went to pull a buddy out yesterday afternoon, now my truck will not shift into 3rd gear at all. It also has trouble at times shifting from 1st to 2nd.all my vacuum lines have been changed, however I did bypass the vacuum regulator a few months ago and the truck has ran great.the transmission fluid does have a slight burn smell. Any ideas before I take it into the shop.
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I think my transmission is smoked?!?!
- Thread starter asg13
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I've deleted your duplicate posts in another thread.
Do not cross post an issue.
One issue/one thread.
Why would you "bypass" the VVR? It cannot shift properly with out it. You may have ruined your clutches with that move.
Do not cross post an issue.
One issue/one thread.
Why would you "bypass" the VVR? It cannot shift properly with out it. You may have ruined your clutches with that move.
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Check to make sure the vacuum pump is working. If you bypass the vacuum regulator it will shift straight from 1st to 3rd most of the time. You don't say what model you have, if it has the 4.56 axle ratio you can get by with the regulator bypassed. The lower ratio axles (numerically) will cause extra heat build up from the torque converter slipping and possible clutch damage from being in 3rd at low engine speed.
If you are going to put a heavy load on the truck (like pulling a stuck truck out), you should manually put your truck in first gear and low range on the transfer case to put less strain on engine and transmission.
Good luck.
If you are going to put a heavy load on the truck (like pulling a stuck truck out), you should manually put your truck in first gear and low range on the transfer case to put less strain on engine and transmission.
Good luck.
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OK, doesn't sound like the Sidekick should have cause much strain. I'd check the vacuum pump is working and the modulator. Maybe something failed coincidentally.
Barrman
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A dry modulator just means it isn't leaking fluid.
Checking the function of it is how you check it.
Checking the function of it is how you check it.
Skinny
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Ok so let's hammer out basic auto trans diag...some of the most basic things you can do which have not been reported on yet is checking fluid level and condition. If not correct, remedy the situation before going any farther. If they appear ok, suggest investing in a new filter and some new Dexron III anyways. It's a whopping 4-5 quarts, if you can't afford it you can't afford to drive a car. If that doesn't solve the problems, you need to do some basic fluid pressure checks. This will require an oil pressure gauge (higher than engine oil pressures, typically a 250 or 300 psi gauge set) and some TH400 know how. Use the TM's or Al Gore's interweb. First thing you need to check is line pressure. If the pump is not putting out pressure then nothing works. Next you should be checking throttle/modulator and governor pressure. If these are OK then you go on to the clutches/brakes. These older non-electronic transmissions are very basic in nature and easy to diagnose even if you have no idea what is going on with the automagic mystery. Then and only then if it has failed to this point should you be pulling the trans for a rebuild. After all it may just need fluid, cooler, filter, or pump.
I personally like the people that come on here and ask for help diagnosing a trans problem and then say they are going to rebuild it. If you can't diag it you shouldn't rebuild it. Leave it to the pros.
I hope this steers you in the right direction and give others some insight on how to handle transmission issues.
Cheers
I personally like the people that come on here and ask for help diagnosing a trans problem and then say they are going to rebuild it. If you can't diag it you shouldn't rebuild it. Leave it to the pros.
I hope this steers you in the right direction and give others some insight on how to handle transmission issues.
Cheers
MarcusOReallyus
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I'm no pro, but I have some insight: Don't remove parts that engineers put in. They have to be able to justify every single screw to the bean counters. They don't usually put stuff in there just for giggles.
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It's more like 12 quarts to change the fluid . In post #1 he said it had a burnt smell , if just change the fluid in the pan you still have 8 quarts of bad fluid in the torque converter . You need to flush the whole system rather than just mix some new fluid in it .
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Skinny
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Not everyone has access to a flush machine, probably the best approach to do a good flush with no additive or detergents. I'm not one to recommend drilling a hole in the torque converter either to flush it. Believe it or not, that is an old school method and using a rivet when you are done to plug the hole. Written in the GM factory manual...yikes!
Marcus...I have no idea what your post is referring to. I would hope no one removes "extra" parts from a transmission. Where you talking about the TVV?
Marcus...I have no idea what your post is referring to. I would hope no one removes "extra" parts from a transmission. Where you talking about the TVV?
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I guess that's why I like fords they come with a drain in the torque converter. With burnt fluid your further ahead to pull it and around here you can get it rebuilt for about $250, than spend $50 to $75 trying to buy some time . Once the clutch packs are glazed it's all downhill .
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$800 to $1500 it depends on how much competition
and the quality of their work in your area .
Skinny
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I agree that if the fluid is burnt and has been for awhile, the damage is done. The OP will have to enlighten us here.
The diag process should not be skipped. Why is the fluid low or burnt? Will the same problem occur on the the rebuilt trans. A thorough diag will keep you from having to rebuild again and again because the root cause is a pump or valve body which more than likely will not get replaced on an average rebuild.
The diag process should not be skipped. Why is the fluid low or burnt? Will the same problem occur on the the rebuilt trans. A thorough diag will keep you from having to rebuild again and again because the root cause is a pump or valve body which more than likely will not get replaced on an average rebuild.