XM1027 - CUCV Crew Cab Build

[Another Ahab]

About 400lbs was packing, three 450Amp alternators (about 13kW each - one for truck, one for aux generator on future trailer build, one spare), one MATV MRAP engine cooling assembly (radiator, 2x air conditioner condensers, engine intercooler, and an oil cooler), and two MATV MRAP air conditioner evaporator assemblies (fans, evaporators, plumbing, etc.).

Not a bad haul for what I paid - leaving positive feedback for CBR Metalworks!!

 

[tim292stro]

So this week I will begin documenting the tear down of the "new" engine. I have it properly staged/blocked in the garage where it will be worked on.



I have to pull the front gear train, power steering pump (on gear train), injection pump (on gear train), flywheel housing, water pump, head, original turbo, exhaust manifold... probably a week of evening work (after day-job, before heading home to family). From there I get the block looked-at/blessed by a shop and the bottom end re-done, when that comes back I put on a new head, a new flywheel housing (SAE #2), new flywheel, new gear train housing, injection pump, high-flow power steering with separate hydro-boost pump (single reservoir), new water pump and paint it up. Then it gets shrink wrapped after a ground hop test, until the rest of the truck is ready to go.

 

[jdknech]

I might have missed it, but what trans are you using with the SAE2 bell housing?

 

[tim292stro]

Yeah, it's spread out over the whole thread: Eaton Fuller FSO-8406A, 6-speed, 0.78:1 over-drive, synchromeshed, input rating of 860 ft-lbs torque.

First mention in post #26 was going to be a FSO-6406 with me swapping out the parts to convert it to an FSO-8406 (input shaft, input bearings).

Next mention was post #28 where the original salvage yard pulled the wrong transmission making my search start again.

Then there was a lull while I looked for a new source, which I finally found - next mention was post #126 where I was going to pick up the transmission (an actual FSO-8406A, not one converted, at the end of post), and then post #131 where I pictured the transmission in my Toyota at the shop where I picked it up in Fresno.

I think that was the last mention until now.

The 6BT 5.9L Cummins is adaptable to any transmission due to its bolt-on and inter-changable flywheel housing, the SAE #2 version I purchased with a driver's side starter mount is pictured in post #59. The flywheel housing on the 6BT matches the hole layout on the 4BT, so together the two engines are probably the single easiest diesel to retrofit into any other vehicle, I like the balance of the inline-6 better though. Options abound.

 

[jdknech]

Yeah, it's spread out over the whole thread: Eaton Fuller FSO-8406A, 6-speed, 0.78:1 over-drive, synchromeshed, input rating of 860 ft-lbs torque.

First mention in post #26 was going to be a FSO-6406 with me swapping out the parts to convert it to an FSO-8406 (input shaft, input bearings).

Next mention was post #28 where the original salvage yard pulled the wrong transmission making my search start again.

Then there was a lull while I looked for a new source, which I finally found - next mention was post #126 where I was going to pick up the transmission (an actual FSO-8406A, not one converted, at the end of post), and then post #131 where I pictured the transmission in my Toyota at the shop where I picked it up in Fresno.

I think that was the last mention until now.

The 6BT 5.9L Cummins is adaptable to any transmission due to its bolt-on and inter-changable flywheel housing, the SAE #2 version I purchased with a driver's side starter mount is pictured in post #59. The flywheel housing on the 6BT matches the hole layout on the 4BT, so together the two engines are probably the single easiest diesel to retrofit into any other vehicle I like the ballance of the inline-6 better though). Options abound.

Sorry about that! I've been following your thread, just forgot that part.. And yes, the 4bt, and 6bt seem to be the 2 most popular retrofitting engines out there.. Anyways, the build is looking awesome! Hope everything with the frame stretch pans out, that would make this build over the top!

 

[tim292stro]

Sorry about that! I've been following your thread, just forgot that part...

No worries, don't read my above reply as annoyance, I was just trying to be very complete!

I'm happy to answer questions about this project in this thread, even ones that the inquiring party may believe is "dumb" - please ask away, I treat all questions equally well

 

[BleedDemon]

Are the 4BT and 6BT still produced in crate form anywhere?

 

[tim292stro]

I honestly don't know. I would be suprised if they didn't, but for this build getting one from that specific year was important for emissions in California AND not needing a cat or computer.

