GAUGE ISSUE (oil & coolant temp)

[CUCVmike]

I am sorting out electrical issues on a mess created before me. The dash cluster has been replaced with another K5 civilian vehicle. The oil pressure gauge is incorrect and temperature gauge doesn't work at all. I get a spark when I plug them in but nothing on the coolant. I had another gauge that didn't end at 240 degrees and was a 260 degree gauge and it doesn't work either. The oil gauges I have are a 60 psi and an 80 psi I am assuming that the 80 psi is the correct one? Wasn't sure if the senders are bad or if the gauges won't work with the electrical wires? I just rebuilt the motor, added a banks turbo, and a tiny tach and don't want to blow this motor up thanks for the help, I just want to get it all right the first time.

 

[Warthog]

Sure would help if you tell us what truck you are working on.

The CUCV wiring for the instrument cluster is very different that the civvy version. If you want to use a civvy cluster you will need to do some major rewiring. The CUCV wiring diagrams are in the tech manuals.

All CUCV sending units are for idiot lights. Gauges require a different sending unit.

You are basically on your own.

 

[CUCVmike]

I assumed they swapped out the dash cluster, its got the oil pressure and temp gauge in the dash cluster not idiot lights. I have this temp sending unit
I have this oil sending unit not a great picture the wire leading to the bottom left of the photo is the oil sending unit, I didn't remove it yet.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Perahps some reading is in order to help you understand all the nuances of adding the factory gauges. Here's just what you need!
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...cluster-conversion-question&highlight=factory

 

[Warthog]

Sorry for the confussion on my first question. What truck are you working on?

 

[Barrman]

Just to be clear after Joe and Kenny both said it. There is 1 maybe 2 wires that are the same between a civilian full gauge panel and a CUCV panel.

Civilian idiot light panels are another totally seperate wiring set up from the gauge panel and CUCV panel. If the big plug for the gauge panel hasn't been changed around. No amount of rigging will make it work. You will either need to re-pin all of them or make a pig tail of some kind.

 

[CUCVmike]

Its a m1009, maybe I just need to add the mechanical temp and oil gauges for older Chevys that LMC truck sells since I want to keep them in the dash cluster. I already have a exhaust and boost gauge bolted below the radio that was added. Thanks for the advise, anyone know the part number for the mechanical temp sending unit as I don't think it comes with the gauge.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Its a m1009, maybe I just need to add the mechanical temp and oil gauges for older Chevys that LMC truck sells since I want to keep them in the dash cluster. I already have a exhaust and boost gauge bolted below the radio that was added. Thanks for the advise, anyone know the part number for the mechanical temp sending unit as I don't think it comes with the gauge.

See, that is the problem. The truck was never equipped with gauges other than the volt gauge and fuel gauge. Any effort to refit factory gauges will require some creative work. Please, read the info in the link I provided. I searched it out for your benefit, not mine!

 

[CUCVmike]

Many Thanks Recovry4x4, I'll go through the link tonight.

 

[richingalveston]

The plug to the gauge cluster is wired differently from the plug going to a cluster with idiot lights. The idiot lights have a hot wire to the bulb with the sending unit on the engine being the switch that supplies the ground. the sending units for gauges supply a variable resistance and not a ground. You can remove each wire from the plug and move them to the correct location on the plug for the new cluster. some new wire will have to be run. The warning and indicator lights in the speedo and fuel gauge will not be the same.

I think there are some errors in the spread sheet regarding the plug in my post about my cluster rebuild since yours has already been jacked with, I think you are going to have to take it one wire at a time.

rich.

 

[CUCVmike]

I printed everything out and some of my wire colors aren't on the wiring schematics here are pics of what I have
I am not sure what wire numbers 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 15, & 16 are?
I think the following are: 1 high beam, 2 dash, 3 ground, 5 oil pressure, 10 ground, 11 rt blinker, 12 left blinker, 13 seat belt, 14 open, 17 park brake light on fuel, 18 fuel gauge

 

[richingalveston]

attached is another spread sheet that I did showing the difference in the plugs from the civy cluster with gauges to the cucv cluster without. The third chart is what I intended to change the plug to but decided not to use the plug and use individual connectors.

position 1 one the plug is the high beam indicator. disregard the + and - signs that I put on the spreadsheet they are not correct.

hope this helps.