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M1009 no electrical power

jet fixer

New member
4
0
0
Location
St Louis. Mo
This has me baffled. Go to start truck turn key all dash lights come on as they should. Wait light goes out turn key and click. All power is gone. No headlights dash or tail lights no starter no nothing. Now it is like the batteries aren't even hooked up. Cleaned all battery and bus bar connections reconnected and nothing. Electrical system is stock 24v12v and has not been hacked and is in good condition. This has been my dd for 4 months and has never done this or had any electrical problems. New rear battery the front is good. Any advise on what to check next would great thanks
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
NY
Load test your batteries.
 

AECS

Member
310
6
18
Location
Munford, TN
Check for voltage at both your terminal blocks. Then at each junction after them till you dont find voltage. You problem is between the last good and first zero reading. Shure sounds like batteries or battery cable/ ground.
 

nyoffroad

Well-known member
942
690
93
Location
Rochester NY
That one click sure sounds like a bad connection somewhere like battery,cables ect. Start at the battery terminal itself with a test light (better to use a volt meter) and just start looking for current or the lack of it.
 

Smokingman

Member
64
1
8
Location
Two Harbors MN
I had a similar issue on my M1009.Changed every fuseable link.Cleaned the fuse box and many connections.I checked voltage everywhere and it let to the conclusion I had a bad ground somewhere.Started chasing grounds all over and cleaning them.Finally when I had almost given up after two days of chasing electrical I decided to just run a new ground from the driver side alternator.$8.00 in wire and a few ends,one self tapping bolt,hit the frame with a grinder and put in a new ground. Poof problem solved.

When a friend started having all kinds of mystery electrical issues on his 1008 we did the same on his truck.New ground to the frame and he has not had an issue since.

I do not think the driver side alternator is grounded to a good location(both of the above where grounded to the front most manifold bolt) and it is much easier to move it to a better location on the frame than chase electrical gremlins.
 

jet fixer

New member
4
0
0
Location
St Louis. Mo
I had a similar issue on my M1009.Changed every fuseable link.Cleaned the fuse box and many connections.I checked voltage everywhere and it let to the conclusion I had a bad ground somewhere.Started chasing grounds all over and cleaning them.Finally when I had almost given up after two days of chasing electrical I decided to just run a new ground from the driver side alternator.$8.00 in wire and a few ends,one self tapping bolt,hit the frame with a grinder and put in a new ground. Poof problem solved.

When a friend started having all kinds of mystery electrical issues on his 1008 we did the same on his truck.New ground to the frame and he has not had an issue since.

I do not think the driver side alternator is grounded to a good location(both of the above where grounded to the front most manifold bolt) and it is much easier to move it to a better location on the frame than chase electrical gremlins.
Well you were all right it was a battery conection. The previous owners battery conections looked clean and strong but after some trouble shooting and removal of some heat shrink i saw that instead crinping the connectors on they sodered the ends together and the bad one had a cold soder joint. With every thing hooked up you could wiggle every thing and nothing would flicker or anything but all the connections felt good and tight. I Got it fixed thanks for the support
 

svlsmokey

Member
66
1
6
Location
N/E Calif.
Just experienced this problem today. Turned the key, waited for the glow plugs, light went out, turned the key and got about a sluggish quarter turn out of the starter and then it all went dead. No power to the ignition or lights. Only thing different is that the rear battery was dead which made me think that something - some switch or relay - was stuck closed and was drawing power. I charged the battery up and still no power.

I'll clean the terminals. Batteries are only a year or so old as are the cables. I'll try a ground and see if that does it. Any other ideas are welcome.
 
Last edited:

jet fixer

New member
4
0
0
Location
St Louis. Mo
Just experienced this problem today. Turned the key, waited for the glow plugs, light went out, turned the key and got about a sluggish quarter turn out of the starter and then it all went dead. No power to the ignition or lights. Only thing different is that the rear battery was dead which made me think that something - some switch or relay - was stuck closed and was drawing power. I charged the battery up and still no power.

I'll clean the terminals. Batteries are only a year or so old as are the cables. I'll try a ground and see if that does it. Any other ideas are welcome.
Sam try this it helped me. Turn your headlights on. Disconnect your batteries so they are not in seris. Make a jumper wire and connect it to the positive post of the charged bat. Then brefly touch the other end of the jumper to the 12v power post mounted on the fire wall. It's the one with three blue wires connected to it. If the headlights come on you know the problem is between that post and the batteries. Check all the wiring from that post back to the batteries. Note don't leave the jumper on the post to long if you us smaller wire it will get hot. Hope this helps
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,434
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Never never use these on any vehicle. They will always fail. Rememeber Never. They are for temporary repairs only. Your CUCV is not a
toy. Use real truck parts on it. NEVER THIS ONE
 

NDT

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
10,458
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Location
Camp Wood/LC, TX
Well you were all right it was a battery conection. The previous owners battery conections looked clean and strong but after some trouble shooting and removal of some heat shrink i saw that instead crinping the connectors on they sodered the ends together and the bad one had a cold soder joint. With every thing hooked up you could wiggle every thing and nothing would flicker or anything but all the connections felt good and tight. I Got it fixed thanks for the support
I fixed someone's M1009 with this EXACT same problem last weekend. I was ready to respond to your thread with a suggestion to look for this problem, but I thought "what are the odds that someone else has a soldered on battery terminal with a cold solder joint?" Now I know!
 

svlsmokey

Member
66
1
6
Location
N/E Calif.
Problem solved. Bad cable between the two batteries. Cleaned up the cable ends, clamps, and posts and it's up and running again. Will replace the cable next summer when the turbo goes in. Thanks all for your help.
 
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