Service drive light's problem

[lucite]

I'm having a problem with the service drive lights on my m35a2 and it's a bit baffling. As far as I can tell the problem started after I pulled off the front right fender to do the body work on it. When I put the fender back on and reconnected all the lighting, (with the truck running) I went to try the service drive lights and all they do is flash then it sounds like the breaker kicks off then it will kick on for a second then off again. I also noticed that when service drive is selected it puts load on the generator causing the gauge to dip into the yellow for a second then when the breaker kicks off it normalizes. I also get no lights when park is selected but all the blackout positions work fine. So I'm left a bit stumped, when I initially took the fender off I was sure to tag all the wires so they went back to their respective plug and I also checked and rechecked the ground. Could it possibly be that I miss marked a wire and all it is is a crossed wire or is the issue something different.

 

[Ferroequinologist]

I would recheck the wiring. Lots of times the insulation can rub off at sharp edges and you messing with it might have rubbed something raw. Double check your connections as well. maybe ensure a clean ground between the fender and the frame too.

 

[welldigger]

Sounds to me like a short.

 

[steelandcanvas]

I agree with Welldigger, sounds like a short, you've pinched a wire somewhere. Re-trace the headlight wires back from the headlight, physically searching every inch.

 

[Warthog]

It is a dead short (as opposed to a live short... ). I would disconnect the headlight and see what happens

 

[Coffey1]

If he has pinch a wire unhooking the head light will not help it.
Like steel said go back and check and recheck .
Also I don't know if polarity makes a problem or not it did with my led lights positive had to go to positive or they would not work.

 

[lucite]

I checked the wires nothing is pinched, some had the coating coming off but were not shorting. I also disconnected the light and still the same thing is happening. I'm Starting to think it's the switch, what I thought was a breaker was actually the switch ticking so unless the switch has some sort of internal breaker I'm at a loss as to what the problem is.

 

[Coffey1]

OK also check the connection to the switch. The connector to my turn signal worked loose and was acting weird.
Also my switch was not making good snap it hard.
I think think the contacts get dirty.

 

[lucite]

also checked that, I pulled the switch, removed the plug looked to see if the contacts were dirty then put it back and tightened it and still nothing.

 

[Coffey1]

Take connector off switch unhook batts and start ohm test and see if you find wire shorted to ground.

 

[lucite]

I did a continuity test on the plug and the results were this

A- no
B- yes
C- yes
D- yes
E- yes
F- yes
H- yes
J- no
K-no
L-yes
M-yes
N-yes

 

[Coffey1]

OK that may have not worked.
I am use to ac not DC .
I wonder if unplugging from the lights because you are reading ground through the lamps
Also if someone could do the test another deuce and see if they get same results.
I would do it but don't have deuce

 

[lucite]

I checked the continuity of the switch and all seems to be fine and I believe the plug is also fine because the pins that didn't have continuity go to the brake and turn signal switches. However I'm now starting to believe the switch is the culprit because the wiring seems to be sound and the switch was making that ticking sound causing excessive load and making the lights flicker in sync with the ticking.

Edit: I did a quick google search and it brought me to a thread started by another member. It seems my suspicions would be correct or in the very least a good possibility in that the 3 lever light switch does in fact have an internal self resetting breaker, and from what was said in the post (http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?129968-M35A2-Lights) it would most likely be one of three possibilities, a short which I believe I ruled out, too much load which again I believe can be ruled out because there were no issues prior to the fender coming off and nothing was added, or a weak breaker. So it looks like I'll be ordering a new switch.

 

[Jeepsinker]

If you have any places where the insulation is rotting off of the wires, you need to fix those spots with fresh wire and solder the joints. Water gets in and causes corrosion inside of the wire which causes many different problems. Spent today replacing my whole front turn signal harness because of this.

 

[welldigger]

I checked the continuity of the switch and all seems to be fine and I believe the plug is also fine because the pins that didn't have continuity go to the brake and turn signal switches. However I'm now starting to believe the switch is the culprit because the wiring seems to be sound and the switch was making that ticking sound causing excessive load and making the lights flicker in sync with the ticking.

Edit: I did a quick google search and it brought me to a thread started by another member. It seems my suspicions would be correct or in the very least a good possibility in that the 3 lever light switch does in fact have an internal self resetting breaker, and from what was said in the post (http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?129968-M35A2-Lights) it would most likely be one of three possibilities, a short which I believe I ruled out, too much load which again I believe can be ruled out because there were no issues prior to the fender coming off and nothing was added, or a weak breaker. So it looks like I'll be ordering a new switch.

Is it your master power switch clicking or the 3 lever switch?

If it's the master power clicking or making noise then it could be shorting internally.

If it's your 3 lever switch then the clicking is the internal breaker cycling. This indicates a short.

Never ignore wire insulation rotting away. While you had the fender off some of the insulation could have flaked off of a wire and could be causing the short where bare wire is touching metal.

 

[rustystud]

Is it your master power switch clicking or the 3 lever switch?

If it's the master power clicking or making noise then it could be shorting internally.

If it's your 3 lever switch then the clicking is the internal breaker cycling. This indicates a short.

Never ignore wire insulation rotting away. While you had the fender off some of the insulation could have flaked off of a wire and could be causing the short where bare wire is touching metal.

I agree with welldigger . The switch is more then likely switching off since there is a short to ground ! You must find and repair this first ! The switch is actually doing it's job, preventing a fire ! or other damage to your electrical system.

 

[Coffey1]

I agree absolutely make sure the wiring has no shorts to ground.
Now that being said that switch will do some weird crap.
Had to replace mine. Go ahead and get a switch and try it won't hurt a thing to have a spare if it doesn't fix it.
Also until this problem is tracked down I would not leave the batts hooked up.

 

[lucite]

Now I just feel silly, turns out it was a pinched wire shorting to ground now I just have to re-solder it and all will be good.

 

[Warthog]

Ahhh... the simple things.

Glad you found it.

 

[welldigger]

Now I just feel silly, turns out it was a pinched wire shorting to ground now I just have to re-solder it and all will be good.

View attachment 520271

Glad you found the problem.