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M101a2 grease cap and hub question

JR2980

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Hey guys -

So I moved 2 tons of stone about 8 miles in my trailer this weekend - loaded like that it sat nice and level, and other than the tires flexing like crazy (new ones are on the way and should fix that), it managed really well, however one of the hubs got kinda warm, so I figured I should finally getting around to replacing the bearings.

I ordered new seals, races, and bearings using the part numbers from this thread... http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...s-amp-bearings&p=498667&viewfull=1#post498667 , but I have a couple of questions....


First, it looks like a gorilla used a sledgehammer on one of the grease caps auaauaaua anyone have a part number for replacement grease caps, or know what size they are?


Also, I understand from reading here that the phillips screws attaching the drum to the hub are difficult to remove....a guy I know told me that they don't really need to be there since the lugs will sandwich the drum between the hub and the wheel and keep it tight. How true is that? Can I leave them off without any issues? I'm a little worried about stripping them when taking them off. If I damage them, where do I get new ones, or is it ok to run without them? I guess there's probably a reason that they're there, but they definitely aren't holding any kind of load.



Thanks!
JR
 

harleyhouse

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If the dust caps are still useable just pound them back to shape with a ball peen hammer. If not take one to the local auto parts and match them up. To remove the Phillips head counter sunk screws that won't back out get an impact driver. Mine came out with one hit. The screws are just there to hold the drum in assembly and if the wheels are removed in shipment.
 

swbradley1

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For troublesome screws use 50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF. I have it in a squirt bottle in my shop for just such an occasion. I also have an impact driver for screws too. ;-)
 

JR2980

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If the dust caps are still useable just pound them back to shape with a ball peen hammer. If not take one to the local auto parts and match them up.
Yeah, I dont think they're re-usuable. One of them has a hole - looks like someone punched a screwdriver through it to pull the cap off.


To remove the Phillips head counter sunk screws that won't back out get an impact driver. Mine came out with one hit. The screws are just there to hold the drum in assembly and if the wheels are removed in shipment.
Thanks for the info - hopefully they come out without too much trouble. It makes sense that they would add them to hold the hubs on when wheels are removed for transport...I never thought of that. That being the case, I may not put them back on since I dont forsee ever transporting without the wheels.
 

JR2980

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For troublesome screws use 50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF. I have it in a squirt bottle in my shop for just such an occasion. I also have an impact driver for screws too. ;-)
Thats a good idea - I have lots of ATF around, but will have to see if I have any acetone.
 

rosco

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Why do you want to take the drums off the hubs? For that matter, new bearings? Without looking at them first - probably greasing them & re-adjustment, would be a likely solution. Often, those things haven't been serviced, forever, despite what the TM says.
 

JR2980

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Why do you want to take the drums off the hubs? For that matter, new bearings? Without looking at them first - probably greasing them & re-adjustment, would be a likely solution. Often, those things haven't been serviced, forever, despite what the TM says.
I don't have the TM in front of me, but I think I remember pulling the drum being one of the steps to removing the hub - I could be wrong on that though. I seem to remember thinking that the hub could just be removed with the drum on it, and that removing the drum was probably just to make it a little lighter and easier to move.

If the bearings are in good shape I'll just repack and reinstall them, but I wanted to have new ones on hand in case they do end up being bad. If I dont use the new ones, then I'll just hang onto them for spares.


Thanks!
 

rosco

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You don't have to remove the drums, to remove the Hubs. Usually, they won't be removed until replacement is necessary, which on your trailer will be never. Those bearings and seals will be available, over the counter, at your local store. Probably, none of it needs replacing. A good bet would be to just buy one set (maybe two seals), to have as spares, and keep them with the trailer always, for insurance on trips. But if they are lubed properly & adjusted, not too tight, they just don't go out. Even with heavy loads on them, the bearings don't go out. I often DSCN0003.jpgtravel down to the Old Country,DSCN0010.jpg (I don't carry bearings) and have experienced different problems, but never a bearing problem. On the trip pictured, the trailer was loaded with around 2500#. When the load was removed, the spring poped back into shape and is still in service. I am looking for a boot for the tire though.
 

busbart

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@ JR2980, What I mostly do when something new to me arrives at the premesis, I go all over it, undo all things which are easy, but for sure brakes and bearings, have a look for in which state things are, and by putting them back, i have a go with a pot of coppergrease, and put some on aal of these things such as these phillips head screws you mentioned before.
in that case "IF" you break down there are not many things which are 1 Unknown to you, and 2 are stubborn, imagine you have to replace or adjust such a thing on the side of the road, that will be mostly in the pouring rain!?!
That said, being there, that might be a good reason to replace certain bolts/nuts if their heads/forms are damaged, so that in before mentioned situations you're not going to bust any knuckels...

@ Rosco, wonderfull tires the ones you have on the trailer (the right pic.) I had a pair on my Dodge, bought secondhand from a Ford, and they go, and go, and go, been even in the Libian desert (before the war there), I think it's a pity you can't get them anymore.
 
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