Glow plug relay issue.....again

[Dirty1]

Glow plug relay issue.....again. Update on post #31

Long story, my truck had a manual switch already installed from the previous owner. They had wired in, what looked to be, a different relay and used a fused (20amp) lead from the rear battery to the momentary switch. That switched lead then went dicrect to the relay.

This worked fine for the last two years so I never changed it. Well, this week I decided to change the glow plugs with AC60s. While changing the glow plugs, I noticed that none of the wellman plugs were swollen. I thought I was lucky. So, new connectors and plugs went on the truck.

I went to to fire the truck up and when I used the momentary switch, I noticed smoke so ing from the glow plug resistors. I stopped what I was doing. I checked everything again and noticed that the fuse was blown.

I took this opportunity to removed the resistor bank and wire up the relay with 12V as described here. I was still blowing fuses. I then changed the relay with the S603 and rewired the switch though the glow plug controller card.

Now it does nothing. No click. There is 12V to the red, orange and pink connectors. Nothing on the light blue lead.

Any insight? I have read as much as I could but am at a loss.


02-01-15 UPDATE on post #31.

 

[Dirty1]

BTW, it is a 85 M1008. Thanks in advance!

 

[doghead]

If you have power on the small pink wire/terminal, you should also have it on the small blue wire terminal(they are internally connected).

I took this opportunity to removed the resistor bank and wire up the relay with 12V as described here. I was still blowing fuses. I then changed the relay with the S603 and rewired the switch though the glow plug controller card.

I do not understand most of this.

Can you post a picture of the wiring or a detailed drawing of what you have added(is not stock).

If your controller card never worked before, what makes you think it will work now?

 

[Dirty1]

Sorry about that. It has been a long day.

What I was trying to say was that I did the glow plug resistor bypass. After doing the bypass, I tried the momentary switch and all it did was blow another fuse. At that point I removed the relay that was in the truck and replaced it with the S-603. This relay was wired with the Orange wires on the bottom terminal, then the pink wire then the light blue and the finally the red wires on the top terminal.

The switch was then rewired using the light blue wire from the relay card. When I turned on the ignition and pressed the switch nothing happened. No click or clunk from the relay. (My old relay would have a loud clunk when activated)

I will try to get a photo up later tonight.

 

[doghead]

The switch was then rewired using the light blue wire from the relay card.

please explain this.

To add a manual push button, you simply ground the blue wire with a push button switch. Is that how you have it wired?

I also am confused about the fuse, but I think I understand that this has been removed now.

 

[Dirty1]

I did remove the fused lead from the battery. The way you described is how I wired it tonight. I spliced in a wire to the light blue wire from the card, to a new switch and then grounded that switch.

The previous owner had wired the switch directly from the battery and then to the relay.

I am am on my wife's ipad. I will go out and take some pictures and upload them on here for you.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

The previous owner had wired the switch directly from the battery and then to the relay.

Sounds like the PO had no clue about how the system is supposed to work. There isn't any reason for a switch connected to the battery & the relay.

Is this the S603 relay you mean?

I'm thinking at this point that the PO wired things in a way that is completely incompatible with the original design, and maybe he did that to overcome some other defect.

so now we have a hybrid (also known as a kludge! ) and don't really know where we are, so the first step is to clearly lay out how things are currently wired.

 

[Westech]

your better off fixing it back to the factory design. I had to replace every inch of the glow plug system on my M1008 and it cost me about 200 bucks.
the control system is a stand along harness and can be found on Ebay or here for 30 ish dollars. The control card can be found here for $80 ish I think.
Dump all that hacked junk and just put the factory system back in place.

 

[Dirty1]

Here is the wire that I have tapped into for the new switch.



Here is how I have my new relay wired. It is the Advanced Auto Parts relay S603.



Here is the old relay that I took out of the truck.



Cheap MS paint for clarity. (Hopefully)




01-03-15 I updated with attached images.

 

[Dirty1]

your better off fixing it back to the factory design. I had to replace every inch of the glow plug system on my M1008 and it cost me about 200 bucks.
the control system is a stand along harness and can be found on Ebay or here for 30 ish dollars. The control card can be found here for $80 ish I think.
Dump all that hacked junk and just put the factory system back in place.View attachment 535005

It may very well come to this. Thanks for the info!

 

[Westech]

looks like all you need is the correct relay and a new card. You already have the harness.

 

[doghead]

Test your light blue wire at the relay with a meter.

Disconnect it first and see if it has continuity to ground when you push your button.

Also, try using a piece of wire, ground the terminal it is on to ground and see if it actuates the relay. Key on.

 

[doghead]

Post pics on our site, rather than use links from photobucket. One of the rules of this site.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Here is how I have my new relay wired. It is the Advanced Auto Parts relay S603.

Looks fine.

Here is the old relay that I took out of the truck.

That was probably okay, if it was working. But better to be sure. I just pulled one like yours (mine is brown) out of mine yesterday, and replaced it with the NAPA ST85. Mine was working fine, I just wanted a new relay because I did the resister bypass. (Finally got around to it! )

Cheap MS paint for clarity. (Hopefully)

Dunno what he was doing, but your's looks good to me.

Now, do like doghead said. Verify your switch is working okay. Then go from there. Once everything is verified and working, you really should consider getting a new card (if that turns out to be bad) from member antennaclimber. 85 bucks.

 

[Warthog]

AntenniaClimber had to raise the price to $95 shipped. Still a bargain for the updated card.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?102176-CUCV-Glow-Plug-Cards

 

[cpf240]

From what I see in the drawing of the PO's wiring, it looks like the relay was being energized with 24v. If so, are you using the same switch? If so, and that switch was not rated for it, it might not be working anymore.

 

[doghead]

If he connected the new relay same as the old one, and pressed the button(when it was wired as it was with 24v supplied to the relay coil), I suspect the coil burned out or the switch burned out.

He did mention there was no voltage at the light blue wire at the relay.

 

[Dirty1]

Post pics on our site, rather than use links from photobucket. One of the rules of this site.

Sorry about that.

I just tried a jumper wire from a ground to the terminal in the relay that the light blue wire goes to. (I removed the light blue wire first) The relay worked. I also saw my wait to start light come on for the first time ever since I have owner the truck.

There seems to to be high impeedence when I tested the light blue wire between the ring terminal and the card. The new switch tested okay. I was not able to find a good ground in the cab. I will clean off a spot and try again.

Thanks again for for all the help and I will keep you posted.

 

[Dirty1]

I cleaned off a good ground. There in continuity between the ground and the switch. There is also continuity between the switch and my new splice to the card. There seems to be a continuity issue between the splice and the relay. Since I am putting a manual bypass a burnt out card should not pose and issue. Right?

 

[doghead]

Correct.

So, you need a good wire to the small terminal, and back to your push button and a good ground.

If that Blue wire tap is new, I suspect it may be the culprit.