Reconnection Rotary switch backwards?

[hurst01]

When I last ran my MEP-002 last year before my injector pump quit, the voltage output was fine then it quit having an output. Without moving any of the switches I tried it again twice with no output then my injector pump stuck. I finally got around to building an injector pump and got it running again but still no power output. With the Reconnection Rotary Switch set to 120-240 single phase and the Ammeter-Voltmeter transfer switch set to L3-L0 single phase, I get absolutely no power output.
However, it will put out 208 Volts, and 238 volts with the Ammeter-Voltage transfer switch in any of the 3 phase positions. . I can adjust the voltage and it jumps to 280 with nothing in between. I can put the Reconnection Switch in the 208-3 Phase position with the Ammeter-Voltage transfer switch in the L3-L0 single phase position and I get a reading on the voltmeter, adjustable up to 280 volts (approximately, can't remember for sure). I took a DVOM and checked between the lugs LO to L1 and get 120 Volts. Between lugs L0 and L3 I get 120 Volts. Between L1 and L3 I get 240 volts. Between L0 and L2 I get 5 volts or less.
This is a bit confusing. Since having trouble with the Reconnection switch getting stuck a couple of years ago I never turn or fool with it. When it stuck a couple years back I had to loosen the mounting screws and the Reconnection switch would then turn. I had no wires loose at all. It seems that the Reconnection Switch is working backwards. Any ideas?
Looking through the -34, I found a paragraph in a couple of different places that says the following:
"WARNING! When selecting position 120, 1 PH unit is in two wire configuration. A situation can/may exist in allowing a double fault to occur. To eliminate this possibility the Reconnection Switch will be rewired by using an AWG #4 wire jumper between terminals #L0 and #6 of section g." ??????

 

[hurst01]

MEP002 no output on single phase

Last year I had an episode with my MEP002 where it quit producing power in the single phase positions of 120, 120/240. I restarted it several times then my Injector Pump went out. I recently built a IP and got it started again. I get no power output in the single phase position on 120 or 240 at all. It will produce power in the 3 phase positions. I can switch the Reconnection Switch to the 208V 3 PH and the Ammeter-Voltmeter Transfer Switch to the single phase position and I get 120 and 240 volts on the meter and the lugs. About 5 volts on the L0 to L2 lug with my DVOM.

At first, I thought the Reconnection Switch was screwed up but now I am doubting it. Can someone offer some ideas? I read something on another thread where someone was talking about a CVT. What is a CVT? I am concerned about flipping the breaker to power my house not knowing for sure if I am producing single phase or 3 phase.
Thanks for any help.

 

[rustystud]

Last year I had an episode with my MEP002 where it quit producing power in the single phase positions of 120, 120/240. I restarted it several times then my Injector Pump went out. I recently built a IP and got it started again. I get no power output in the single phase position on 120 or 240 at all. It will produce power in the 3 phase positions. I can switch the Reconnection Switch to the 208V 3 PH and the Ammeter-Voltmeter Transfer Switch to the single phase position and I get 120 and 240 volts on the meter and the lugs. About 5 volts on the L0 to L2 lug with my DVOM.

At first, I thought the Reconnection Switch was screwed up but now I am doubting it. Can someone offer some ideas? I read something on another thread where someone was talking about a CVT. What is a CVT? I am concerned about flipping the breaker to power my house not knowing for sure if I am producing single phase or 3 phase.
Thanks for any help.

I would still look at the reconnection switch. If you have to, take it apart and clean it up. The last time I lost a leg in single phase 240Volt on my MEP-002A it was due to the reconnection switch being dirty and not making a good contact. This has come up many times before.

 

[hurst01]

Hi rustystud, You seem to know quite a bit about the MEPs. I considered taking it apart but it looks fairly complicated, most likely because it has a butt-load of wires. It stuck on me and would not switch a couple of years ago and I loosened the screws holding the switch to the panel and it freed up. After I got it back to the 120-240 single phase position I never moved it again. I was fearing that it might be the AC voltage regulator.
Guess I am going to have to bite the bullet and take the reconnection switch off.

 

[dependable]

I just replied on smokstak to the second post here, which is the same as the one you put up on the Stak. 120/240 is off L1 &L3, L2 is not used for that voltage. Your first post here is kind of confusing, do you mean that you are getting power output on meters but will not take load? Your readings between L1 & L3 should be 240V.

 

[Triple Jim]

I took a DVOM and checked between the lugs LO to L1 and get 120 Volts. Between lugs L0 and L3 I get 120 Volts. Between L1 and L3 I get 240 volts. Between L0 and L2 I get 5 volts or less.

Assuming you want 120/240 single phase, there might be an argument for leaving it that way and not worrying about what the switch knob says, since it's working correctly. But is there any chance something simply rotated out of position, like maybe the knob itself, so what it points to is rotated from what it should really be pointed at?

 

[hurst01]

I just replied on smokstak to the second post here, which is the same as the one you put up on the Stak. 120/240 is off L1 &L3, L2 is not used for that voltage. Your first post here is kind of confusing, do you mean that you are getting power output on meters but will not take load? Your readings between L1 & L3 should be 240V.

I listed the voltages that I got by using a DVOM at the lugs inside the lid on the top left. It also shows the voltage on the volt meter on the front panel. I am hesitant to put a load on it not knowing for sure if it is single or 3 PH. Last winter I had it running in the 120-220 single phase on the reconnection switch and the Ammeter-Voltmeter switch was in L3-L0 1 phase position which should produce 120/240 single PH power. It then suddenly lost output. I restarted it about 3 times then my injector pump went out.

