TN ivbeenrokd's crew cab underway

[Lieutenant Dan]

Idk really.... I see people all the time on craigslist posting for $150 to $500...... to me it isn't worth it..... I can go to the u pull it and get them for $20 a piece...... will they be nice leather no.... but I didn't really want leather anyway. .... I paid $60 for three rows out of a durango but then again I'm a cheap ass lol.

I was thinking 16 gauge too but local scrap yard has 18 or 20 for $10 4x8 sheet each. I also picked up three sheets of 10 or 11 gauge for the floor and tool box I'm going to put in the m105 bed for $20 a sheet... steal!!!!!

 

[w3azel]

I did 16ga for the floor up halfway on the side. Then 18ga for the very top because of hail and tree limbs. Then 20ga along the roof sides and around the doors. Id like to know how people are forming a seal around the door windows. I'm thinking next time I'm going to build the door around the window like a traditional door and do a normal door seal. LOL listen to myself. Not even done with my first and I'm already planning my second.

Also those are some great prices for steel. I didn't get that lucky and spent a pretty penny on it. Lets not even start on how much my crew cab super duty seats were.

 

[ivbeenrokd]

I got the seats at a local yard today. Originally said $800 at the register and the person I was dealing with said they'd do better. I was hoping for $400 or less and then the guy said $113 with tax. I about died! I was excited all afternoon after that win. Metal was $108 for both sheets at the local metal warehouse.

 

[ivbeenrokd]

Well, we made progress today but it didn't feel as productive as last week. Got the metal on the inside and outside between the cabs welded and ground down on the outside only. Braced the front floor section of the rear cab, made the front portion of the floor, and prepped it for welding but didn't get to start welding it. Made some measurements for mounting the rear seat so I can pick up some metal.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

Looks really good. What wire and size are you using? I was going to give .030" bare wire a shot since it's mostly sheet metal work. I should have my front end back together Friday and plan on cutting the cab saturday.

 

[ivbeenrokd]

It's .30 and I'm using gas on the welder.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

Yeah i was going to use 95%/5% argon/co2. My little 110v Lincoln does a awesome job on sheet metal and exhaust.

 

[Dieseljoe3]

Excellent work, and great pics. I had to chuckle at seeing the stenciled warning "Do not touch" on the door...looks like you did, lol!

 

[ivbeenrokd]

Excellent work, and great pics. I had to chuckle at seeing the stenciled warning "Do not touch" on the door...looks like you did, lol!

When I had my first deuce and would go to the local Saturday night car show people would just help themselves. It's the only vehicle in the place that someone would just walk up to, open the door, and get in or put their kids in. I don't mind people getting in at all but I want to be there when it happens so when I painted this one I added that. Some people will still help themselves. I should get some type of awful door alarm to turn on at the car shows!

 

[w3azel]

I think I'm going to stencil NOT MILITARY PROPERTY. I don't mind people looking and taking pics but I'm tired of having to explain its a POV and I don't have to adhere to Military vehicle rules ie: TC, dispatch, drip pan, chock block, uniform, parking restrictions. I guess people think the military made a crew cab deuce back in the 70's.

 

[ivbeenrokd]

For anyone who ever wanted to know what it's like to build a lifted four-door deuce here you go, a big stack of receipts, that's what you get. Now you know...

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

Yeah i can only imagine..... mine is getting pretty high

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

Do you pan in solid mounting your seats or using springer bases for the front?

 

[ivbeenrokd]

I'm planning to solid mount them. Not that I would mind doing springer bases but I think that might push these seats too high and funds are getting stretched now that we're getting near the end. Also, I figure since these have more padding than the original seats it has to be an improvement and I can always go back and easily change this later if needed. Now that you've brought it up though, I have some 3/8 rubber matting that we use for subwoofers and speakers to sit on to dampen them that I could probably put between the seat base and the mount. That will dampen them a little more....

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

I was going to go with a springer base on both front seats but not that I think about it i think I'm just going to solid mount all of them. Truck was that bad and with better seats would be even better. My springer is pretty stiff to begin with. Idk I just don't think there is enough room to do it.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

Hey rokd..... When you cut the back off your cab did you just draw a line and cut it like a slice of bread or did you surgically peel apart the different sections. I've been pondering how to do mine. Since I'm using 3/16" for the floor I think I'm going to cut mine like a slice of bread and move the entire back rear. Then figure out a little frame work but shouldn't have to do to much since I'm using the 3/16" then notch out the rear to fit all around the cross braces on the rear wall then over lap the front a little then set the floor in and weld it up.

 

[ducer]

Dan,
3/16 is awefully thick, these trucks flex a lot. If you go welding the thinner sheetmetal to that then it will crack the thinner stuff at the weld from all the flexing. You would be better off using 16 gauge sheetmetal with extra bracing and allow for some flex. Just because you use thicker metal does not mean it will flex less. A well thought out design will go much further and weigh less. Just my .

Denny

 

[ivbeenrokd]

Hey rokd..... When you cut the back off your cab did you just draw a line and cut it like a slice of bread or did you surgically peel apart the different sections. I've been pondering how to do mine. Since I'm using 3/16" for the floor I think I'm going to cut mine like a slice of bread and move the entire back rear. Then figure out a little frame work but shouldn't have to do to much since I'm using the 3/16" then notch out the rear to fit all around the cross braces on the rear wall then over lap the front a little then set the floor in and weld it up.

I tried both ways but ultimately did more cutting than peeling. I think you could cut the whole back off as one piece, you'll just have to take your time.

I'm with ducer on the floor thickness, I would suggest doing proper frame work underneather with bumpstops then adding a 16ga floor. 3/16 might work fine but it will be hard to weld to the original metal in some areas and it might be prone to break loose in the future. Just my thoughts.

 

[ivbeenrokd]

We got the center cross members installed, 5 of the 6 floor panels installed, 2 of the 4 B pillar inner sheet metal panels installed, the 2 lower outer B pillar panels cut and bent, the rear seat rear mount cut, and test fit the seats.

 

[FatBuddhaBoo]

Looking real good!

As for receipts, I didn't keep any, though I have a pretty good idea of what I spent on the whole project...

For flooring, I'm with Ducer on the 16 gauge sheet metal, as that's what I used because the old stuff measured closer to 16 gauge.

As for car shows, I've yet to get mine to one. Hoped to make it to my first last weekend, but between the rain and fixing the wife's Maxima that didn't happen. There's another this weekend, but my son has a swim meet so no chance of me making it to this one. Maybe next month....