How are these type of antenna tie downs meant to work?

[Valence]

So I'm feeling rather dense at the moment, okay - more than usual.

I'm mounting a CB antenna on my driver's bed side (with the antenna tied down toward the rear).



And for the sake of ease, I bought an antenna kit. It came with the following antenna tie down:



It was not immediately obvious to me where or how it was intended for me to attach this both to my truck and the antenna and/or how to use it to keep the antenna tied down.

This is the kit I bought (Note, not to cause confusion - this kit does not come with the stand off bracket like I have shown in my above picture, but will come with the sugar scoop for that price).

http://www.thosemilitaryguys.com/antenna-complete-kit-for-cb-radio/

 

[taylordc15]

Sorry I don't have a better picture, the black clip hooks over the antenna near the top of it. I would tie it to the closest cargo cover tie down once you have the antenna bent over where you like it.

 

[MWMULES]

The fixed part of the clip is made for going down the highway, keeps the antenna bent down. The snap out part is meant for off road, if limbs get caught in the tie down it allows the antenna to pop loose and not get broken or snagged by the tree limbs.

 

[machinist75]

What mwmules said.

 

[Valence]

Oh, alright awesome. Thanks all.

I wasn't sure if the "fixed" side was meant to clip to my truck or what (if so I imagined that at highway speeds the antenna could come out...) but different highway/offroad configurations is bonus features in the bag that I didn't know about.

Thank you.

 

[Valence]

Gee , it seems simple now, but at the time I couldn't figure out why there were 2 clip points.

Yup, look'n good!

 

[machinist75]

That's it!

 

[Mike929]

I have one of those clips w/rope across the front of my m931A2. I was about to ask what it was for when i found this thread.

Any one have a picture of configuration on a tractor or a shop truck (plan on putting a m109 box on the back in a future onfiguration)?

 

[Merc1973]

Good info. Are you actually going to be using this for CB? If so any details on modifying the base or whip?

 

[Valence]

Good info. Are you actually going to be using this for CB? If so any details on modifying the base or whip?

I am using it for CB. The link I provided in my first post to "ThoseMilitaryGuys" comes with a base (that bolts directly to the sugar scoop) and the antenna (that screws into the base) matched for use with CB. The base (and my Uniden Grant XL CB) uses the standard PL-259 connectors. No modification was necessary. Even if it did use a different connection I could have ordered a cable with said different ends on it, but I'm happy that they were identical.

The antenna and base does not come with the coaxial cable to connect from the antenna base to a CB though. I decided how I wanted to route the cable, measured, then ordered a cable from here:

http://www.amateurradiosupplies.com/rg8x-coax-cable-s/126.htm

The exact cable I ordered was the following, upgrade to the Amphenol connectors. About $30.00 with shipping and took about 1.5 weeks to receive it. The main reason I ordered from here was the professional quality constructed cables with heat shrink and sealant.
http://www.amateurradiosupplies.com/product-p/20007.htm

Personally, from my reading online, I decided to go with the RG-8X for perhaps little bit less signal loss in the cable over the (what appears to be) the more common, less expensive, RG-58U. Really, in such a short range system it probably didn't make much of a difference - even with the upgraded end connectors. But I'm very happy with it, and that is what matters to me! My SWR (Signal to Wave Ratio) reported on my Uniden Grant XL is nearly 1, which is a well matched system, achieving about the best signal that I can expect. Funny enough though, even though I live next to an interstate, I have yet to talk to anyone via the CB. I did hear some very faint chatter once, but I'll get a better signal outside of my garage with the antenna vertical. I also need to find out what channels are commonly used in my area and wherever I travel to.

I routed the coaxial cable under the bed, down by the fuel tank, and up into the cab in the 3rd floor hole above the batteries (right next to the cables that run to the slave port) then up to an overhead console. I had calculated 18 feet being plenty - in reality it was just barely enough. A 19' to 20' cable would have been better for me. I haven't made the cable permanently attached inside the cab yet. I'll address that later.

Since I ordered the cable pre-assembled, I needed to drill two 3/4" holes (the connectors were 3/4" in diameter) in the bottom rail of my bed (right below the sugar scoop offset bracket). In retrospect if I had attached the cable ends myself, I would have only had to drill a 1/4" hole as that is the diameter of the cable (or 3/8" to 1/2" hole to allow room for a rubber grommet or to cover the coaxial cable in a protective hose).

 

[Valence]

I didn't want my coaxial cable getting in the way in the bed, or worse, being hit/cut by the troop seat legs. Also, I wanted to limit dirt, rain, and critters getting to the bed (as I planned to use the bed as a sad man's RV).

So I decided to drill a hole below the antenna mount. I had only decided this after I had mounted the offset bracket so the hole is slightly off center. I also didn't want to drill through the weld on the support bracket.

In all, I'm pleased with how it turned out.



I used an overhead console also from "ThoseMilitaryGuys" but it did not fit my cab too well. I guess my hard top might be different or an odd ball. I had to cut a notch for a vertical support and add dumb little tabs to bolt to as it was too short. My cab is about 38.25" from front to back (inside to inside).

I'll have to modify it later for a less "hokey" fit, but it is sturdy even this way.



My extension tabs I bent:


Wiring up resettable fuses and switches for the cheap little 24 V to 12 V converter and for the CB

 

[Valence]

 

[M813A1]

If you want to use a Military antenna consider using the AB-15 Antenna base with the MS-116, MS-117 and the MS-118 antenna sections . Using that setup and with an overall length from antenna base to tip of antenna of 106" to 110" inches that will give you Good performance for your CB. That is the setup I use on my M813A1 5 ton Cargo truck.

