LT. Dan M35a2 Modification Thread

[doghead]

Becasue you cross posted(same topic in more than one active thread).

And the system merged them and they ended up in the other forum.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

So its definitely the thermostat..... I took it out and the truck never got over 140°. Have a new one coming Monday from napa. Does anyone know if they come with a new seal for the housing too?

Got a few other things done today but not as much as I wanted cause of the thermostat problem. I got the box modified and three battery's in and and the main power cables ran for the alternator. Also mounted the coolant filter. I put it on the fire wall so It can go right into the heater. It fits good and nd is about 3" from the exhaust so I will make a heat sheild.

 

[doghead]

Will the inner fender well still fit with the filter there?

What NAPA thermostat number are you using?

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

Yeah it should I measured it all out..... and I got the THM 358180. It had to be ordered should be here Monday. It was $31.77 plus tax. Hopefully it works

 

[doghead]

Found this with a search of the part #,

I just picked one up at NAPA the other day. it's a THM 358-180 cost me $32.65. The seal is a 4662 and cost $3.25.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

Hmmmmmm thanks I was thinking it would come with the thermostat the way the tm reads.

 

[doghead]

The TM does not source parts from Napa.

 

[skinnyR1]

Here's mine from napa waiting for install. No seal.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

Cool I'll call Monday and order the seal too. I hope this one fixes it. I can't figure out why the old one doesn't work......

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

Expecially when It worked before

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

Here's a picture of the battery box in the truck

 

[skinnyR1]

Dan. Welding question.

I'm a noob welder, and picked up a Hobart 140 mig welder to make my snorkel and patch up my rusty areas on the body. I want to hook up gas.

I can get get bottles of 100% CO2 or 100% Argon pretty easily. No mix though. Any advice on what gas I should run it with?

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

Go with co2 it's cheap but do not run 100% argon it's to hot for steel and the carbon needs the co2 to cool the tip and burn properly. We use 100% argon for aluminum only.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

Well since there seems to be a problem with posting a new thread outside of this thread I'm reposting it here..... hopefully people look in here and help.....

My truck ran fine before anything was done. I flushed the engine and the radiator separately from each other. I did get a lot of brown silty stuff out of the engine when flushing. I followed the tm on reverse flushing and flushed the radiator many different ways from bottom from the top and from the fill neck.*

Filled it back up and installed old thermostat and coolant filter where the heater was and correctly according to the tm.*

Now the truck overheated sitting in my driveway. I shut it down at 230°. I took the thermostat out and found it wasn't opening till almost exactly boiling at 212°. Put it back in the truck and it did the same thing all over. Took it back out and ran the truck with no thermostat and the truck wouldn't go over 140°. I had it high idle around 1400 rpm for almost an hour and it never went over 140°. Bingo thermostat is bad.

So I got a brand new thermostat and seal from napa and installed in this morning. Filled it back up and proceeded to burp it. There is no air in the system. I cracked each hose. Oil cooler hose Water manifold hose lower radiator hose Water Pump hoses and I cracked the fitting on top of the thermostat housing and had coolant at each spot with no air bubbles. Left the truck run for close to an hour and once again it is over heating. The truck was approaching 220° and it shouldn't be that hot just idling in the driveway.*

So what the heck is the deal. Why was it fine before and now it's not. Is the radiator clogged? Is there something else wrong? I'm at ends wit here and I'm seriously getting PO'd!*

PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!

 

[w3azel]

Go with co2 it's cheap but do not run 100% argon it's to hot for steel and the carbon needs the co2 to cool the tip and burn properly. We use 100% argon for aluminum only.

I was told not to change over to 100% co2 because I would need a second different regulator then the one I have.

This might be a dumb question but is the flow rate for the different thermostats the same? Maybe even open its not allowing enough coolant through the engine.

 

[gimpyrobb]

You just let it sit and idle? I wouldn't think that would get all the air out. Take it for a drive. If it didn't overheat before, it shouldn't now. Next step would be to have the rad. rodded or boiled out.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

Yeah but I don't see how there is any air in the system anywhere I cracked all the hoses and got no air out of it at all.

Thanks Thanks for you help rob. You should be a moderator..... always nice and helpful!

 

[Jeepsinker]

Dan, pull the water pump and check the fins on the impeller, they may be badly eroded. I would also flush through the water pump housing while it is off. Sounds like you re-deposited some gunk and clogged some cooling passages when you did the flush. Could be in the block, could be in the radiator like gimpy said. When you flush, do so with the block drains open too. Try to find a small hose you can run up into the bottom of the water jacket.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

Well I guess I'm taking it back apart and see what else I can get out of it. I want it done right. I'm going to take the radiator to a local place and have it cleaned this week and I'll try flushing the engine again. My boss said pinesol or clr works good to do it.

I'm do mad right now

 

[gimpyrobb]

CLR will work, but its not cheap! Do a search for it here, there is a thread where someone found a generic version for clr. Also, it has been posted that not having it(the rad.) painted will help with heat transfer.