Hasdrubal
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- Vancouver BC
6 years ago my starter failed, started grinding the flexplate. It had been cranking slow since I got it 2 1/2 years earlier, the guy who sold it to me said they were all like that. Went to a friends shop, where there were plenty of CUCV parts kicking about in case I needed something.
He recommended shimming it, bought some shims, tried different combos, all to no avail. Pulled it apart to find that the shaft had worn clear through the endplate bearing and substantially into the end cap, it was shot. Scrounged around, found another end cap. Went to the local parts store, they had a 27MT rebuild kit in stock for $60, my cost $40. Fairly straightforward to rebuild, until I came to the end cap bushing. It fit the end cap but the inside diameter was too small for the shaft. I'm guessing that the person who placed all the parts in the box got this one wrong.
Being away from home with an inoperable M1009, I had to get it going that day. didn't have access to a lathe, all I could think of was to carefully take a die-grinder from both ends and slowly enlarge the I.D. until it would fit the shaft. I know..this is far from being even remotely acceptable from an engineering standpoint, but was simply a field expedient modification. Did I mention that it was - 6, snowing, into my second day there as I also went to replace a failed thermostat, no heat is really noticeable when its that cold. The bolt broke for the thermostat housing, so I had to swap in another water crossover pipe.
Got the ID of the bushing to fit reasonably well given the extremely primitive method of material removal. Put starter in using the same bolts torqued by hand feel ( I didn't know the bolts required replacing). It spun the engine so fast it startled me. So, this is what its supposed to start like. Later on I replaced the flex plate when I had the transmission rebuilt. Its been spinning fast, trouble free, engine firing within a second, all these years. Lately it seems to have slowed a little in cranking rpm's, requiring another second to fire.
That bushing mod I did had always been nagging me. So, I've decided to rebuild it again, pre-emptively, before it gets hard to start. First I went to the local store and asked for the kit by part number, its now $75. Looking around the net I've seen kits that had a lot more parts than mine came with for only $26. So I sent an e-mail to a firm ( www.aspwholesale.com ) that offered a extensive repair kit and a huge selection of individual components listed. My first question was about kit DR-79-1100 for the 27MT listed as 12V. They confirmed that there are different brushes for the 24V version. Learned something new, reading all the threads here I understood only the solenoid and armature were different. They have since updated their website to show the 24V option.
Heres where it gets weird, I'm e-mailing their tech-service, tell them that I'd like to order an extra set of brushes and bushings as well as the repair kit. I ask for part numbers, they give me a wrong number for the brushes, 68-124, I look at all the specs and see that 68-126 cross references to 1852890 which is correct per the TM.
The part numbers for the bushings are totally confusing me. As well, they send me numbers for 4 bushings. I seem to only recall 3, where would the 4th go? Keeping with the mantra that if something is incorrect "its all suspect", I start cross referencing the bushing numbers. None of the 4 numbers match those in the TM's.
Loking at section 40 of TM 289-34P, it only shows the starter flange bushing -8 1894023. I can't seem to find a number for the end cap or drive end bushing, its not even pictured. So far I've only managed to cross reference the starter flange bushing to 62-1703.
So here's my question to you guys. Does anyone know a number for the end cap bushing or a different source of information to reference? Or any other pertinent data re these bushings. Obviously they're closed until Tuesday and I'd like to get the numbers sorted and the correct parts delivered. I would hate to receive the kit and have an incorrect bearing issue again.
He recommended shimming it, bought some shims, tried different combos, all to no avail. Pulled it apart to find that the shaft had worn clear through the endplate bearing and substantially into the end cap, it was shot. Scrounged around, found another end cap. Went to the local parts store, they had a 27MT rebuild kit in stock for $60, my cost $40. Fairly straightforward to rebuild, until I came to the end cap bushing. It fit the end cap but the inside diameter was too small for the shaft. I'm guessing that the person who placed all the parts in the box got this one wrong.
Being away from home with an inoperable M1009, I had to get it going that day. didn't have access to a lathe, all I could think of was to carefully take a die-grinder from both ends and slowly enlarge the I.D. until it would fit the shaft. I know..this is far from being even remotely acceptable from an engineering standpoint, but was simply a field expedient modification. Did I mention that it was - 6, snowing, into my second day there as I also went to replace a failed thermostat, no heat is really noticeable when its that cold. The bolt broke for the thermostat housing, so I had to swap in another water crossover pipe.
Got the ID of the bushing to fit reasonably well given the extremely primitive method of material removal. Put starter in using the same bolts torqued by hand feel ( I didn't know the bolts required replacing). It spun the engine so fast it startled me. So, this is what its supposed to start like. Later on I replaced the flex plate when I had the transmission rebuilt. Its been spinning fast, trouble free, engine firing within a second, all these years. Lately it seems to have slowed a little in cranking rpm's, requiring another second to fire.
That bushing mod I did had always been nagging me. So, I've decided to rebuild it again, pre-emptively, before it gets hard to start. First I went to the local store and asked for the kit by part number, its now $75. Looking around the net I've seen kits that had a lot more parts than mine came with for only $26. So I sent an e-mail to a firm ( www.aspwholesale.com ) that offered a extensive repair kit and a huge selection of individual components listed. My first question was about kit DR-79-1100 for the 27MT listed as 12V. They confirmed that there are different brushes for the 24V version. Learned something new, reading all the threads here I understood only the solenoid and armature were different. They have since updated their website to show the 24V option.
Heres where it gets weird, I'm e-mailing their tech-service, tell them that I'd like to order an extra set of brushes and bushings as well as the repair kit. I ask for part numbers, they give me a wrong number for the brushes, 68-124, I look at all the specs and see that 68-126 cross references to 1852890 which is correct per the TM.
The part numbers for the bushings are totally confusing me. As well, they send me numbers for 4 bushings. I seem to only recall 3, where would the 4th go? Keeping with the mantra that if something is incorrect "its all suspect", I start cross referencing the bushing numbers. None of the 4 numbers match those in the TM's.
Loking at section 40 of TM 289-34P, it only shows the starter flange bushing -8 1894023. I can't seem to find a number for the end cap or drive end bushing, its not even pictured. So far I've only managed to cross reference the starter flange bushing to 62-1703.
So here's my question to you guys. Does anyone know a number for the end cap bushing or a different source of information to reference? Or any other pertinent data re these bushings. Obviously they're closed until Tuesday and I'd like to get the numbers sorted and the correct parts delivered. I would hate to receive the kit and have an incorrect bearing issue again.
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