[EDIT:] Using my Google-fu, I found at least one place that is offering crate engines: http://www.agkits.com/cummins-6b-6bt-6bta-5-9l-engine-long-block.aspx#.VC440RZ0aPI [/EDIT]

 

[tim292stro]

So the weeknights were a bust but I managed a few hours today...

Got the flex-plate off the crank:



I got the Dodge flywheel housing off the block:



Pulled the turbo and exhaust manifold:



Pulled the power steering pump and the left over crap from the transmission cooler:




So now all I have left on the block is the oil filter, oil heat exchanger, water pump, IP, and the front gear train (and the head with its parts). Also still have the original frame and cross-member attached but I'm using it for stability - got it standing on five points plus the engine hoist.



Probably won't be able to touch it much tomorrow, but we'll see. I'd like to get the gear train next or pull the head - just to get it closer.

 

[tim292stro]

Condensers came (all brand new-in-box. One is for the truck, one for the S-250 shelter project, and one spare. For the price I had to get three - I'll likely never see these for sale separate from a full RedDot kit again.

The one for the truck will be mounted on the roof over the rear row of seating to keep it out of the engine's cooling-air-stream, and the A/C compressor/dryer/accumulator components will be mounted behind the rear seat (in the extended cab space). The evaporator core will be mounted inside the dashboard along with a new heater core - a secondary heater core will be mounted in the center console for the rear passengers to mess with (separate controls). This way I free up a bunch of space in the engine compartment for things I need to cram in there...


Speaking of which, have you seen the size of the 28V/470Amp MRAP alternators?!?!?

This (which I again have three of, thanks to CBR-Metalworks), will go under the hood on the passenger side of the engine - I have to use an exhaust manifold that turns the turbo down a ways so that I can mount this over the turbo between the engine and the air-filter box. It weighs about 100lbs, so I also need to make a custom bracket to take the load off the engine block so I don't crack any cast iron.


The lower turbo required that I also remote the oil filter - I have the kit for that, it will be accessible from inside the front passenger fender, mounted to the bottom of the passenger-side battery bank tray, a cover will protect the filter from rocks tossed by the front tire while driving. I also have a oil drain valve that will be plumbed so that you don't have to remove the under-armor for the engine to service it.


The engine mounts for this truck will look something like a marine engine mount style for the Cummins - I will be using 6-mounting points to the frame (two forward, two mid-block, and two on the flywheel housing). I can use softer engine mounts this way (distributed wight over 3x the mount points) to reduce more structure borne vibration - this will also be important since I will be mounting the roll-cage to the chassis, so any vibration the drive-train transmits to the frame will be transmitted to the whole body as well (I'm thinking about the risk of metal fatigue here).

Everything is interrelated in these systems...

 

[Another Ahab]

... I can use softer engine mounts this way (distributed wight over 3x the mount points) to reduce more structure borne vibration - this will also be important since I will be mounting the case to the chassis, so any vibration the drive-train transmits to the frame will be transmitted to the whole body as well (I'm thinking about the risk of metal fatigue here).

Want a lesson in vibration reduction:

- The USN "wrote the book".

Almost everything -and I mean EVERYTHING- on a sub has vibration isolators ("Run Silent Run Deep").

 

[tim292stro]

...Want a lesson in vibration reduction:

- The USN "wrote the book"...

I used to run a recording studio. I know, my library at home has a shelf an a half (about 6 linear feet) dedicated to sound/vibration control books (aviation, structure, marine, process, etc...). I'm well read on the topic - I'm pretty sure I have a few Navy authored MIL-STD docs too in PDF form .

 

[tim292stro]

Most of my project time has been taken up sharing Halloween festivities with my kids. I got a bit more taken off the engine, but no new pictures. I did pick up a York 210 to convert into an on-board air compressor. This should remove the compressor below the bed (freeing up space for the rear/center fuel tank).

 

[tim292stro]

The wife was nice enough to sacrifice herself to two kids for a few hours so I could make some more headway after Halloween.

Pulled the old lift pump:


Pulled the fuel lines:


Pulled the valve covers:


Pulled the water pump and fan/pulley:


The oil filler neck and damper/crank-pulley:


The rocker arms and head bolts:


And the head:


I got a look in all of the cylinders for the first time since I bought the engine and I am a very happy guy. None of the pistons are burned up:
1
2
3
4
5
6

Also I can still see the original hone marks on the cylinder walls:

It's the original bore size and.... NO SCORING!!! This block is a winner so far

The #5 cylinder looks like it had some valve seals leak and probably had some blow-by, so it probably smoked (hazed) when it ran last:


Everything got a coat of preservation oil (water displacing) so I don't F-up the cylinders while I wait for the next time slot:



Then I bagged the top of the block to keep crap out of it:


That sucked up my time for today, sorry for the trickle but it's what I get to work with .

