My 12 Volt DC Accessory Kit Installation

[wreckerman893]

My wife had a custom 12 volt accessory kit made for me as a Christmas gift.

Sounds like the Boss Lady knows how to take care of her man. She's a keeper.

 

[m715mike]

The Install

It worked! Everything is wired as shown in the diagram in post #1 and there were no sparks or magic smoke when both toggle switches were turned on. The install went extremely smooth; however, it took a lot longer than I anticipated. I left home at 0600 and drove 60 miles to my Buddy's fabrication shop. After a great day, I returned home at 2100.

So why go to a fabrication shop for the install? When planning this project, I drew the wiring diagram and purchased all of the components. The next obstacle was figuring-out where in the truck to mount the components. There was no obvious location. That's when it hit me, why not make a "shelf" between the dash and the fire wall to hold everything. The accessory kit mounts to the lip on the bottom of the dash. The front of the shelf sits in between the accessory kit and the lip on the dash, and the back of the shelf bolts to the fire wall. Lastly, I figured it would be handy if the Pyle converter mounted on a hinged door for easy access in the future.

I have a little touch-up painting to do, but otherwise this project is done.

 

[m715mike]

You will want a 15 or 20A fuse on the input side of converter inline and as close to the battery where you acquire your 24VDC feed. Then a 30A on the output as close to the converter as possible.

This minimizes the change of a short to ground in the wiring releasing magic smoke.

Good looking setup.

swbradley1 - Thanks for the feedback! I read about the "magic smoke" in a number of threads when researching this project. It sounds like something I don't want to experience!

There is a 50 amp in-line fuse between the battery and the solenoid in my install. The fuse holder is mounted 6 inches from the battery terminal. The Pyle PSWNV720 converter has a 30 amp fuse built-in. Lastly, the accessory kit came with two 15 amp in-line fuses (these are between the Pyle converter and the 12VDC load). I'm hoping this will be sufficient to keep the magic smoke contained.

You comment leads me to a novice question. Also while researching, I read several posts that indicate a fuse should be located as close to the battery as possible. Why is the location of the in-line fuse important (i.e., close to the battery versus close to the load)?

 

[m715mike]

Sounds like the Boss Lady knows how to take care of her man. She's a keeper.

Yes sir! She is definitely a keeper! Not only did she start this project by giving me the accessory kit, but she wasn't too terribly upset when I got home last night at 2100 instead of 1700 as anticipated.

 

[moving chicane]

The fuse is placed close to the battery to prevent an electrical fire if the insulation gets damaged on the positive lead and shorts to ground. The fuse should be rated to match the length and gauge of wire used. When everything is installed correctly the fuse will blow before any major damage can occur. Contrary to popular belief the fuse is in place to protect the wiring, and not the device plugged into it.

 

[eagle4g63]

In relation to the fuse being close to the battery (or source) is it will protect the circuit if there is a problem with the feed wire itself.

That install looks great!!! Good idea with the shelf, I may have to borrow that when I ever get around to installing my 12 volt fuse panel.

 

[m715mike]

Novice Questions

As a novice, I began this project with more questions than answers. Information on this site was a great resource!

One of my first questions was, "How do you correctly wire a Pyle PSWNV720 converter?" Making matters worse, the Pyle converter did not come with instructions or a wiring diagram.

There are four terminals on the converter:

> 24VDC Input
> Ground
> 12VDC Output Positive
> 12VDC Output Negative

Three of the four terminals are self-explanatory. In my installation, the 24VDC Input comes from a 50 amp solenoid via a common busbar. The "Ground" goes to a bolt on the fire wall (only after we tested it with a meter to ensure a good ground). The 12VDC Output Positive feeds my accessory kit.

This leaves the 12VDC Output Negative. Using the "Search" function on SS yields a variety of discussions on the topic. Some of the information seemed to be conflicting, which added to my confusion. Here is a summary of the options I found for the 12VDC Output Negative terminal:

1) Don't use it. This implies that all of your 12VDC accessories (e.g., cell phone charger) would ground directly to the chassis.
2) Connect the 12VDC output terminal on the Pyle converter to a chassis ground. Some posts indicated that it could connect to the same location on the chassis as the "Ground" terminal. I guess this also implies that your 12VDC accessories would ground directly to the chassis.
3) Lastly, there was discussion about connecting the ground wire on your 12VDC accessories to the 12VDC Output Negative terminal on the Pyle converter. With this option, your 12VDC accessories "float" through the Pyle converter and do not ground to the chassis.

I elected to go with option #3. My accessory kit grounds through the 12VDC Output Negative terminal on the Pyle converter. This worked in my installation. As a novice, I do not have the knowledge base to express an opinion on options #1 or #2 above.

 

[Kloakndagr]

Nice...