I checked the voltage at the lugs with my DVOM. With the reconnection switch in the 120-208 Volts 3 PH position, L0 to L1 was 119 Volts, L0 to L3 was 119 Volts, L1 to L3 was 238 Volts. I just mentioned that the voltage from L0 to L2 was 5 volts or less because I figured someone would ask if I checked it. Normally, when the generator would be producing 3 PH, there should be a reading from L0 to L2 of more than 4 or 5 volts. I have not had a load on the generator.

Triple Jim, You are thinking about the same way I was but I want to be sure that I don't blow the crap out of my flat screen TV. That would not go over well with my wife. If the knob was off I would not be able to get it in all three indicated positions. It just seems strange that it would have an output on 3 PH but not in 1 PH. I have TMs -12 and a -34. I can't even find a mention in them about losing output in single phase, it is either there or not.

My reconnection switch locked up a couple years back when I was running it through the positions. I loosened the mounting screws holding it to the panel and it suddenly got to where it would turn back to single PH and I tightened it up and left it there. As I get older and more hard miles on me, I am finding it more difficult to take the cold weather. I have had three heart attacks, three open heart surgeries and two small strokes. We were expecting snow and 12 degree temperatures and I rushed out and installed the injector pump. I aligned the PC marks but forgot to use the 1/8" wire to align the IP. I am really amazed that it runs. Next half-way decent day, I will get out and re-align the IP. Did I mention having all these miles on me sucks?

I hope this explains the situation a bit better. I am hoping that someone can point me in the right direction. Thanks for the replies.

 

[Isaac-1]

If you can get to it you can probably measure the resistance across the various terminals of the switch without disconnecting anything and see if there is an internal fault in the switch. You should probably use the ohm values for this and not just look for continuity.

 

[rustystud]

The easiest thing to do would be to change out the entire switch box if you have access to a good one. If not then I would remove that switch and clean it or eliminate it entirely . If your going to fix it take lots of pictures of the wiring and mark it with colored markers . That's how I did mine last time. The last time mine went out, I hadn't moved the switch in over 3 years ! It still was dirty ! How, I don't know ! but there you go.

 

[dependable]

Switching the whole box would be the easiest approach, replacing or re wiring switch is very difficult, I have an 003 that came with a miswired switch that cost me dozens of hours trying to sort out, and I had another unit next to it to look at. If you eliminate the switch and hard wire to 120/240, you will have to go with a different voltage regulator. It has been done and posted about here.

I see you know about loosening the switch plate to free up the switch. One other thing to check the wires on your reconnection switch. I had an 002 with a stuck switch, and in the process of taking it out to loosen plate (but not disconnecting wires), I discovered several loose terminal screws, including one of the main T wires completely off.

 

[hurst01]

Very interesting! I didn't know the reconnection switch was so troublesome. Does this sound as if the reconnection switch is the problem or possibly something else? At first I thought it might be the AC voltage regulator. Earlier today i went out and fired the generator up just for the heck of it. It seemed to be a bit sluggish starting and puffed a good bit of black smoke for a few seconds. I am definitely going to have to pull the injector pump and re-time it. It is probably a 1/4 turn off. I have built several injector pumps for other people just for the cost of the parts. I have confidence in the IP but I was in a rush and forgot to align it before installing it.
With a little help from you guy's on the voltage output and getting my injector pump re-timed I might be ready for winter. I don't have access to another switch box without borrowing one from a friends generator, I don't think that is going to happen because it would be too much to ask. This is a great site!

 

[LuckyDog]

... With the reconnection switch in the 120-208 Volts 3 PH position, L0 to L1 was 119 Volts, L0 to L3 was 119 Volts, L1 to L3 was 238 Volts. I just mentioned that the voltage from L0 to L2 was 5 volts or less because I figured someone would ask if I checked it. ...

That is the correct measurement for 120/240 split single phase.
Sounds like the switch handle has twisted. Might you have twisted it back when the switch was frozen?

120 - 208 3PH should read:
L1-L3 = 208V
L1-L2 = 208V
L2-L3 = 208V
L0-L1 = 120V
L0-L2 = 120V
L0-L3 = 120V

 

[hurst01]

It was putting out 120/240 in the correct position and then suddenly quit. I hadn't touched the reconnection switch. There is only three positions for the switch and the handle points to each one as you turn it. In the 120/240 single phase position there is no output at all. If the handle was twisted it would point to the bottom at one time or another. I think rustystud is correct with possibly a dirty switch or it is probably bad.
I am mostly concerned about using it like it is because the genset does not put out clean filtered power. There is supposed to be some decent weather coming in in a couple of days, I am going to have to make time to work on it.

 

[LuckyDog]

... There is only three positions for the switch and the handle points to each one as you turn it. In the 120/240 single phase position there is no output at all. If the handle was twisted it would point to the bottom at one time or another...

Wow, you are correct and that is strange

I think rustystud is correct with possibly a dirty switch or it is probably bad.
I am mostly concerned about using it like it is because the genset does not put out clean filtered power. There is supposed to be some decent weather coming in in a couple of days, I am going to have to make time to work on it.

I am not sure I agree with the "does not put out clean filtered power". It is not filtered, correct, but it is an analog generator not an inverter generator. The power this puts out is just like the power companies power. I have never worried about it cleanliness.

NOW, having said that, I agree 100% with not wanting to use it to drive big ticket electronics until it is working correctly. If 3PH power is acting like split phase for some unknown reason, how could you be sure it won't just jump to some other setting.

Good luck and let us know what you find.