A Squids M1008 Plan/Build

[Squid in a CUCV]

Not too long ago I purchased an M1008 with 64K miles. My plans are to do a SOA, 4" suspension, High steer, SM420 or SM465, 203/205 doubler (triple stick), 37" tires, might go with beadlocks but I'm kinda partial to the deep dish "D" style rims painted Olive drab, Disk brake conversion with Eldorado e-brake calipers, rock rails, New dash, door seals and panels, seats with fold down center rest/coffee holder, tailgate hinges, Blackout Switches, etc. In short, I'm building it so my ol' lady won't break it when she drives it.

 

[tim292stro]

Any electrical work planned? That was one of the biggest weak points as far as I am concerned with this era truck.

 

[Squid in a CUCV]

As of right now, here are the things I'm slowly working on.

#1 Push the brake and my passenger turn signal/running light illuminates (doesn't blink). I'm thinking it's probably something that the PO did or a ground/short?
#2 Go to turn dash lights on (when cold) and they don't come on until the truck warms up. (Probably wiring under the hood).
#3 Using the Wipers Only in low, they will turn off when they feel like. (Probably the switch)
#4 Over a week or two the Truck would die, 2nd battery wasn't charging. Somebody disconnected wires under the hood. I removed some wires that weren't in the right spot and connected other wires that were tied off. Both batteries are charging... IMO they are charging on the high side, Bat #1 = 14.6V, Bat #2 = 14.7V... From Bat #1 to Bat #2 I'm getting 28.6V. The volt meter in the truck indicates in the Very Upper Green next to the line.
#5 Have some bad glow plugs so I ordered 8 G60's... This morning is was -13* so I cycled the glow plugs 4 times, turned the key and she fired up within 3-5 seconds of cranking... I really dislike cold starts. lol.

 

[Squid in a CUCV]

Alright guys/gals... I'm going to leave my build thread open to discussion dealing with the various issues and problems that I have and find with the truck instead of starting new threads all over the place.

Truck had good heat in the cab, now, it's almost nothing... the hoses are barely warm to the touch whether it's the hoses going into the heater or the top/bottom Rad hoses... Even the oil, after driving 55mph for 22 miles is only warm. I noticed that I have pressure in the cooling system even after it sits for a few days... The overflow gurgles... I turned the truck off and the gurgling decreased, fired her back up and the gurgles came back... I can't tell if the exhaust is pumping out coolant because it's been so cold (0* to -13*) the last few days... I need to do a hydrocarbon check... I'm thinking worst case scenario, head-gasket, crack in either the head or cylinder liner... I'm going to replace the rad cap today...
What do you guys/gals think?

 

[evldoer]

Your alternators are fine, no need to get excited about that.

And if you need to pull the heads off its a great time to upgrade the gaskets to something that will stand up to some boost for when you put a 6.5 turbo on it.

 

[Another Ahab]

Need some pictures here, but could be a gas. Subscribed.

 

[Squid in a CUCV]

Your alternators are fine, no need to get excited about that.

And if you need to pull the heads off its a great time to upgrade the gaskets to something that will stand up to some boost for when you put a 6.5 turbo on it.

There is a guy selling (2) 6.2's and (1) 6.5.... I don't know anything about the engines because I have to call the guy today. I like the 6.5 upgrades....

Need some pictures here, but could be a gas. Subscribed.

I replaced the Radiator cap, replaced the thermostat, I had to make a gasket because advanceauto said that it was discontinued... Things that I noticed while replacing the thermostat, the radiator side of the thermostat (coolant) was orange and dirty, the old thermostat would stick open from time to time, the engine side of the thermostat (coolant) was bright green. I emptied the radiator and replaced with fresh coolant. I fired her up, got the engine warm and drove her around the block at decent rpms. I pulled into the driveway popped the hood and noticed that the top rad hose was "bloated" (pressurized)... Bubbles in the overflow, The heat in the cab was warm at best. Even the heater hoses were barely warm. The only part that was hot was the coolant crossover.
I might replace the water pump but, I'm thinking combustion gases are getting into the cooling system. There is No oil in the coolant and No coolant in the oil. She's not puffing white or blue smoke... If the water pump doesn't do it then I'm going to pull the thermostat and cut out an air restrictor to put on the front of the radiator and then I will monitor any changes. ****, if I can't get the motors for a decent price I'll be half tempted to toss in one of my race motors... lol.
Side thought, how does one test for hydrocarbons in the coolant?

