Fuel wise it's pump diesel with 2 stroke oil at 1oz:8Gal and a very heavy dose of Howe's winter additive.
 

atankersdad

In Memorial
In Memorial
1,878
15
0
Location
Glen Arm Maryland
I had starting issues since i have gotten this 1008. Tried oil pan heater, radiant hose heater, since i could only get out 3 of the old plugs. Well i took it to the local diesel shop and had them get the 5 remaining plugs out. All 5 snapped off and had to be retrieved. The truck now starts up on the first attempt even when down to 15, without using any 110v heat. I had them install a freeze plug heater but have yet to use it. Moving forward i will use the coolant heaters to get me instant heat, rather than needing them to start. Prior to the glow plug install i did install a new control card and the relay.
 

bryfor

Member
53
0
6
Location
dundee michigan
Before I could get around to replacing my glowplugs I used a trick to save starter wear and tear on the starter motor from the excessive cranking needed to get my 1009 going. Remove your air filter element then reinstall housing empty and clean.. use a paint stripping gun to blow hot air into the housing. Length of time...use your judgement. Have an assitant crank the motor and walla! She fired up up almost instantly saving alot of excessive cranking. Havent tried a hair dryer but would probabably work too...just might take longer
 

wcuhillbilly

Member
421
5
18
Location
Devils Tower, WY
Before I could get around to replacing my glowplugs I used a trick to save starter wear and tear on the starter motor from the excessive cranking needed to get my 1009 going. Remove your air filter element then reinstall housing empty and clean.. use a paint stripping gun to blow hot air into the housing. Length of time...use your judgement. Have an assitant crank the motor and walla! She fired up up almost instantly saving alot of excessive cranking. Havent tried a hair dryer but would probabably work too...just might take longer
Hot air, warm cylinders, and hot fuel are the keys to a happy starting 6.2 or any older diesel... While living at almost 9,000Ft elev in CO I went through 3 freeze plug heaters, 2 starters, and 2 batteries in one winter.
I finally had to put a Kats tank heater (circulating coolant heater similar to a tractor) on the fenderwell, a battery heater, and an oilpan heater, all were wired to switchs on the dash and then out to a single plug on the fender. thus one extension cord plugged into the fender and then select the heater or heaters you wanted on..... I ran the cord via a timer that that activated the system at 4am and shut it off at 8am, then again at 4pm to 8pm as these were the times that I would be typically needing to start the truck ( I lived at work so it was a two foot commute 100yrds)
As for the glow plug system, it is antiquated to say the least, It works but not well. Ether is a killer but sometimes the nessecary devil. The GP system leaves out the one key part that is needed, hot air.... the GP heats just the pre ignition chamber but not the whole cylinder. thus as you start to crank the heat soon leaves the chamber and enters the cylinder and is gone out the exhaust. Once I turbo'd my 6.2 I had a bear of a time starting it in any temp under 40*F Thus it became an extension cord heat junkie. All my GPs were new, but they just werent doing the trick.
Through some pondering my buddys and I came up with an idea that never really became a reality but wouldnt take much work.
Find the grid heaters from a 6bt Cummins, they are about 3.5x3.5 square and graft them into the intake of the 6.2 either by aluminum welding a bracket directly to the intake or by mounting intube for the air ducting system. for you Turbo'd guys, the aluminim cross over tube fromt he turbo is a prime location, anywhere is fine, just so the grids wont melt whats around them.. Wire them to some 12 relays off your existing GP relay (its 12v too, as the 24v is resisted down to 12 for the GPs) this way the chamber gets heat, but your also feeding it hot air down the intake.
My Cummins fires at -15*F with no assistance from the ext cord, so these little heaters are very powerful. just make sure your batteries are 1000Cold Crank Amps @ 0*F or you will soon have not juice as the heaters pull 240amps per cycle.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks