M35 fuel shut off issue

[sardillim]

Looking for some help with the fuel shut off on my M35 multifuel.Like so many fuel related posts this one starts like most of them.The truck has been sitting for about 3 months.I tried to start it last weekend and found it was not getting fuel. I was hoping to have it running for tomorrow because I need to put it on a trailer and bring it to CT DMV for a vin verification that can only be done at 2 dmv stations in the stateTuesday –Friday 9am to 3 pm Good I love this state!!AnywayI have fuel pressure fromthe lift pump to the injector pump but no fuel to the injectors.I removed the cover for the shut off valve and I discovered that although the fuel shut off lever on the dash was in the run or open position the valve is still closed and not allowing fuel to pass.With the shut offdisconnected I manually moved the valve to the open position and reinstalled the cover.The engine now starts but runs awayand I have no control over the throttle.Thankfully the fuel shutoff will still closed the valve and kill the engine.Does anybody have any idea what’s going on here?


Mike

 

[Warthog]

Your shutoff rod in the IP is sticking. We see it all the time.

Remove the cover again, remove the safety wire from the two screw. Carefully remove the clip holding the rod on. Remove the two screws and gently pull the rod lever out. Be very careful to not loose the small pin at the end of the rod.

Spray cleaner in the hole and make sure the keyway moves freely. Also clean the rod.

Reassemble making sure the small pin is engaged in the keyway.

we have posted pictures many times. I will see if I can find them.

 

[Warthog]

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?78640-stuck-in-full-throttle-multi

 

[gimpyrobb]

I agree with what he said.

 

[sardillim]

Thanks for the help Warthog. I followed your advice but still not able to get the engine running. The shut off rod was stuck and I was able to get it move freely so that the spring will move the lever as it should. I have dis assembled and re assembled the parts several times making sure that I have done so correctly. During each disassembly I was getting fuel dripping from the shaft indicating the fuel is getting to the IP. The one thing I did notice is that in the IP manual TP 9-2910-226-34 page 81 they show item A that appears to be on the end of the shut off rod. This piece is not on the end of my fuel rod, there is a hole in the end of the pump rod but that's it. is it possible this piece did not come out with the rod and still in the IP ?

Mike

 

[Warthog]

The tip is required to make the shutoff work. Use a mirror and see if the tip is in the hole.

 

[Jeepsinker]

It is either still stuck in the shutoff collar ( highly unlikely at this point) or it has fallen down in the cavity below. You may need to remove the hydraulic head to fetch it. It looks almost like a super tiny little hammer.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I just had to work on one yesterday.
The first pic shows the order it goes together. The second pic shows the corrosion I couldn't polish off the shaft.

 

[RAYZER]

Also, I see where the op mentioned fuel leaking from the shaft area, check and make sure the shaft oring is sealing properly.
The "tiny hammer" can be tricky to line up to the fuel plate slot and then you wonder if it's seated, if you take the fuel line fitting out of the front of the hydraulic head you can look down in the hole (45°) and see the fuel plate move when assembled properly.
Might as well replace those hh orings while your in there!

 

[RAYZER]

http://www.jatonkam35s.com/DeuceTechnicalManuals/TM9-2910-226-34.PDF
This might help.

 

[Floridianson]

What are we smoking cause to me it looks like a tiny chisel. Also pass it around.

 

[Keith_J]

A dab of grease will help keep alignment of the parts when assembling.

 

[Warthog]

The o-ring is a #12

 

[gimpyrobb]

A dab of grease will help keep alignment of the parts when assembling.

I have actually had this trap air and not allow the pin to go all the way in its hole.

 

[Keith_J]

I have actually had this trap air and not allow the pin to go all the way in its hole.

Degrease the parts, then assemble. Then put the dab of grease on it and slightly pull the little pin thingy, it sucks a bit of the grease in, then it stays in place.

 

[gimpyrobb]

That makes sense.

 

[sardillim]

Success !!! File this one under “better to be lucky than good” I was able to retrieve the pin by fishing around with a magnet. Positioning the pin so it aligns with the valve was tricky, I could not feel any difference in resistance when the pin was correctly aligned. What I did notice is that when everything is assembled correctly the lever (without the rod attached) will only move from 3 o’clock to 9 o’clock. After everything was put back together the engine fired and all is well. Thanks to everybody for the help and tips.

 

[Keith_J]

Ah, I forgot about range of motion check. It is in the TM, if I recall. The same type of injection pump control is used on MEP 002 and 003 military generators, I had one stick and was able to remove the control lever and free it without pulling the pump. All while observing with a small dental mirror as it is buried on the side of the engine. On the multifuel engine, it is downright simple.

 

[jasonjc]

Great thread!! Lots of good info. I had to do this for my M36A2 that's been sitting for 10-15years. I tried to start it a year ago and would not start. I remember this thread and did not want to mess. with it where it was (out in the woods). So got truck moved (tow bar) closer to the shop. Got it all a part cleaned and back together , mostly. If I tighten the two bolts that hold the "U" shaped bar , it locks up. I left it lose (as tight as I could) and tested it. Truck started right up after sitting 10-15 year. Starts and stops as it should.

But the bolts are not tight. Any idea on what's wrong? I used a new O-ring , out of a cheap kit.

 

[Just another Joe]

The tip is required to make the shutoff work. Use a mirror and see if the tip is in the hole.

Any idea what would cause the tip to break off while running and leave the little hammer end in the

I just had to work on one yesterday.
The first pic shows the order it goes together. The second pic shows the corrosion I couldn't polish off the shaft.

just went through this process. Truck fired and shut down correctly. Drove about 1/8 mile and it broke the tip off the tiny hammer. After installing a new tip it does not move freely anymore. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.