Alaska cold weather power steering leaks. Have questions

[m1garand_man]

So have a M1009 that I have used off and on over the last 5 years as a daily driver. I recently moved up to Fairbanks, AK from central MT and I have noticed some new leaks I have never had before. The clamp fittings on the uppermost power steering line are leaking. I am guessing that line is the high pressure side of the power steering system that pressurizes the brake system. It is definitely leaking from the clamp fittings and not a loose connection on the threaded fittings.

Item 18 is the main culprit but I might as well replace item 9, 10 and 15. Item's 10 and 15 are simple hose and clamps.



The daily temp around here has been in the 10's for the last month and a half and while I park the truck in a 65* garage at night during the day it sits outside.

My questions are
1. is it common for the system to leak when there is as great a daily temperature change from where the vehicle is stored day vs night?
2. if so is this something that normally goes away when it gets warm out? (It had never leaked before)
3. If I need to replace this and the other three power steering lines where I can get some reliable replacements that won't leak day 1. I would love to find some NOS ones but that will probably be an impossible task and cost $$$. I would order some used ones from Boyce but the issue is this is enough work to change and with bleeding and everything that I would be just a little PO'd if it just kept leaking after all that work and money spent. Does anyone know of any quality original design replacement parts? I mainly want the metal hard line portion of the tubes to have the same routing as the originals.
4. Aside from the lines and hydraulic fluid what other parts do I need to do the work? Any O rings or any thing like that?

Thanks

 

[cannonfoddertfc]

Rubber gaskets, orings, hoses, etc all leak when you get temp drops and then stop went it warms up again. It usually only affects pressurized components like hydraulics but even a gravity fed system will leak if the drop creates enough pressure. One of the best fixes for low pressure hydraulic lines (power steering/brakes) is to replace rubber hoses/clamps with steel braided Teflon hoses with threaded ends like the ones used on aircraft or forklifts. Just beware if you have an aircraft shop make them, tell them to use MS fittings because the seat bevel on AN fittings will be 32deg(aviation only) instead of 45deg(everything else) so it will leak under pressure. Alternately, you can make a complete (fitting to fitting) hard line using 6061 aluminum tubing. 6061 can be bent by hand (carefully). Another alternative, remove and toss the rubber section, add a threaded fitting and flare the remaining hard line, attach another hard line or a steel braided hose from existing hardline to next threaded fitting.

My suggestion, remove the line in question at the threaded fittings, take it to a forklift or tractor repair shop (NAPA auto parts store sometimes do them also) and have them manufacture the line end to end. If you go hardline all the way, you can make your own if you have a flaring tool (think auto parts store loaner tools). A tube bender isn't a bad idea either. If you decide to make your own and need a walkthrough, PM me. I made these for years on army aircraft.

 

[m1garand_man]

Rubber gaskets, orings, hoses, etc all leak when you get temp drops and then stop went it warms up again. It usually only affects pressurized components like hydraulics but even a gravity fed system will leak if the drop creates enough pressure. One of the best fixes for low pressure hydraulic lines (power steering/brakes) is to replace rubber hoses/clamps with steel braided Teflon hoses with threaded ends like the ones used on aircraft or forklifts. Just beware if you have an aircraft shop make them, tell them to use MS fittings because the seat bevel on AN fittings will be 32deg(aviation only) instead of 45deg(everything else) so it will leak under pressure. Alternately, you can make a complete (fitting to fitting) hard line using 6061 aluminum tubing. 6061 can be bent by hand (carefully). Another alternative, remove and toss the rubber section, add a threaded fitting and flare the remaining hard line, attach another hard line or a steel braided hose from existing hardline to next threaded fitting.

My suggestion, remove the line in question at the threaded fittings, take it to a forklift or tractor repair shop (NAPA auto parts store sometimes do them also) and have them manufacture the line end to end. If you go hardline all the way, you can make your own if you have a flaring tool (think auto parts store loaner tools). A tube bender isn't a bad idea either. If you decide to make your own and need a walkthrough, PM me. I made these for years on army aircraft.

I know vehicles can be leaky when its cold especially if you park inside at nigh. Only issue is my OCD and the army instilled desire to make everything perfect all the time. The rear main on the truck also likes to leak in the winter and after very long drives in the summer.

I like the idea of having a forklift shop rebuild the existing lines. This will probably be the best and cheapest option. I'll have to fight the urge to stay authentic to the original truck and get the better steel braided lines.

I do have one issue for clarification. What do the letters in MS and AN fittings mean? Do I understand you correctly that the fittings on the truck should have a 45* bevel?

 

[Drock]

My philosophy with these 30 year old trucks is this, "When in doubt replace". Especially if it's ah rubber part. If yours are the originals then I would replace them just for that fact alone. Remember these lines not only run the steering but the brakes as well. All that being said, I had a newer minivan that would get a slight power steering leak in the winter. So I added a shot glass full of bars leaks and it never did it again....Here's ah link....http://www.walmart.com/msharbor/ip/...75458192&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=81468039152&veh=sem

 

[Lebowski]

ATP AT-205 Re-Seal is a good product I've had luck with in sealing leaks (rear main seals, valve cover, steering racks). Lots of big rig shops use it. You can find it at many automotive places. Might be worth a try and buy you some time. Lots of reviews so judge for yourself. But yes, as suggested above, best to replace those leaky things in the long haul.

 

[Skinny]

This is funny, there is another thread with leaky power steering hoses which originates from the crimps and the suggestions are almost opposite. Everything in the PS/PB system are high pressure except for the one return line coming from the steering gear to the pump reservoir. I like the idea of making them with MS fittings and higher quality lines. I just replaced mine with off the shelf stuff which worked fine but I like the custom line route and being able to choose what material the hose is made out of.

 

[cannonfoddertfc]

I do have one issue for clarification. What do the letters in MS and AN fittings mean? Do I understand you correctly that the fittings on the truck should have a 45* bevel?

AN and MS are just two different styles of fittings. AN will be beveled (flared). If you have AN (flared) fittings on your truck, they will be a 45deg bevel.
MS is just like a pipe fitting (think plumbing in your house).

When talking about staying "authentic" keep in mind that this is a military vehicle...made by the lowest bidder...maintained by lazy privates....authentic may not actually be the best. Improvements can be made under the hood so to speak without losing the MV appeal and the average person wont even know the difference. Some of the folks here might but I would bet that even most of them wouldn't notice a different hose or tube unless you painted it bright orange with a big sign saying look here.

 

[Drock]

I bought my lines from advanced and they fit perfectly. I never bothered to look, or care for that matter if the "looked stock", my truck is a daily driver/work truck so originality takes a back seat to functionality for me and my truck.

 

[m1garand_man]

I bought my lines from advanced and they fit perfectly. I never bothered to look, or care for that matter if the "looked stock", my truck is a daily driver/work truck so originality takes a back seat to functionality for me and my truck.

Could you post a link?

 

[Drock]

Here yah go, not really that expensive, cheaper then ah tow bill anyway...........http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...ose&vehicleIdSearch=34517&searchedFrom=header