 

[Merc1973]

Thanks Valence. I'm a fellow CB nerd as well. I prefer to use Times-LMR 240 ultraflex in all my applications since it has less loss and better shielding. 240-uf is the same size as RG-8X. I read the other threads about converting the rotary style base to 27 MHz which looked like a lot of work. That kit you bought was pricey but may be worth the time you save in DIY. To be safe, I would buy a cheap SWR meter from Radio shack or borrow someones MFJ tuner because i never trust those built in SWR meters. Your install looks top-notch!

I was thinking of installing a Mil antenna as a dummy and also installing a 102" steel whip for CB on the other side of the truck.

 

[Valence]

Thanks Valence. I'm a fellow CB nerd as well. I prefer to use Times-LMR 240 ultraflex in all my applications since it has less loss and better shielding. 240-uf is the same size as RG-8X. I read the other threads about converting the rotary style base to 27 MHz which looked like a lot of work. That kit you bought was pricey but may be worth the time you save in DIY. To be safe, I would buy a cheap SWR meter from Radio shack or borrow someones MFJ tuner because i never trust those built in SWR meters. Your install looks top-notch!

I was thinking of installing a Mil antenna as a dummy and also installing a 102" steel whip for CB on the other side of the truck.

Thanks Merc1973! Though you easily know much more about CB than I do. I played with CB when growing up, but I don't remember squat from that so I'm having to search the interwebs and read, read, read. I'll definitely need to take your advice and try a separate SWR meter as I have yet to pick up anyone. You are absolutely right, it was a pricey set up, but it did save me a lot of time and hassle not finding or modifying my own antenna or building my own overhead console. (I still need to "acquire" a welder and get in much practice...). "ThoseMilitaryGuys" knocked off $40 from the price of the antenna mount for not including the sugar scoop. I purchased the mount and offset bracket from machinist75. Still need to put the cool sticker on.

I think the wiring turned out nice with insulated connectors, crimps, and heat shrink on all the ends. Except, the wire just dangling running up to the overhead console. I matched all the "hot" and ground connectors so it could not be connected backwards. I should have taken more pictures of each step as that would be far more instructional and interesting than me just rambling about it, but if I remember, I will try to go take a few more pics.

I ran 12 gauge 2-conductor wire up from the batteries. I placed the ground on my battery disconnect (so the overhead console would also be off if the battery disconnect was engaged), and I put a water proof 40A in-line fuse on the hot line (maximum safe load for 12 gauge in chassis wiring - so I could tap into the 12 gauge line later if I wanted, but fuses are easy to change!). That runs up to the center resettable 20A fuse (maximum for my dinky 24v to 12v converter), and then the center SPST (Single-Pole Single Throw) switch. This is my master power switch for the overhead console. I wanted the ability to turn off the converter.

I wish I had added another switch to the side though so I could then actually wire up my 24V interior black-out lights (seen in the far corners of the hard top). Well, another time for that.

12v power then flows out of the converter to the two side fuses and switches.

The fuse and switch closest to the driver is a 10A resettable fuse (might replace it with a 5A resettable, later), then another SPST switch. This allows me to keep my volume set on the Uniden Grant XL CB and then just use the switch to turn it on/off. Funny note here: I didn't want to cut or modify the power cord for the CB, so I wired a regular accessory outlet and attached it to one of the CB mount bolts (seen in the 2nd and 3rd pictures in my last post above). The power line on the CB has its own cylindrical 5A fuse too.
Oddly, this was only $3.00 locally, but this is exactly what I used:
http://www.amazon.com/Custom-Access...ZI/ref=sr_1_76?ie=UTF8&qid=1402510009&sr=8-76

The resettable fuse and and SPST switch closest to the passenger side is for another pair of accessory outlets that I have sitting down, wedged in the passenger seat (not pictured). It provides 2 outlets and 2 slots. I use it to hold and charge my phone.

 

[Valence]

Snapped a couple pictures of the cell phone holder that is meant to be wedged between seats or console in cars. Fits really well on the passenger fold down seat. I need to put in a longer cord for it.

Obviously it's kind of in the way for folding down the seat but no so much that I can't still fold it part way (hence, needing a longer cord) and access anything (switches, VIC etc) behind the seat mounted, say, on the back of the cab - though there is nothing of the sort at the moment.

 

[Valence]

Until I actually bother getting my VIC-1 mounted/installed and my MP3/phone adapted to play through it, I've opted for these Howard Leight hearing protection. For me, I like that they're powered by my device, it makes them lighter on my head. I find them farily comfortable - not too tight on the head/ears at all. If anything, I just wish they would extend down another 1/2 inch so the over-the-head strap wouldn't need to be so snug against the top of my head.

At the time of this posting (10/06/2014) they're less than 1/2 what I paid in August and now at $16.00. I'm not advertising for them, just sharing what I like with my MV friends.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004U4A5RU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The sound isn't the best in the world but perfectly fine and able to go much louder than I care it to be. I could listen to audio books on long trips if I wanted (you can hear the audio that well - of course I do have a very small 3-4 dB muffler)

So I just have my phone sitting in the little holder there next to me (as seen in the above post), attached to these stereo muffs. Works great for me. I LOVE it!

I'll need to check the CB, if there is an audio out, I might even be able to pipe the CB over to these stereo muffs so I can actually hear the CB while driving.

 

[Mrmag1]

subed.