 

[oddshot]

So why go to a fabrication shop for the install? When planning this project, I drew the wiring diagram and purchased all of the components. The next obstacle was figuring-out where in the truck to mount the components. There was no obvious location. That's when it hit me, why not make a "shelf" between the dash and the fire wall to hold everything. The accessory kit mounts to the lip on the bottom of the dash. The front of the shelf sits in between the accessory kit and the lip on the dash, and the back of the shelf bolts to the fire wall. Lastly, I figured it would be handy if the Pyle converter mounted on a hinged door for easy access in the future.

I have a little touch-up painting to do, but otherwise this project is done.

That is a TERRIFIC IDEA. A GREAT use of otherwise wasted space.

Also a very neat install. It is VERY important to keep things neat and organized when working with electricity. A car fire can just WRECK your whole dang day.

If I could offer a small suggestion ... do you have enough room to turn the wires going to the solenoid 180 degrees, so that they come DOWN to the connection instead of going UP to the connection? It might prevent they getting snagged one day and tidy things up even a little more.


VERY good job.

 

[m715mike]

oddshot - Thanks for the compliments!

A car fire can just WRECK your whole dang day.

Been there, done that! Although it was a fuel leak and not an electrical issue that caused the fire, it still WRECKED my day! I had just purchased a 1979 Chevy 4x4 and was driving it home when it burst into flames!

If I could offer a small suggestion ... do you have enough room to turn the wires going to the solenoid 180 degrees, so that they come DOWN to the connection instead of going UP to the connection? It might prevent they getting snagged one day and tidy things up even a little more.

Good suggestion, thanks! The top of the solenoid is rather close to the map box, but I bet there is room to turn the wires 180 degrees. I will have to check it out this weekend.

 

[Varyag]

I did some thing similar but just used the cheap 110 watt one that cost 11 dollars. I have had it in there a year and many many trips and it works great. It powers my CB and 2 accessory outlets. I have a switch to turn it on or off as I need it.

On the last PNW rally it was running the CB, 2 phones an MP3 player and a GPS and didn't get warm.

 

[4x4 Forever]

Gives us Ideas!!!!! Thanks for posting!

 

[m715mike]

On the last PNW rally it was running the CB, 2 phones an MP3 player and a GPS and didn't get warm.

That's good to know! Thanks!

 

[m715mike]

Magic Smoke

Minor SNAFU... I think the magic smoke came out of my Pyle converter.


As shown in the pictures, there's a gap in my windshield molding that lets water in while driving in the rain. I was aware of this potential hazard and am usually conscientious not to turn on my 12 volt accessories during a rain storm. Well.... A couple weeks ago I left home in a rain storm headed for an event. I was focused on several things that morning (mainly safe driving in poor visibility) and didn't even think when I flipped the switch to run my GPS unit. I didn't get far before there was a sizzle and faint smell of smoke. I hoped it was only a fuse, but I really knew it was my solenoid or Pyle converter.

I have since checked all of the fuse. They are fine. Using a test light, I have concluded that the solenoid is good but my Pyle converter has lost all of the magic smoke that makes it work.


Christmas is coming, and I have already asked Mrs. Claus for a new one.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Open the window, put some candle wax on the frame in that corner, then close the windshield and put some silicone there from the rubber gasket down to the frame. That will fill the gap, the silicone will stick to the rubber and stay with the windshield, but the wax will keep it from sticking to the frame, so you can still open the windshield.

 

[rmgill]

Water on 12 volt items won't likely cause a short unless there is other material there that's likely to be a conductor. Think of the batteries and the wires that are running to them. They're out in the weather. You DO have to worry about corrosion on the copper and other metal bits inside electronics but under the dash is pretty dry.

 

[rustystud]

Water on 12 volt items won't likely cause a short unless there is other material there that's likely to be a conductor. Think of the batteries and the wires that are running to them. They're out in the weather. You DO have to worry about corrosion on the copper and other metal bits inside electronics but under the dash is pretty dry.

Actually the whole inside of the truck can get really wet ! Up here in the NW with all the humidity my truck "rains on me" when I get inside ! I have found severe rust underneath the dash and really went after it this last summer. I also found the "hood" catch was leaking water bad ! I removed the bolt and screw and resealed both with a high quality Permatex RTV sealant. So far no leaks but the moisture inside the truck is ridiculous ! I have to bring a big towel out with me to wipe down the ceiling and sides of the cab when I want to start it up and go anywhere. I think I might put a small heater inside to keep the moisture at bay !

 

[Jeepsinker]

Water on 12 volt items won't likely cause a short unless there is other material there that's likely to be a conductor. Think of the batteries and the wires that are running to them. They're out in the weather. You DO have to worry about corrosion on the copper and other metal bits inside electronics but under the dash is pretty dry.

While this is true, when you get water on a powered circuit with components like capacitors, transistors, resistors, etc, it does in fact cause component failures almost every time.