how to turn up fuel...in pictures?

[rebelcummins]

Where did you get the boost gauge?

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

So by looking that picture it doesn't look like I'll need special wrenches.... I'm adjusting the two nuts on the left correct? That's what's under the plate. I work for a trailer manufacturer I have thousands of feet of dot brake line in any color I want pretty much. Will I'm at this I was to replace all the plastic lines at the injectors and take off the the flame heater.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

Hewitt industries talk to Louis

 

[rebelcummins]

Send me a pm on his info.. thanks

 

[Floridianson]

LT. Dan You can do it. Bypass and see if you like it. They say you need to turn down the fuel after bypass but I have tweeked it a bit higher. A proper load test with boost gage and pyro then how and where you drive as in hills or like here in Fl. all most flat. Towing and hills lots of heat. Bobbed and flat not much problem.

 

[Floridianson]

What picture . Hope I did not confuse U with smoke cam droop. Here again is pic of main fuel adjustment stud with double nuts under the little tin cover I posted before. Sorry.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

Ah much better haha I thought I was digging into the internals.... I'm going to get a 1/4" and 1/8" plug tomorrow to bypass the fdc.

Now I'm plugging the fdc obviously with he plugs. Then with the 1/8" elbow that comes off the fdc that is going on the return of the hydraulic head and then that is the main return to the tank correct?

I'm sure i won't be turning the fuel down..... I'll be cranking it up and closely watching the pyro. This looks way more simple then i was thinking..... Can't wait to get her done.... maybe this weekend if it will really be in the high 40's.

 

[Floridianson]

You will be running a new line from finial fuel filter to the injection head. Some just loop the lines off the FDC back to the FDC so they can put it back together. I plug mine on the FDC. Then you have to deal with the return line on the front side of the Head. It still has to have a return to the secondary fuel filter just not the FDC.

Not to harp on boost but boost and resistance go together. This is why in the TM they show us how to create drag/ resistance with the brakes. A truck chassie dyno would be the perfect way to tweek one's own truck. The looking for a hill thing well it would be hard to allways dupclate the conditions every time to check boost and run up the temps.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

Ok so I took a good look tonight. I need two plugs and I ordered some ferrules and inserts today. My only question is the return line from the injectors comes back to the hydraulic head and also the fdc. Now I know the fdc is not going back there but you mentioned returning it to the secondary filters but where? Also my line is plenty long enough to reach the hydraulic head for the supply line. If not for some weird reason I grabbed a bunch of 1/4" and 3/8" dot air line to use too.

 

[Floridianson]

[QUOTE=RoughCountryRam; It seems to be safe long term as many old school vets say this was done a lot during service.
Yea they did not want there but's chewed out for cutting the saftey wire as it is a sure way of telling of tampering.
The main fuel adjustment will give you more control over the movement and give a better tune up.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

So i bypassed the fdc today and installed my pyro and boost gauge and let me tell you night and day difference. I can't believe how much better the truck runs. I didn't even bump the fuel up yet but I already think someone did or it is up from factory cause its still wired. The bypass was supper simple. I used plugs and ran a new line to the hydraulic head. I also completely removed the flame heater lines. I'm hoping this helps the truck start when it's cold. I'll find out tomorrow its supposed to be 20° in the am so I'll see what the difference is. Thanks for all the help guys.

Also what do you guys think on this.... do I have room to bump fuel up more? At 55 the truck is running around 5 psi boost and around 800° on the pyro. If I get on it hard pulling out the pyro will come up to around 1000°. I went and pulled a long hill near my house which is about two miles long. Before I had to drop it in 4th now I can pull it in 5th about 1/2 to 2/3rd throttle the pyro is right around 1000° to 1100°. If I go full throttle i can get it close to 1200°. Sounds like I do have have a little room I could always just back out of the pedal if it gets to hot. Also pulling that hill it's running around 12 psi at 1/2 to 2/3 Throttle and will easily hit 15 at full throttle

 

[brianp454]

My results have been similar to yours. I installed mine pyro pre-turbo and ran it for a while before bypassing the FDC. I found I never got over 5 psi of boost! I also noticed there was a lot of variance in power. Sometimes it would run much better than other times and I noticed the boost generally followed that trend, i.e. if boost would not come up at all or limit to 3 psi I couldn't get any power vs. if it went right to 5 it would feel strong. I generally only got boost when really tached up. My theory is that the FDC would often under and over compensate and the result would be noticeable changes in fuel\power.

