Modifying My Deuce

[rustystud]

Safety is my first priority, which is why I am focusing on brakes, suspension, and making sure it can handle well enough before I change out the engine and transmission to add more power and speed.

I am not very familiar with the detroit diesels on the more intimate level I have never worked on them before. How reliable are they? Still well supported in the aftermarket? How long-lived are the engines? Of the two-stroke detroits, which ones do you think would be best for swapping into a deuce? Is the 6-71 really too long? And lastly, with the stock differentials in the rockwells and considering the engine choice, what would be some of the best transmissions to look around for to complete the swap?

All 2 Stroke Detroits need RPM's to get there HP. You would need a tranny with close gearing and lots of them to really move the deuce. You never bog down a 2 stroke Detroit. It's been said before in this thread, just turn up your pump and get a Pyro to make sure you don't go over 1200F ( 1100F is better ) and then get "M35tom's" overdrive kit.

 

[jason41987]

Well, I will have to give more thought to engine/tranny options. I'd like to go detroit but im not sure its best for an offroad vehicle, low-end torque would be better from a larger displacement engine.

Let's talk about suspension for a moment. If I'm not mistaken, this deuce is set up like any conventional pickup truck from the 1950-60s with the main difference between size being that it has a tandem rear end. Wheels slip and the deuce loses power. I see people adding detroit or ARB lockers to their trucks

I'm trying to understand better how the tandems work. Is the linkage between the front and rear tandem axles fixed or does the split work more like a differential that allows the front or rear axle to spin faster than the other? I'm assuming it's completely locked between the two, meaning lockers would be all that we need to improve rear end traction.

Also in my drivetrain modifications I will be using a different transfer case as well, I would like to be able to go into a 6x4 mode, and unlock the front wheels (likely with lockout hubs.)

 

[welldigger]

The rear tandems share power equally. There is no differential between them. Each axle gets theoretically equal torque. Each wheel has a slip factor through the differential unless you add a locker. If you have the air shift transfer case then it already has 4x6 until you throw the switch to engage the front axle. So unless you need a stronger one then what you want is already there.

 

[jason41987]

The rear tandems share power equally. There is no differential between them. Each axle gets theoretically equal torque. Each wheel has a slip factor through the differential unless you add a locker. If you have the air shift transfer case then it already has 4x6 until you throw the switch to engage the front axle. So unless you need a stronger one then what you want is already there.

Well, I will probably increase power to 250-300hp and likely more than 600ft/lbs of torque. I know the transmission wont handle this, so I dont think the transfer case could either so for now I'm assuming I would need a new transfer case too.

ARB lockers are about twice the price of detroits, so I must ask how much of an improvement are the air lockers over the detroits? And which is going to be the more durable, reliable option?

 

[welldigger]

Priced a fabco or marmon Herrington transfer case recently? You will be looking at $2000 plus for a used one. Not trying to shoot you down but your project is getting rather expensive for a deuce project. But if you have the money then go for it.

As far as the lockers I like the arb air locker the best. That's because you can select when you want it. The Detroit locker locks up when you give it throttle. I can't comment on which is stronger or more reliable.

 

[jason41987]

Priced a fabco or marmon Herrington transfer case recently? You will be looking at $2000 plus for a used one. Not trying to shoot you down but your project is getting rather expensive for a deuce project. But if you have the money then go for it.

As far as the lockers I like the arb air locker the best. That's because you can select when you want it. The Detroit locker locks up when you give it throttle. I can't comment on which is stronger or more reliable.

What I don't get about preferring ARB over detroits is this. Why would you need to lock an axle if you're not trying to go anywhere? It just seems to me you really only need them to be locked when youre trying to move anyway, right?

As for the costs of this project, this isnt going to be an all at once project. I will work on these individual projects leading up to the full modification one piece at a time. I will first add 46' single tires. convert with brakes, then add lockout front hubs, lockers in the rear first, I may or may not add lockers to the front. And then add power steering and air-adjustable shock absorbers.

Then I will work on the interior. I'm not sure where i can add a receiver for audio, either move the gauges around, fabricate and install a center console, I don't know where yet. I will install a better heater, a real air conditioner, and insulate the inside of the tub and then apply some carpeting over top of it so the interior isnt all bare cold metal. I will replace the seats for larger, more comfortable truck seats. I may even fabricate a new, insulated soft top.

Meanwhile, after I've decided on the drivetrain I will use, I will buy a used engine, transmission, and work on the engine out of the truck, rebuild it, make modifications, improvements before doing the engine swap.

I will probably do things to the exterior to spruce it up, beautification if you will. This will be lowest of priorities.

In total, it will probably take me 5-10 years to do everything as i will spread this out more given the costs.

 

[jason41987]

Quick question, does anyone know what GAWR the rockwells would be rated at if they were rated in this manner? 2.5 ton is how much the carrying capacity of the truck is but if im not mistaken, GAWR also includes the weight of the vehicle too. I guess 10,000lbs for the on-road carrying capacity + the weight of the vehicle?