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A3 to A2 Bearing Conversion

rivercreek

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I recently had to do some major repairs to my A3 rear axle (blew out both pinion bearings), and wanted to replace the wheel bearings and seals. After a bit of research, I found that the A3 bearings/seals are VERY expensive and apparently not terribly easy to come by. Having disabled my CTIS system long ago, I decided to remove all of the CTIS components to allow me to use the more readily available and much cheaper A2 bearings and seals. Once I ordered and received the new parts, I was a bit confused as to how to install the rear seal. My SS search didn't produce the required information, so I thought I'd post my experience. After getting some clarification from a very helpful Memphis Equipment Tech Suppport guy (the place I ordered my parts from), it really wasn't too bad of a job. But as they say, a picture is worth a thousand words. The CTIS piece (no idea what it's called) is glued/epoxied? to the spindle. Weird stuff. Very very hard, but brittle. It took a chisel and a decent sized hammer to knock this stuff off. One piece of advice: WEAR SAFETY GLASSES when you're doing this. It flies everywhere. It's all fun and games until someone loses an eye. Once I got the outermost piece uncovered, I found that is was tack-welded in several places. I used a whiz-wheel to grind off the tacks, and another good smack with a hammer and chisel knocked the front piece loose. Once I finished removing all the glue/epoxy, I was able to hit the rear piece with a small hammer and eventually work it of the spindle. This piece has the air line hooked to it that passes through the backing plate. I had previously cut and blocked these air lines further up the line, so I just cut the air line closer to the backing plate to make it easy to slide the assembly out. It took awhile with a roloc wheel to grind all of the glue/epoxy crap off of the spindle, but once done, the new inner seal went on without much difficulty. I used the old race to seat the rear seal onto the spindle, it matches up fairly well. The rest of the job is just like any other axle job. Beat out the old races, beat in the new ones. I did find that it was easier to slide the inner bearing onto the spindle first rather than put it into the inner hub race and then slide the whole assembly on. Other than that, good to go. One side note - maybe someone knows better than I - I'm not sure what the rear seal is actually doing. It's an odd looking seal, and just looking at the hub, I don't see where it actually forms a good seal on the inside of the hub. Hope I didn't do it wrong..... It's clearly stamped "Outside" right on the seal, so that's just what I did. The glued/epoxied parts on the hub had me a bit confused as I said, so hopefully the explanation and photos will make it a bit less confusing for the next guy.
 

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saddamsnightmare

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December 23rd, 2014.

rivercreek:

Congratulations on your repair! Seems like a lot of work to reverse engineer the axles, but then the US CTIS system was never as good as the ones the Russians used on their military trucks, but then they engineered theirs so peasants could work on it.
Hope your conversion works for you, but this is one of the reasons I owned an M35A2 for the reliability and cheap parts.

Merry Christmas!
 

rivercreek

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I was afraid somebody was gonna say that.... I've had this sneaking suspicion myself - BUT it does clearly say "OUTSIDE" on the side that is now outside. So, do you THINK, or you KNOW ? (Fingers crossed here).. :)
 

Recovry4x4

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Its backwards. The rubber portion of the seal seats and seals against the bearing race.
 

clinto

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I was afraid somebody was gonna say that.... I've had this sneaking suspicion myself - BUT it does clearly say "OUTSIDE" on the side that is now outside. So, do you THINK, or you KNOW ? (Fingers crossed here).. :)
It means "this side is outside of the area it's sealing" , i.e. the inside of the hub, where the bearings and grease are, are the inside.

20141207_153415.jpg20141207_154227.jpg20141207_154824.jpg20141208_120746.jpg

I hate to say this, but I can speak for Gimpy, R4x4 and I when I say: We know, we don't think.

I've done a hundred of these. The rubber part faces away from the backing plate, towards the hub and seals against the race an keeps the hub grease in the hub and water/debris out.

The pics above are my personal truck last week.
 

rivercreek

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Berryville, VA
That's one way to look at it, LOL. The other way I can't repeat on here... And here I thought I didn't need any more practice since the figuring out part happened on the R side - the L side was supposed to be the practice side where I already knew exactly what socket sizes I needed! Oh well. Live and learn... :) Glad I posted those pictures, that's for sure. I'd prolly be doing brakes pretty soon otherwise...
 

gringeltaube

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.................... I'm not sure what the rear seal is actually doing. It's an odd looking seal, and just looking at the hub, I don't see where it actually forms a good seal on the inside of the hub....
Once you have it on correctly you will see...

... among other things, that an old/used #3994-cone (-race) makes a good seal-installer tool, but only after some modification: turning it on the lathe to remove about 1 mm where it rests against the spindle's shoulder.



G.
 

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infidel got me

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I wonder if my wife would notice a leg missing off the lawn furniture.

Clinto's seal driver is pretty snazzy in post # 8. Looks to be the same

size as the legs on lawn chair. It will save me buying new cushions.

Where my hacksaw ha ha
 

clinto

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Clinto's seal driver is pretty snazzy in post # 8. Looks to be the same
3" PVC. With an adapter on the seal end and a cap on the driving end.

Warning-I shattered 2 caps during this procedure.

20141207_153648.jpg
 

rtk

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Easy way to get the epoxy off the axle is just give it a LITTLE heat and whack it GENTLY with a BFH and it comes right off . Little clean up with a wire wheel and you are good to go . I guess the genius that came up with this axle deal never figured on the axle getting HOT ! go figure . :grd:
 

gringeltaube

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........ I guess the genius that came up with this axle deal never figured on the axle getting HOT ! go figure . :grd:
It's the "genius" who decided to buy this deal...1000's of these, actually(!), who probably didn't have a clue of what he was getting for the money...


G.
 
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rivercreek

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Berryville, VA
Yeah, I had a clue gringkltaube. Did a lot of homework before I bought it. It was imperative for my purposes to have power steering and a good heater. Very very happy with the truck, 4th year i've owned it- and it hasn't been a yard ornament. Been plowing snow and spreading salt with it since I bought it. Can't knock it even one little bit. I could do without the CTIS, and I have. Other than that, couldn't be happier with it. She's been a very reliable workhorse. This is the first time i've had to pull a rear end apart - failed pinion bearings - and i'm learning as I go as we all do I'm sure. I HAVE moved up to 5 tons for my purpose, but don't regret buying this A3. Thanks for the input everyone. I'll flip the seals and hopefully be good to go for another 4 years at least.
 

gringeltaube

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Glad you are enjoying your truck.
I just hope it's clear that it wasn't exactly you, the end-user MV-enthusiast/ hobbyist I was referring to, with that remark... Someone decided to buy that refurbished, CTIS/epoxy-"upgraded" rear axle long before you.... ;-)


G.
 
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