Now with the FDC bypassed my observations are similar to yours and allow me control. I like it! I'm considering bumping up the peak fuel a tad (not the droop screw for ~<2000 RPM). Or I would like to look at mild water injection for times I need a boost in power.

So i bypassed the fdc today and installed my pyro and boost gauge and let me tell you night and day difference. I can't believe how much better the truck runs. I didn't even bump the fuel up yet but I already think someone did or it is up from factory cause its still wired. The bypass was supper simple. I used plugs and ran a new line to the hydraulic head. I also completely removed the flame heater lines. I'm hoping this helps the truck start when it's cold. I'll find out tomorrow its supposed to be 20° in the am so I'll see what the difference is. Thanks for all the help guys.

Also what do you guys think on this.... do I have room to bump fuel up more? At 55 the truck is running around 5 psi boost and around 800° on the pyro. If I get on it hard pulling out the pyro will come up to around 1000°. I went and pulled a long hill near my house which is about two miles long. Before I had to drop it in 4th now I can pull it in 5th about 1/2 to 2/3rd throttle the pyro is right around 1000° to 1100°. If I go full throttle i can get it close to 1200°. Sounds like I do have have a little room I could always just back out of the pedal if it gets to hot. Also pulling that hill it's running around 12 psi at 1/2 to 2/3 Throttle and will easily hit 15 at full throttle

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

Yeah same here Idk if my fdc was bad it ran ok but now is way better. I dumped in 15 or so gallons of hydraulic fluid in last week and the truck ran like crap.... would barely get to 55 and I thought great this multifuel idea was bad and now I'm stuck with 200 some gallons of oil. I know the hydraulic fluid was running through the truck cause when I changed the filters it was in there too. Now with the fdc bypassed it runs freakin awesome. I have 4 55 gallon drums of oil settling for 3 months now and is ready to be processed. I put another 5 gallons of clean hydraulic fluid in today along with some gear oil and a few quarts of new old stock motor oil and the truck eats it right up.... I'm at almost full tank and I'll put some gas in tomorrow to top it off.

I'm going to drive the truck to work a few days this week with just the fdc bypassed then I'm going to crank the fuel up a few flats and see how it handles that and watch the egt

 

[Woodsplinter]

Just thought I would add these photos so folks could see where the adjustment rod and nuts are located.



Hope this helps!

 

[yagenrok636]

Just added my boost gauge and pyrometers to my M35A2.

In 4th up a long hill, 100% throttle, couldn't quite get to 2500 rpms, gauge showed 5 pounds of boost and almost 950 degrees. So if the hill had been longer, or if I would have had any load (I don't even have a bed on right now), it'll be higher obviously, but I want more boost and more power.

Im going to turn my fuel up tomorrow and retest/adjust all day. Then I'll probably end up by-passing the FDC.

 

[doghead]

Bypass it first, it will increase your fuel rate.

 

[yagenrok636]

Well...I was going to first, but I figured it was easier. Plus, if I got some more fuel out of it and got it around 1200* I'd be done.

 

[brianp454]

I agree with doghead. I got similar measurements (pre-turbo) you report before bypassing my FDC, yet did not need to turn up the fuel afterwards. There are other advantages to bypassing the FDC, such as eliminating the path to dillute your motor oil with fuel, etc. As far as being easier, I don't agree with that. Bypasiing the FDC is pretty simple; I even made a youtube video! Being done by bypassing the FDC is better than being done by turning up the fuel.

Just added my boost gauge and pyrometers to my M35A2.

In 4th up a long hill, 100% throttle, couldn't quite get to 2500 rpms, gauge showed 5 pounds of boost and almost 950 degrees. So if the hill had been longer, or if I would have had any load (I don't even have a bed on right now), it'll be higher obviously, but I want more boost and more power.

Im going to turn my fuel up tomorrow and retest/adjust all day. Then I'll probably end up by-passing the FDC.

 

[Floridianson]

yagenrok636. Hear what doghead and brian are saying with there fingers.

 

[yagenrok636]

I agree with doghead. I got similar measurements (pre-turbo) you report before bypassing my FDC, yet did not need to turn up the fuel afterwards. There are other advantages to bypassing the FDC, such as eliminating the path to dillute your motor oil with fuel, etc. As far as being easier, I don't agree with that. Bypasiing the FDC is pretty simple; I even made a youtube video! Being done by bypassing the FDC is better than being done by turning up the fuel.

Sold. I'm by-passing the FDC today.