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Restoration Thread for M32 w/sidecar WW2 AAF Flight Line untility vehicle

Torisco

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Main frame restoration

The frame needs some detail work to get back to original condition.

Little dings and hard to reach areas that have some rust. Also, the exhaust hole was damaged by someone trying to enlarge the hole for one reason or another.

The Fork King Pin Bushings are also going to be replaced. It is amazing that the original brass bushings were still on the frame and in reasonable shape for the age of the bike (1943).

Also had to easy out some broken bolts that are used to hold the body to the frame.
 

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Torisco

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Main Frame restore continued

I had to use a different size rust dip tanks (plastic storage containers) to get to the different areas of the oddly shaped frame.

I ended up still having to remove paint and rust from a small portion of the middle of the frame by hand. Which I am now doing.
 

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Another Ahab

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I had to use a different size rust dip tanks (plastic storage containers) to get to the different areas of the oddly shaped frame.

I ended up still having to remove paint and rust from a small portion of the middle of the frame by hand. Which I am now doing.
Did you already address this:

- But what (liquid) are you dipping the parts in?

I apologize if you covered this earlier.
 

Torisco

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Did you already address this:

- But what (liquid) are you dipping the parts in?

I apologize if you covered this earlier.

I ended up buying a concentrate that mixes with water and is 100% non toxic. I can put my hands and arms in the mixture with no harm to me. When the concentrate is all used up you can pour it down the drain as it is environmentally neutral without any chemicals or harmful ingredients.

I received a post in this thread earlier ( after I bought the stuff) from a member who gave me a non toxic rust removal recipe that I am going to try out as a comparison the next time I need to remove rust.

The product I got is called Esprit Industrial Rust Remover Concentrate. The mix is 1 gal concentrate to 9 gallons [maximum] of water. Less water for heavy rust problems. They suggest a tank or bucket heater to get the water to 140-150 degrees Farenhiet for faster rust removal action. They also suggest plastic tanks but you can use metal tanks as well. I used a water trough heater (for livestock water tanks in freezing weather, etc.) It worked great for what I did and saved a lot of work but can be a little expensive. The best deal I got was around $68.00 for a gallon of concentrate.
 

Torisco

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Bishop, California
Forks, Frame, and rear suspension swing arm work

Installed the throttle tube and removable pin onto the handle bar.
I needed to take the headlight apart and paint it. Then reassemble it. Also painted and mounted the head light bracket and headlight mounting rod onto the fork
 

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Torisco

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Rear suspension swing arm work.

I disassembled the zerk fitting hardware and cleaned it all up. The grease was hardened behind the zerk fittings and had to be cleaned up and regreased.
 

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Torisco

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Rear suspension swing arm (continued)

Had a little trouble centering the wheel on the suspension swing arm.

Bought new bolts, washers, and lock washers for the suspension springs.
 

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Torisco

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Main Frame work

The main frame had several small holes that needed to be welded shut. Also some other welding repairs. There were also some dings and dents to take out and of course the removal of the rust and paint from the middle of the frame that I could not get into the dip tank.
 

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Another Ahab

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VERY nice build ! Can't wait to see it finished , great work . bob k
Yeah, it's all just so clean. Like it was being restored by the Smithsonian or something. This is exemplary effort. Nice. Sweet!

This is the way I should have done the Deuce. I didn't. But I should have. Oh, well...
 

Torisco

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Bishop, California
Yeah, it's all just so clean. Like it was being restored by the Smithsonian or something. This is exemplary effort. Nice. Sweet!

This is the way I should have done the Deuce. I didn't. But I should have. Oh, well...

Whether one does frame-off, outside only, just to keep it running, or whatever...It is ALL GOOD. Every bit of interest is what will save these old steel beasts and thier little iron friends.

I am sure every persons rig is as glorius to them as it would be for a museum quality restorer. It is all rewarding when playing with O.D. Iron.....
 

Torisco

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Bishop, California
Used humpty dumpty sidecar frame

Well, the pic's tell the story. First you see the original used side car frame ready to work on. There are two major twist bends in the frame that you may or may not see in the picture but they are bad and will not allow the box sidecar to be mounted flat on the frame without being straightened out.