 

[llong66]

Hi, I will admit right off I have not read your whole thread, but I did see you mentioned insur. If you have not found anything yet, you might try Grudny World Wide. They are a collector car company and will insure lots of different/custom projects. I used them for my vette and they are VERY reasonable. Its a cash value policy meaning that you pick what you want it insured for, and they work out the payment. I was going to use them for my M1008 since its a former MV and kind of a collector item. Part of the process is sending in pics of the vehicle. I have a tool box on mine and the first thing they said is they don't insure trucks w took boxes, I told them it would be coming off, then they called me back and said they don't insure trucks with "push bars" I told them it was not a push bar but a brush guard and part of what made it what it is. They had their adjuster call me back and said they were unwilling to insure it. I was really surprised! With yours being a custom project like it is, you might have better luck. If you need contact info, just PM me and I will give you the numbers I have.

 

[Another Ahab]

Hi, I will admit right off I have not read your whole thread, but I did see you mentioned insur. If you have not found anything yet, you might try Grudny World Wide. I have a tool box on mine and the first thing they said is they don't insure trucks w took boxes, I told them it would be coming off, then they called me back and said they don't insure trucks with "push bars" I told them it was not a push bar but a brush guard and part of what made it what it is. If you need contact info, just PM me and I will give you the numbers I have.

Curious the reason behind that (the tool box):

- Too much temptation for theft, and so too much liability?

Wonder if the adjustor offered an explanation.

 

[tim292stro]

...but I did see you mentioned insurance...

I have USAA. Without a doubt, the best insurance company I ever dealt with. It's funny having a State Farm/All State agent excitedly asking what insurance company I use in the hope that they might steal me away, only to watch their excitement vanish with a depressed "Oh..." when I mention USAA.

I am a Navy brat, and my dad was an officer before he retired, so I got the benefit of USAA before they opened it up to all military personnel and their families both current and former. The part above I should explain I was interested if they would insure it at all, but they were immediately more interested if my rate would change (as if CAN was not even a question, just classification of HOW). I did throw a curve at them in 2003 when I bought a 40' transit bus for a bus/camper conversion, but they didn't even flinch.

USAA was pretty simple to deal with, just took a little time to make sure it was kosher - and this might be a step others miss if they modify their vehicles, so I thought it prudent to document. I like to have my ducks in a row before marching them into battle - less to shoot at.

That said, I'm still chasing down the body/frame shop issue for the stretch itself - that's taken much more time than the insurance question. Other things like engine rebuilding and axle work can be done in the mean time so that's my focus. That and the other two projects (S-250 and FOBIC) which aren't so much a time but a money issue.

 

[Another Ahab]

I have USAA.

I did throw a curve at them in 2003 when I bought a 40' transit bus for a bus/camper conversion, but they didn't even flinch.

Love to see that, 292! Ever post that here in "My Other Vehicles" or some Forum like that?

Would be a gas to check out that build.

 

[tim292stro]

I haven't really started that build other than basic tear down of the rotting stuff. Killed the mold and rust and put it in "preservation mode" until such a time as I have a house .

Please, just Tim - the "292" came from a late 1990's problem with user name lengths on many of the early BBS'es where user names and passwords were limited to 8 characters (stupid, but good for saving expensive storage space). Common practice if your preferred user name was taken was to pad it with numbers - so I picked a just announced standard SMTPE-292M that I was fond of, which was the first digital transport over a single coaxial cable that could transmit HD video (720p or 1080i). Now just to keep the forum memberships straight I keep using it, while my email addresses have moved beyond 8 characters and I now have my {firstname}.{lastname}@{domain}. I managed to get there first for most of them, then just bought a domain for myself to not have that problem any more.

Wow a tangent/drift...

 

[llong66]

I've had the time to read through a lil more of your thread. I saw where you were talking about water cooling LED light assemblies. Have you looked into peltier coolers? I did some work with astro photo cameras and early CCD chips, which need to be cooled to used in astro work and they are very interesting units!