dawico
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I did but it all falls apart without access to the WPs. Are those available somewhere or buried in the TMs somewhere?Try following the instructions in the tm?
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I did but it all falls apart without access to the WPs. Are those available somewhere or buried in the TMs somewhere?Try following the instructions in the tm?
No WP needed using the TM 9-2320-272-24-1, Cooling system servicing.When filling cooling system on M939A2 series vehicles, ensure
drainvalve on aftercooler is open. Failure to do so may result in
damage to equipment.
I have that TM and will check it out now. Thank you.Here's the kind of thing you can find(valuable) in the TMs.
No WP needed using the TM 9-2320-272-24-1, Cooling system servicing.
Step by step procedure for filling the coolant(and flushing) is there. By the looks of it, it is not as simple as filling and hoping it works.
We had a member on here a few weeks ago that had that exact problem. His Shutter Stat was presureizing his coolant system and forcing coolant out of his engine. So it is possible.I'm pretty sure the way the shutterstat is built it can't really leak air into the system. Also for what it's worth i had a gasket leak at the thermostat housing and have torn mine apart. Mine has 2 openings for thermostats but only 1 thermostat and a rubber plug factory installed into the other spot. Oh and i had some similar issues as you and i noticed the metal gasket in the radiator cap was cracked and it wasn't the correct psi rating either. New cap from NAPA around $10 fixed my overheating issues.
There is an O-ring under the jam nut on the stem of the thermal capsule where it screws into the shutterstat housing. If that O-ring leaks, it will let pressurized air into the coolant system.I'm pretty sure the way the shutterstat is built it can't really leak air into the system. Also for what it's worth i had a gasket leak at the thermostat housing and have torn mine apart. Mine has 2 openings for thermostats but only 1 thermostat and a rubber plug factory installed into the other spot. Oh and i had some similar issues as you and i noticed the metal gasket in the radiator cap was cracked and it wasn't the correct psi rating either. New cap from NAPA around $10 fixed my overheating issues.
Yup. I had rust colored water for an hour using the hose. I disconnected everything I could and flushed from every direction possible. It was pretty bad with rust. No big chunks of anything though.When you flush it out you need to drain it and then take off the upper radiator hose and stick a water hose in there to really get all the rust and gunk out. I have heard stories off all kinds of yuck and gunk coming out.
I was talking to the auto parts guy and he called a buddy that worked on these for years in the military. We were talking coolant, SCAs, that type of thing. His buddy started with "If we put in more than just water, add whatever you want. It doesn't really matter." Not surprising after I saw all the rust.Also as mentioned above flush, flush, flush. If y'all saw the crud come out of the good looking trucks we have disassembled everyone would be flushing there trucks, I have even thought about flushing my 2012 rebuild.
Not yet. On my list. I am sure it is getting hot though.Are you using an IR gun to confirm the temp?
Yes but what we are saying is don't trust the gage and also you can point it at different areas to determine flowNot yet. On my list. I am sure it is getting hot though.
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