 

[Squid in a CUCV]

Some things just don't make any sense.

 

[Another Ahab]

Some things just don't make any sense.

Well yeah, like take a thermos bottle for instance:

- It keeps hot things hot, and cold things cold

But how does it know?!

I'm thinking that this wasn't the reason though that you posted your #8 here: are you referring to the coolant problem; is that it?

 

[Squid in a CUCV]

Looks like I'll be getting a low mileage 6.2 (without the heads both were cracked) and a 6.5 that has some vibration issues at idle... Until then, I'll run the truck with the cap turned one click allowing the air to go to the overflow. lol. I'll use the other 6.2 as a parts donor and the 6.5 will probably be rebuilt... or I'll use the heads/intake.

 

[nyoffroad]

As of right now, here are the things I'm slowly working on.

#1 Push the brake and my passenger turn signal/running light illuminates (doesn't blink). I'm thinking it's probably something that the PO did or a ground/short?

This is about the only thing I can help you with. Pull the right hand tail light cover off and pull the 1157 bulb out and take a look at the base, sometimes the make gets alittle sloppy with the solder and the two terminals are connected. I've also seen where the wire wasn't trimmed after being soldered and it shorted out to ground blowing fuses as soon as lights where turned on. That one took me awhile!

 

[TXFirefighter]

Side thought, how does one test for hydrocarbons in the coolant?[/QUOTE]

There is a test unit you can buy at NAPA. With the coolant level down below the filler neck, you place a rubber stopper with a clear cylinder on top of it in the filler neck. There is a special fluid you add to the cylinder and then start the engine and let the cooling system vent through the test unit. If combustion gasses are in the cooling system the fluid will turn yellow. It blue to start with. Simple kit, easy to use and accurate.

 

[Squid in a CUCV]

Seeing that the front springs and shocks are Shot I decided to upgrade.... I ended up dumping $2200 on an 8" lift. I still have to find a 2wd steering box and from what I am understanding, the donor years are from any GM 2wd truck from 73-87... or from a Blazer/Burb up to 90/91? Any thoughts or confirmation from you guys?

Here is a parts list of the goodies I ordered.

TCI-SX8000 Shocks (61301 & 61331) = $154
TCI-Shock Boots $15
SKY 8" Front Springs = $375
SKY 4" Rear Springs = $615
GM D60 Front U-bolt kit = $48
14B U-bolt kit = $40
1-ton 4" Shackle Flip Kit = $189
Weld In Frame steering box brackets = $79
D60 GM Brakelines = $119
D60 Crossover steering arm = $150
38" D60 draglink = $95
D60 Steering block = $85
Tie rod/draglink ends with 7/8x18 jam nuts = $95
Pitman Arm for crossover steering = $70


The 6.2 is leaking oil from the rear main... and it's not just a drip here or there. She's starting to push a decent amount of oil vapor out the fill tube and the cooling system is being pressurized more and more.... so needless to say, she's getting ready to give up the ghost. A buddy of mine has a 454 4-bolt main, virgin bore that has a bad rod or wrist pin... he said I can have it. Looks like I'll be pulling this 6.2, and tossing in the other 6.2 once the 6.5 heads and intake are on it. Once I am done building the 454 (wanting to get 500-600hp) she will be going in.

Well, time to go back out and work on the race car.

 

[Another Ahab]

Please. A picture would be neat.

 

[Squid in a CUCV]

I'll snap a pic of how she currently sits... I'm Waiting for all of the parts to come in and the weather to be warm enough to hold the wrenches without my fingers stinging. lol

 

[Squid in a CUCV]

 

[dependable]

The 6.2 is leaking oil from the rear main... and it's not just a drip here or there. She's starting to push a decent amount of oil vapor out the fill tube

I realize you are getting a new motor, but above sounds like clogged CDR (PCV) valve.

 

[Squid in a CUCV]

I realize you are getting a new motor, but above sounds like clogged CDR (PCV) valve.

Thanks for the heads-up. I'll check and replace if needed. Trying to make her last until I have the new (to me) motor ready for the drop in.

 

[Another Ahab]

Real nice rig.

Bed in good shape?

 

[Squid in a CUCV]

Yeah, she's straight and clean. She was a Va (Northern) truck. I find it fitting that I was stationed in Norfolk Va for almost 14 years and I move back to NY only to purchase a clean/rust free Va M1008.