M1010 CUCV Cab/ Front AC

[JG Sky Soldier]

Does anyone have a CUCV M1010 that has a front / cab AC added that actually works.... I interested in how the exsisting (Rear) AC is tapped into, etc. for the cab unit? Thanks

 

[Recovry4x4]

Panzerwillie has done this. Sadly, no part of the rear A/C can be used for the install. The only thing you can use is the compressor. The evaporater and condensor are contained in the unit above your head. Many members have tried creative ducting but I've not seen one worth a darn.

 

[mkcoen]

Many members have tried creative ducting but I've not seen one worth a darn.

Exactly! I could keep the box at 70 and the cab would stay around 90+. I did finally get it to where I could cool my right shoulder but that was about it.

 

[JG Sky Soldier]

I know I am reaching but I want to see IF there is anyway to interphase
BOTh units.... With both the evaporator and condensor in the upper unit
there is a problem tapping into the line between the two to create a
unit similar to a Yukon's front and rear air.... Trying to see IF anyone
has any ideas....

 

[brazengoat06]

has anyone thought about creating a negative pressure on the cab while leaving the sliding door open and the rear A/C on? Thus moving the cold air into the cab. One could do this (Possibly) by reversing current to the blower motor? Maybe... Never used a blower motor that way. But its so crazy it just might work. Maybe...









.Maybe...

 

[Csm Davis]

I know I am reaching but I want to see IF there is anyway to interphase
BOTh units.... With both the evaporator and condensor in the upper unit
there is a problem tapping into the line between the two to create a
unit similar to a Yukon's front and rear air.... Trying to see IF anyone
has any ideas....

I would think that you should be able to do just that, the system is so large as is that the small cab unit shouldn't be a hard thing to get to work.

 

[icecreamman]

What's the symptom?

Is either unit cooling at all? I am unfamiliar with the stock setup or what you are running. I have a Suburban with front and rear air. I'll have to check with my "crack" GM parts specialists to find out if there are any differences in the liquid receivers and compressors between the "front only" vs "dual zone" A/C in my $48k when new '99 Suburban was produced.

I'm "low temp" by trade. BTU's are BTU's', just gotta move them around where we want them. In '84, we were using r-12. Using r134a in an r12 system drops efficiency 15% automatically. Capacity is Capacity. Cant get 12k btu's out of a system designed for 9k without doing strange things.

 

[CUCVLOVER]

Which box does the cold air come out of, the red one or the blue one?
I don't see why you could not just make a duct work with insolation to pipe the cold air into the cab.

I might be wrong, this is just my idea.
feel free to yell at me

Why could you not just tie in to the lines coming off the compressor and run them to a under dash unit like the one pictured

 

[Jozseph]

CUCVLOVER,

The second photo of the under dash unit, who manufactures and or makes the unit?

Thank You

Joseph

 

[icecreamman]

I am not familiar with the set-up of the box unit. I just checked with my GM parts guru and on dual air Suburbans, the liquid receiver has another tap off the side that goes to the rear unit.

Does the box unit also contain the condenser or are you using one installed in front of the radiator? I specifically asked if there were any difference between the compressors and they are the same. You can only run one condenser.

 

[icecreamman]

Also, the best I can recall, you were using r12a. I tried to use some of that 20yrs ago on a low temp application and it failed miserably. I think I still have some Hotshot you can try. I have used Hotshot in high, medium and low temp systems with excellent results.

 

[icecreamman]

Just re-read post #4 .


#1--build up a complete factory A/C setup in the cab including the condenser. #2--Tap off the liquid receiver under the hood to the rooftop unit. #3--Completely bypass the condenser on the roof (only use the metering device ,evaporator and fan unit. #4--- pipe the rooftop suction line to the suction accumulator under the hood.

If you don't add a solenoid on both metering devices, you can't operate them independently.


This is the same set-up used in grocery stores and on a mini-sized scale----Slurpee machines.

Send me a PM with your number---Lost it.

 

[icecreamman]

I hear crickets. Im four miles away.

 

[icecreamman]

I have a Suburban with front/rear air. I can duplicate it.



It ain't rocket science, I'm a former 463x0 :0

 

[icecreamman]

crickets still. I need projects. Most of my daily interactions involve people with an IQ under 50.

 

[Recovry4x4]

It is your turn to show your IQ. Many have tried what you propose and many have failed. I pointed out the obvious but if you feel it possible, do it and show it off. Your right, not rocket science but A/C can present it's own challenges. Let's be real here. If it were easy, all the M1010 owners (myself included) would have done it.

 

[icecreamman]

I need a test rat.



I have very little time to do, only time to specifically direct.


Twenty minutes of quiet "hands on".


You cant make a refrigeration system work with one compressor,two condensors and two evaporators at the same time. Boyles law.

 

[icecreamman]

i'll add, without a lot a lot of valves.

 

[icecreamman]

i'll add, without a lot a lot of valves.

 

[jpg]

My old Chevy van had front and rear A/C... One compressor. I could run both at once. I don't know how they did that, but it seems to be both possible and a common option for long vehicles like vans and suburbans.

I'm having enough trouble getting the as-built a/c to work in my M1010. I'm not ready to make my problems more complicated.