Suppressor on bus bar

[Chaos333]

Here is a background my problem.

Two weeks ago I tried to start my truck and I had no power, did some testing and found that my alternators were out but I also noticed that a wire with what looked like a resistor attached going between the positive and negative bus bar was broken this wire is listed as a suppressor on the electrical diagram. I had a mechanic look at it to help me diagnose the problem and he just put a wire in place of the suppressor and tested it but still no power. He left and I ordered two new alternators.

The alternators came in yesterday and I hooked them up and when I connected the batteries things started to smoke so I removed the cables and remembered what the mechanic did and removed that wire and reconnected the batteries and I had power but when I tried to start the truck it would not turn over and my Alt2 light would not come on.

So my question is: Do I need that wire (suppressor) and where do I find one? I have looked all over and know one seems to know what it is or where to find one. Also would that mechanic connecting the positive and negative bus bar like he did burn out my alternator, starter or any other damage?

I did check my fuses last night and they seem fine but now I am going through the TM and troubleshooting trying to find the problem. The alternators are ones I bought off e-bay that were supposed to be drop in CUCV OEM replacements.

 

[doghead]

Replacing that suppressor(diode) with a wire would create a dead short from 24+ to ground.

You do not need it.

 

[doghead]

What alternators did you order? Are they isolated ground? Did you test them?

Why didn't you just rebuild your original alts? This is a much better choice in my opinion.

Is there a thread about your truck not starting?

 

[Chaos333]

I bought them because they are supposed to be OEM CUCV replacement alternators this way I could rebuild the old ones when I had the chance and have a back up.

So I do not need that suppressor wire at all? And having hooked up could that have messed something else up?

This is what I bought: http://www.ebay.com/itm/120823271390?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I have not tested them as they are supposed to be new OEM Delco Alternators.

Here are the specs -

OEM(s): Delco
Voltage: 12 Volts
Amps: 100 Amps
Regulator Position: 1:00
Polarity: Negative
Alternator Family Type: 100
Output Stud Dimensions: M6-1.0
Mount: J180
Reg. Location: Internal
Fan Location: External
New or Remanufactured: New
Approximate Weight: 17.12 lbs / 7.78 kg

 

[doghead]

Search our site for rare electric and see what you find.

There have been a few people that have reported the same failure as you, after buying their alternators.

Testing them or any alt before installing them is imperative.

 

[cpf240]

I would test the alternators to ensure they are isolated ground alts.

Connecting the 24v buses together with a straight wire created a dead short, as DH said. This could have blown fuses and / or fusible links. Please read the fusible link sticky at the top of the CUCV forum for more information. It is also possible that the alts could have been damaged when this short happened.

The suppressor is not needed and can be safely left out.

 

[doghead]

Look over your new ones and compare them to the originals, I doubt they sell OEM AC Delco alts(I know what their ad says).

 

[Chaos333]

They look very close. The only real difference is that it takes a different mounting bolt at the top of the alternator. All the connections on the back seem to be very close.

 

[doghead]

How about the part numbers and where they are stamped.

Is the Delco Remy TM cast into the(on the rear I think it is)

 

[doghead]

Where did you see smoke?

 

[Chaos333]

I can check them when I get back home in 1 hour.

 

[Chaos333]

Where did you see smoke?

From the bus bar. But it was only for a second. When I saw what was going on I immediately removed the battery cables.

 

[doghead]

You may only have a burnt fusible link, if we're lucky!

 

[Warthog]

DH will help you get it worked out.

And once again a "mechanic" tries to burn down a CUCV because he didn't take the time to learn the vehicle and thought he knew how everything "should" work. I have seen it time and time again.

 

[Chaos333]

DH will help you get it worked out.

And once again a "mechanic" tries to burn down a CUCV because he didn't take the time to learn the vehicle and thought he knew how everything "should" work. I have seen it time and time again.

This was a husband of my wife's friend. My wife wanted me to let him look at it and I tried to explain that he would only make things worse but she did not understand. Well she understands now. LOL!

I have found any mechanic I do have look at it knows less then I do about the truck and I am no mechanic but so far I have been doing all my own work and doing a lot of reading on this truck. It does make a difference.

 

[phil2968]

Two weeks ago I tried to start my truck and I had no power, did some testing and found that my alternators were out ..
.

How did you determine the alternators were bad if the truck would not run? Did you pull them and have them tested? The truck needs to be running to test the alternators with them installed.

 

[Chaos333]

How did you determine the alternators were bad if the truck would not run? Did you pull them and have them tested? The truck needs to be running to test the alternators with them installed.

Yes, I pulled them and had them tested at O'Reilly Auto Parts.

 

[cpf240]

Yes, I pulled them and had them tested at O'Reilly Auto Parts.

Did they know that they are isolated ground alternators and that they have to hook up the neg cable of the tester to the neg terminal on the back of the alt, and not the case?

 

[Chaos333]

Did they know that they are isolated ground alternators and that they have to hook up the neg cable of the tester to the neg terminal on the back of the alt, and not the case?

I am really not sure. It was two weeks ago and I had to carry them on a bike trailer mile along with the batteries since I needed to get them charged at the same time. I new I should have told them that but at this poin I not so sure.

 

[Chaos333]

Look over your new ones and compare them to the originals, I doubt they sell OEM AC Delco alts(I know what their ad says).

I did look at them and I did not see AC Delco written on the back. I have not pulled them off yet but I will do that after dinner. I did e-mail the seller and this is what he says about it being original -
"We have purchased several hundred of these units from our supplier.
But these are all purchased as Made in the USA Original Equipment from a U.S. Government approved supplier.
The alternator has a large Isolated Negative Post w/ black insulator and large Positive post w/ red insulator.
A small Pin terminal A/C output connection and a plug in for Activation. Most importantly a ( and quite rare for a Delco alternator)the ground must be Isolated ground in order to be able to run # 1 alternators Negative to alternator #2 Positive. These alternators work in Series to achieve 24v."

Are all AC Delco parts marked? Is there another manufacture who made alternators for the military?