I first had to cut off the incorrect mounting bars (to be replaced with fabricated correct ones.)
Then I proceed at trying to straighten the frame out. When I started the straightening attempts the frame started cracking in four places all at once. You would think the frame was peanut brittle!

Needless to say, I now need to fabricate the entire sidecar frame, box, etc. less the salvaged suspension parts shown in one of the pictures.

I attached a document and a picture showing what I need to fabricate...such a little "Henry" scooter can sure generate a lot of metal fabrication work.
 

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Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,999
4,556
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
I first had to cut off the incorrect mounting bars (to be replaced with fabricated correct ones.)
Then I proceed at trying to straighten the frame out. When I started the straightening attempts the frame started cracking in four places all at once. You would think the frame was peanut brittle!
Good thing you didn't know how hard this would be. You might never have started.

And then we wouldn't have had all the fun.
 

Torisco

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Bishop, California
Thanks "Another Ahab", the worse part is I passed up a once every 100 year opportunity to buy the complete sidecar at a recent auction. (These sidecars are rarely seen at auctions or found for sale anymore). The top lid was missing and it needed to be re-painted...I passed it up because I only had the box sidecar fabrication to do and figured I had a good used frame that just required some work.

I think the fabrication of everything will end up costing about the same as the auctioned sidecar when it is fixed up. It is indeed a fun hobby.
 

Torisco

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Bishop, California
Still working on frame rehabilitation

I had to make small welds in several places and then had to repair dings and dents to frame.

I intend to undercoat the area of the frame that is most likely to rust. I also intend to do the floorboard in black bed liner to cut down on continual touch-up of a painted floorboard.

I used expansion foam to fill voids under the frame (that I de-rusted and coated) to prevent water intrusion. I then had to tunnel thru the foam to restore the wire and linkage paths that run thru the under frame voids in a few places.

I am also going to glue a rubber pad over the starter foot pedal rest so that the bed liner is not damaged when using the starter foot pedal.
 

Attachments

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,999
4,556
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
I had to make small welds in several places and then had to repair dings and dents to frame.

I intend to undercoat the area of the frame that is most likely to rust. I also intend to do the floorboard in black bed liner to cut down on continual touch-up of a painted floorboard.

I used expansion foam to fill voids under the frame (that I de-rusted and coated) to prevent water intrusion. I then had to tunnel thru the foam to restore the wire and linkage paths that run thru the under frame voids in a few places.

I am also going to glue a rubber pad over the starter foot pedal rest so that the bed liner is not damaged when using the starter foot pedal.
Unbelievable details…now where's that crazy insert...

here: :not worthy:
 

Torisco

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Location
Bishop, California
Finish Main Frame and Begin assembly

Finished the main frame and will now assemble the forks, front fender, brake pedal, rear suspension.

The rear tire and axle assembly had to be removed from the rear suspension when I discovered a crack in the brake backing plate bar. It went to the machine shop for professional repair and will be installed later.

I am finding that a lot of parts for the Cushman series 30 utility scooters are becoming scarce. SUch as the brake backing bar thta I sent to the machine shop. It holds the brake shoes, brake spring and a brake pivot shaft that actuates the shoes. So from now on I am going to be far more careful and not create a crack in a part that I may not be able to get easily.

The front axle and tire is waiting on two specially ordered front fork axle bearings that are coming from back east. So...maybe I will play with the side car frame fabrication for the next few days.
 

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Last edited:

Torisco

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
528
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28
Location
Bishop, California
Finished up the frame and began assembly of the main scooter

Had to plug a hole in the frame floor board and glue on a starter pedal foot pad.

I got the brake backing plate bracket back and started the assembly of the main bike and all its accessories. Also installing the under frame components like the kick stand, brake linkage etc.

It is finally looking like something.......
 

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Torisco

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
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Finished up the frame and began assembly of the main scooter (continued)

Pictures continued:
 

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Torisco

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Bishop, California
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