• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Do I need a transmision cooler?

AECS

Member
305
3
18
Location
Munford, TN
The recent thread about the towing capability of the M1009 has brought up a question. In 6 months from now (late january) I will be moving across country From CA to TN.

I will be towing my 2001 Hyundai Elantra (2500 pounds) as well as having about 1000 in the back of the 09. I know what the ratings are, but dont have much choice as the Elantra sure aint towing the 09. I have redone the cooling system, (Radiator, heater core, hoses, thermostat). Brakes on all 4 corners, new HD shocks on all corners. My last concern is the transmision cooler, do I need to put an aux cooler in for the trip? Probably going the southern route along the 8/10 freeway and heading north, so other then the one mountain range east of San Diego it will be flat running.
 

cbear

Member
244
4
18
Location
Cincinnati, OH
Can't hurt anything, and they are cheap. I'm a proponent of a filtering kit as well. I like the ones that use a spin on filter, but even a magnafine would be good.
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
4,524
811
113
Location
Virginia
Probably going the southern route along the 8/10 freeway and heading north, so other then the one mountain range east of San Diego it will be flat running.
That one mountain range? Think again. You have the southern tail of the Sierra Nevada to get through, and then the Rocky Mountains. The southern route isn't bad at all for grade, because it's spread out over a larger area, but you'll still be hauling uphill for a long way. And then, depending on where in TN, you may have some hills to deal with.

I'm with the others. Do the cooler! A trans cooler is a LOT cheaper than a new transmission put in by the nearest shop when you can't shop around because you fried on the road. And the towing bill won't be fun, either.

Consider putting it BEFORE the radiator, instead of after, like almost everybody does. That way you'll dump the heat out into the air, instead of dumping it all in your radiator.
 

ODFever

Madness Takes Its Toll...
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,011
73
48
Location
Orlando, FL
I've towed 4,000+ lbs with my M1009. I have a few tips for you, and some 'food for thought'. Take your truck to a reputable hitch installer and have them mount a Class III hitch on your truck (if you don't already have one). Please read post #5 and #11 from this thread to see pictures of my hitch. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?93401-M1009-Towing&highlight=trailer+hitch
Install a quality trailer brake controller. Read through all of the CUCV towing threads so you have an idea of what you're in for. Read the CUCV recovery threads to see what tools and spare parts you might need.
Are you renting or borrowing a trailer? Does the trailer have electric brakes? (Make sure you have a trailer with electric brakes. I learned that the hard way, and it led to a severe case of soiled underwear!!)
Have you replaced the radiator fan clutch? Is your water pump in good shape? Have you checked/repacked the wheel bearings? Have you greased all the zerks? Have you prepared a list of spare CUCV parts for the trip? Do you have a well stocked tool box prepared? Have you mapped out your route to include emergency stops & Steel Soldiers members that are along your route in case you have a mechanical failure? Do you have AAA Plus or Gold?
 

HETvet

Member
395
6
18
Location
Bedford, texas
I say go for it. And as extra insurance install a coolant filter and use Evans waterless coolant. Spring for the high flow water pump and dual thermostat as well. And all should be well.
 
92
1
6
Location
Navasota, TX
That one mountain range? Think again. You have the southern tail of the Sierra Nevada to get through, and then the Rocky Mountains. The southern route isn't bad at all for grade, because it's spread out over a larger area, but you'll still be hauling uphill for a long way. And then, depending on where in TN, you may have some hills to deal with.

I'm with the others. Do the cooler! A trans cooler is a LOT cheaper than a new transmission put in by the nearest shop when you can't shop around because you fried on the road. And the towing bill won't be fun, either.

Consider putting it BEFORE the radiator, instead of after, like almost everybody does. That way you'll dump the heat out into the air, instead of dumping it all in your radiator.
I see your point but won't the coolant heat the fluid back up? Seems like the cooling capacity for the truck is adequate enough to handle the tranny and it would help the fluid life to cool it on its way back in it.

Brett
 

HETvet

Member
395
6
18
Location
Bedford, texas
I have to find it again, but it's a 130 GPM water pump and in combination with the dual thermostat it equalizes the flow through the engine. In factory system, one bank get more flow than the other, or something like that. Be back in a little bit with where the sources are.
 

Skinny

Well-known member
2,130
487
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
Holy big money batman

Since all those rigs have a serpentine drive, that is probably a reverse rotation water pump. I'm assuming that will require a belt drive change in a Cuck?
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks