New M1008. Many different issues.

[Scar59]

Jack,
Snap out of it, its a truck (small one). Take the batteries to AutoZone, they will load test them at no $ charge. Then if batteries check good, take the starter off and find a starter/alternator shop and have it tested/repaired or exchanged.
Report back.

 

[Warthog]

Remove the starter and have it tested. See what type it is. A direct drive or a gear reduction.

 

[Jack Lope]

Jack,
Snap out of it, its a truck (small one). Take the batteries to AutoZone, they will load test them at no $ charge. Then if batteries check good, take the starter off and find a starter/alternator shop and have it tested/repaired or exchanged.
Report back.

Thanks for the tips. I'll do that next!

 

[doghead]

If this is licking you, the cucv may not be for you.

Have you simply read through the CUCV forum for an hour or two?

 

[Jack Lope]

If this is licking you, the cucv may not be for you.

Have you simply read through the CUCV forum for an hour or two?

My intent was to buy a running truck. I'll get this fixed, it just puts a big pause on some home improvement plans I had.

[edit] I'm reading the forum now.

 

[Warthog]

One thing you haven't told is what your mechanical skill set is. How are you at turning a wrench? What about understanding electrical systems? Reading wiring diagrams? Working thru/troubleshooting issues?

By us know that will help us help you.

 

[Jack Lope]

I have some mechanical skills, but no mechanic. I can replace parts, but will likely require a manual. I'm glad they're posted on these boards.
As for wiring diagrams, maybe. I've never used them before. Pretty sure I understand the basic principals of electricity, and have had to deal with some screwy electrical systems in an '82 Datsun Z.
In my limited experience, fixing the problem has been the easier part. Identifying the problem not always as easy.

 

[markg]

When i sell a truck i always tell the buyer to call me if there is a problem or a question they have. can you not call the seller for a little help? he could probably get you going again or point you in the right direction. thanks. mark

 

[Jack Lope]

The seller is being good about it. He has offered to come by this weekend which I appreciate.

I just made a video. Maybe someone will know what the issue is immediately.

Before today, the clicks in the dash would stop. Today, it seems to continue clicking.
I'm browsing the "CUCV Switches, Diodes, Relays" post hoping I find info on a similar issue.

 

[MTMUDRUNNER]

Jack, one thing I have learned from this site is that someone will be able to help, I have had my share of problems with my M1008 and my M923A2 someone will know and walk you through it.

 

[Jack Lope]

Jack, one thing I have learned from this site is that someone will be able to help, I have had my share of problems with my M1008 and my M923A2 someone will know and walk you through it.

I'm sure of it. Nice that there is an active community regarding these trucks.

 

[markg]

Sounds like the glow plugs are cycling, thats good. i didnt see a current draw when you turned the switch telling me your starter relay may not be working. its under the dash , right under the radio plate, you can bypass it to test if its good. you can also read posts on how to repair it. you have checked your battery connections? youve got hot batteries? see how that goes. you need a texas state inspection too. thanks. mark

 

[Jack Lope]

Sounds like the glow plugs are cycling, thats good. i didnt see a current draw when you turned the switch telling me your starter relay may not be working. its under the dash , right under the radio plate, you can bypass it to test if its good. you can also read posts on how to repair it. you have checked your battery connections? youve got hot batteries? see how that goes. you need a texas state inspection too. thanks. mark

I've got stuff coming to make the truck pass inspection, so I'll get that taken care of. Battery connections are fine, and batteries charged, but haven't had chance to get them load tested yet.

I'm fairly certain that the truck used to buzz when the key was turned one click. I'm also fairly certain the glow plug light would come on for a few moments. I'm new to diesel, so I don't really know what is normal or not.

Thanks for the tips, I'll check it out.

 

[markg]

The only buzz i can think of is the seatbelt buzzer, most people unplug it. its at the top of the fuse panel. you may have blown a fuse, even though that wont keep it from starting or turning over. the glow plug light did come on for a brief moment in the video. i would pay more attention to the click of the solinoid that you hear, thats what sends power to the glow plugs.

Besides wipers, lights and turn signals you need a working horn, emergency brake, and license plate light for state inspection. and of course 2/32 rubber. thanks.mark

 

[spartan_185]

Just a thought. Use a 1 inch socket and a breakover bar on the bolt head in the middle of you crankshaft pulley. Rotate your engine a a few degrees. The 1028 that my dad drives has a tendency for the starter to bind on the flywheel and exhibit the behavior that yours does when he turns the key to the start position. When you rotate the engine it frees up the starter.

 

[markg]

Just a thought. Use a 1 inch socket and a breakover bar on the bolt head in the middle of you crankshaft pulley. Rotate your engine a a few degrees. The 1028 that my dad drives has a tendency for the starter to bind on the flywheel and exhibit the behavior that yours does when he turns the key to the start position. When you rotate the engine it frees up the starter.

Most of the time in my experience when the starter drive binds against the flywheel without connecting squarely to the teeth you get a loud screech!!!

 

[spartan_185]

Most of the time in my experience when the starter drive binds against the flywheel without connecting squarely to the teeth you get a loud screech!!!

Ive seen it both ways on these trucks. Ive had two that do the same thing. You turn the key to start, and all you hear is the in cab relay click and the lights dim. You rotate the engine a few degrees and it spins right up. This was with fully charged hawker batteries installed and a fully functioning glow plug system in place.

 

[cpf240]

Have you had the batteries load tested? From what I see in the video, my first thought is one of the batteries has a bad cell, and is failing under load.

 

[tgtaylor64]

Could be bad batteries, have them load tested. If not batteries, the resistor bank could be failing, supplying over 14 V to the relay and thus causing it to cycle to protect your glow plugs. A multimeter can tell you that very quickly; just check the voltage on the top post of the glow plug relay on the firewall. Good luck and keep us posted!

 

[Jack Lope]

Ok, both Autozone and O'Reilly's put their little hand-held battery testers on the batteries and at 1000 cranking amps, they both tested "good needs-charged". At 750 amps, they both tested "good". As for testing under load, not sure if that's what their hand held devices did or not.

I love the 1/2" socket on the crank pulley to rotate the engine idea, but haven't tried that yet. I don't think I have a ratchet long enough to really reach it. Do you recommend doing this from the top or from under the truck? Also, clockwise? Pardon the dumb questions.

It is definitely the glow-plug relay that is clicking over and over. So to check that voltage, would I ground it to the truck? Just want to make sure, as I'm still learning how the 24v is going to affect anything.